Flavel FDW62 not filling

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  • #99668
    Arngill
    Participant

    Hi we have a Flavel FDW62 Dishwasher not filling. When any program is started, the circulating pump runs but no water is coming into the machine. The solenoid valve is not opening. I have monitored the solenoid valve terminals with a DMM and there is no 230VAC being applied from the control board to the solenoid. As I have a background in electronics repair I have removed it and checked it using an isolating transformer and 230V mains and it clicks in and out quite happily. I am not convinced that the Control PCB is faulty as these are probably the most reliable part of the machine. I have checked the control board and all the components as far as I can tell, are OK. So now I have also removed and tested the drain pump, the circulating pump and the inline 1800W heater and they all work on the bench. Also I can confirm that there are no obstructions in any of the plumbing. There is I believe a test mode but I can find no information on it. If I hold down the reset button while powering up, all digits flash at once, then it sits and displays P3 and P6. Does anyone know how to use this test mode and what the displays mean? I know Beko took over Flavel but I have not asked them for info as it would probably be a waste of time as I am not trade. Any advice welcome as I hate the thought of taking this to the dump. After all aren’t we supposed to be saving the planet and reducing waste?

    #477296
    electrofix
    Moderator

    have you checked the anti flood switch ?

    Dave

    #477297
    Arngill
    Participant

    Hi Dave, thanks for the reply. Yes I checked the antil flood switch with DMM and it opens and closes normally. Not sure why they use three terminals but they certainly switch from open to short when the switch is pressed. What Iwould really like to know are the test functions.
    Cheers Steve

    #477298
    electrofix
    Moderator

    the fill circuit goes through the switch and the other term is direct to the pump

    have you checked wires from valve to board and overflow float to board ?

    Dave

    #477299
    Arngill
    Participant

    Yes…All the connections ohm out as they should. What I would really like to find out is how the diagnostic mode operates. If I hold down reset and power it up it goes into a diagnostic or test mode. fiddling with this I can get the thing to fill, but without knowing how to use the test mode I am fumbling in the dark. Any idea where I can find out how to use this mode? I have trawled the web endlessly but can find nothing. It’s like a state secret.

    #477300
    electrofix
    Moderator

    the information about service mode is not really understandable. does not tell you how to access just gives a list of faults

    they cant even spell mode

    there is a reset procedure that may be worth a try

    Dave

    #477301
    Arngill
    Participant

    Hi Dave thanks I will give this a try.

    #477302
    Arngill
    Participant

    Hi Dave, I just re-read your reply, the part about the list of faults….If I hold down the reset button while powering up, all digits flash at once, then it sits and displays P3 and P6. I wonder is this a fault code? If so does your fault list mention this?
    cheers Steve.

    #477303
    electrofix
    Moderator

    no in a word

    did you try holding function button and programme button as above ?

    Dave

    #477304
    Arngill
    Participant

    Hi Just tried this. Play & Pause flash together as described. Switched off, tried a short cycle. As before, fill solenoid not being told to open by control board. Running out of ideas now. I am seriously thinking control board is faulty as nothing else seems to be. Now looking for replacement dishwasher. Thanks for listening.

    #477305
    electrofix
    Moderator

    the way the system works is as follows

    the live is fed directly to the valve from connection 3 on plug KN2 should be a black wire ( hopefully)

    the neutral is supplied from board connection 10 on plug KN7. This is switched through a triac green wire (hopefully)

    if you have not done so already acertain if you have 240v feed to valve and trace the neutral cable back to board. you should be able to read the coil resistance across the 2 terms.

    if all ok open the board and check tracks and the triacs

    Dave

    #477306
    Arngill
    Participant

    Hi Dave, Well that’s interesting info. I have verified that there is no 240V ACROSS the valve terminals when the cycle starts but I never measured either to ground. I assumed the live was switched by the triac not the neutral…So I will have another crack at it.
    Cheers
    Steve

    #477307
    Arngill
    Participant

    Hi Dave, Dishwasher has been on the back burner for a while due to other things going on however I have just had another look and what I found is that I don’t get any 240V on connection 10 on plug KN7 at all. I have tried with the door switch closed and a program started, still nothing. Opening the board, I get no 5VDC across the RL1 relay coil so it appears it is not being told to close the contacts and supply volts to the valve. The relay itself is fine, with the board on the bench I can switch it with a 5V supply and the contacts close to 0 ohms. It’s protection diode is OK and the driver transistor appears OK ohms wise.
    Can you tell me at what point this relay should close?
    Thanks, Steve

    #477308
    electrofix
    Moderator

    any relay on the board is normally the heater

    I would check continuity fron the bpard to the valve
    you should get low ohms from KN7 10 to valve and Kn2 3 to valve

    you should also be able to read the valve coil by measuring across the 2 wires on the timer

    Dave

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