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Hi
I’m hoping for some suggestions troubleshooting a 6 year old Samsung EcoBubble, model number: WW80J6610CW/EU.
It won’t spin but doesn’t throw up any error codes. It started as an intermittent problem and seemed to work more reliably with larger loads. Now it won’t spin regardless of load. It does get battered with 2 or 3 loads a day.
We’ve tried the motor re-calibrate but it didn’t help.
I know the motor PCB is a weak point, as we’ve already had a couple under warranty; last one just short of two years ago.
Is there anything else I should check first? Is there a good site to make sure I order the correct PCB agianst the model or serial number?I’m generally good at fixing things but this will be my first attempt at appliances. We’ve always ended up replacing them when they broke out of warranty. Somebody told me about this site and I thought I’d give it a go.
Thanks in advance.
you have unfortunately picked a machine with little or no tech info available unless your a Samsung agent
does it spin with no load ?
Dave
Thank you for the reply.
It doesn’t spin regardless of load, spin speed or program; not even during the drum clean cycle. I think it trys to spin, since you can see the drum start to accelerate, but then it just drops back to tumbling.
Based on previous experience, it looks like we’re going to be having a new board every couple of years at approx £200 with the call out charge. That’s equivalent to buying a new one every 5 years. We’re at the point of giving up on Samsung and getting a new one. It’s a shame because, appart from the reliability, It’s a good washer.
What manufacturers are the best for tech info and parts availaiblity? I’ve heard good things about Siemens for both of these, but for the spec we want, they’re out of our price range.
Siemens in another one who wont give out tech info but there is a lot more combined info out there for them. Siemans is part of the BSH group so Bosch, Siemens and Neff are essentially the same machine in different cases
Samsung are much more of a pain. Sealed boards mean we cant repair simple board faults. Lack of technical info and overpriced spare parts make them a no no for meDave
Hey Matlyn,
Did you manage to fix your device?
I’m having a similar issue. Got the machine into test mode and it doesn’t spin at all, just throws up a 3E error.
Some googling indicates it’s either a motor issue or the switchboard. Trying to decide whether to take a punt at ordering a replacement board or just stumping up for a new machine which just seems massively wasteful.
Cheers
We were in the same boat, Samsung support said that it was probably the board rather than the motor (which has a 10 year guarantee). We’d already had them out twice under warranty and decided it wasn’t worth the £200 to replace the board and went for a new washer. It looked complicated trying to find another board and make sure we got the right one. I’ve notice that all the new samsungs only have a 1400 spin rather than 1600, unless you spend a lot more, and wondered if it was the week point with the extra power required killing the board.
Since the problem has got worse and even though you are getting through pcb`s like there is no tomorrow ( which is possible! ) the origin of the fault might be a now broken wire to the motor ( one of those brushless induction jobies but with a belt rather than a direct drive contraption ). Switch off / pull the plug and remove the back plate and have a good look especially if the cables are held in any base cable clips sometimes covered in a spongy grey foam. Bit of an optimistic suggestion I`ll grant you but not unknown. And yes the pcb are a bit naff. Also you could also try blowing down the pressure switch pipe for any resistance = a blockage = you can get an inverse blockage where the machine overfills but does not leak ( you would never know ) due to the air trap being part blocked-up but when the machine pumps out the trapped air doesn`t excape to release the p/swt = the machine still thinks it has water inside = it will not spin, same thing happens to the p/swt rubber hose – pin prick split gives you the same fault but for a different reason. I grant you that it is more likely to be the pcb but do not jump to that conclusion.DO NOT blow up into the actual p/swt as you`ll mess it up – they`re not like the old rubber diaphram p/swts of old
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. We decided not to spend money on trying to fix a washer that hasn’t been that reliable, so we’ve replaced the Samsung with an AEG. We’ll have to see how we get on with that one.
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