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The tip would be below the ice I guess – it’s a long phial – but since the phial disappears inside the tube it’s difficult to see where exactly it lands up.
It’s possible, but unusual, that the compressor is running weak giving an ice ball at the top lowering the cabinet temperature but not getting cold enough where the phial is to switch it off so it runs constantly.
I’d be well weird but if the stats correct, which we know it is, the phial is positioned correctly, which I’m assuming it is then it’s about the only plausible reason I can think for what you describe.
Not unheard of but odd. And it all seems very counter-intuitive when stuff like that happens as it doesn’t make sense to most people as it’s over freezing which screams a stat failure.
K.
This is the strange thing. I’ve now tried three different stats – one with a short phial that I had lying around, one that was correct by model number but not product number and now one which should be (and is on comparison to the original part) correct. The phial is going into the sleeve for most of its length and hitting a stop so it must be correctly positioned. I also swopped out the starter and cutout from another fridge temporarily – although that wouldn’t really account for continuous running.
I’m 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} certain it’s wired correctly – even if the connections on the stat had got muddled the light would probably go off and on instead of the compressor. (??) I’ll double check the wiring today.
I’ve got a fridge thermometer on the top shelf at the moment where it’s iced up – I’ll try moving that to the bottom of the fridge to see if it’s significantly warmer.
The only other thing that might have any bearing is that a couple of weeks ago the power was switched off at the consumer unit for a while and when it was switched back on the fridge started with a loud thumping/banging noise for a good few seconds – as if the motor was jumping violently on its springs within the compressor case. Since then however it stops and starts normally when switched off and on at the stat or wall socket and it runs quietly without any undue gurgling or other noises.
Yes – completely counter intuitive – because you feel that the compressor is working its socks off and just needs to be stopped now and again to maintain a reasonable temperature and let the defrost work.
Could it be needing re-gassing?
It won’t be a leak, why is explained in depth here:
https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/fix-it-yourself/refrigeration-self-help/4016-refrigerant-gas
If it’s wired wrongly you might get that, yes. Or other weirdness.
K.
Temperature at the bottom of the fridge is higher than the top – but still at the lower end of range for a fridge – roughly +1 The stat control is at the lowest possible setting – IE just ‘switched on and no more’ so it should really be cutting out at that. A short circuited stat would explain it but I can’t see how that is even possible!
Looking like it I’m afraid – although the thing’s certainly cooling the cabinet adequately. As somebody on the forum suggested it might come to a plugin timer with some ‘quiet times’ to let it defrost! Don’t like the idea of temp varying too much though so it might be Beko graveyard for this one. Pity though – it stands next to a matching freezer!
The problem with doing that is food safety more than anything as it needs to keep a mean temp of +2˚C – +5˚C roughly or stuff will perish outside that, either way.
I wouldn’t trust putting it on a timer to maintain that narrow band.
K.
Have now resorted to more desperate measures! I fitted another thermostat I had lying around which has a shorter capillary and routed it straight into the interior of the cabinet – actually touching the iced up section on the back wall. Predictably the compressor STILL runs continuously and apparently the thermostat is still not sensing the temperature (measured at around -1 near the capillary tip) I’m reluctant to be beaten by this fridge because the compressor seems more than capable of pulling the cabinet temperature down – it just doesn’t know where to stop!! All I need is a thermostat that will respond to the air temperature inside the cabinet. I haven’t actually tried fitting the ‘proper’ thermostat inside the cabinet because it has a very long capillary that would need to be carefully coiled up. I might try that next though. Is there any reason why the thermostat is not responding to the cabinet air temperature? Would it need to be clipped to the back wall??
OK – maybe a metal clip or similar to attach to the back wall? It’s certainly touching the ice at the moment – STILL NOT WORKING!!!!! Might try duct tape in first instance to find a spot where it works! I can remember old fashioned fridges where the probe was simply clipped on.- perhaps to the metal side of an ice compartment?
Correct but the cut in and out temps differ for wet wall and older ones like that which normally need a defrost heater as well.
K.
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