Fridge on strike

[rob_rools]

Hi guys 😉
I own a 12 year old Westinghouse fridge model RP252M-L and after it was turned off for defrosting and cleaning refused to restart. I note the auto defrost heating element is on all the time now but the motor won’t run.
A bit of history here.
I bought this new 12 years ago and at 6 years of age it stopped and we needed a fast fix so a serviceman was called who installed a new thermostat. He said they only last about 5 or 6 years so after seeing how easy it was to fit one I bought a new thermostat to keep in case it failed again. Well its now 6 years since the thermostat was replaced and not knowing if the thermostat is responsible for the latest issue I thought I’d fit the new one (fingers crossed) I have but its not identical to the one in the fridge now. The spade connectors are in different places on the new thermostat and I can’t figure out how to hook it up 😥
Also the existing thermostat has three connectors insulated from each other plus the earth connector on the case (total 4, all of which are in use) whereas the new thermostat has the earth connector, a double connector (joined) which clearly accepts the same colour leads and one more connector off by itself (total3) 😳
I took the new thermostat back to the parts place and explained my dilemma, explained that it seems different to whats fitted and they said it should fit my fridge but when I asked for fitment clues they got scared and said they didn’t offer advice 😥
Any comments welcome,
Cheers

[bigsmokepiker]

Re: Fridge on strike

Lets make Sure youve Got right Thermostat
Part # for Original should be 1416543

[rob_rools]

Re: Fridge on strike

Hi and thanks for your reply 🙂
Yes that part number is the same as the one on the part wrapper.
Do you think my existing thermostat is the cause of the heater staying on?
I guess its possible the serviceman who replaced the thermostat 6 years ago used a non genuine part.
Do you have any idea how I’m supposed to connect the new one up?
I was thinking if I was able to photograph the two thermostats to show the differences in the spade connectors?, a picture will tell the story better.
Cheers

[rob_rools]

Re: Fridge on strike

I took pics of the two different thermostats but I can’t figure out how to post them on the forum, sigh 🙁

[Dales-Electronic]

Re: Fridge on strike

What is the make of the original stat and what is the make of the new one?

[rob_rools]

Re: Fridge on strike

Hi,
The existing thermostat is unbranded but carries the number K59 R1102 on the case.
The brand of the new thermostat is Danfoss and there are numbers on the case 1416543 and below that BR077B6073 2231.
Cheers

[Penguin45]

Re: Fridge on strike

The K59 is a Ranco unit, no doubt they cross over. Hang fire, somebody will tell you what it is.

I’m afraid I’m rubbish at fridges 🙁

Penguin45.

[rob_rools]

Re: Fridge on strike

Thanks Penguin,
if all else fails I guess I could go hunting for a Ranco thermostat that is the same as the one in it now, at least I could hook that up.
Can anybody give me a simple explanation of how to post pics here?
Hitting the “Img” button (which I assume is for pics???) only reminds me that I am rubbish at computers (as well as fridges) 🙁

[Penguin45]

Re: Fridge on strike

Most people (inc. me) upload to a hosting site (I use photobucket) and post the link from there.

Penguin45.

[rob_rools]

Re: Fridge on strike

Thanks penguin,
I put pics of both thermostats on photobucket, see if I can send the link………fingers and toes crossed 😯

Old stat

New stat.

[Dales-Electronic]

Re: Fridge on strike

Danfoss connections are usually as follows – Power in on No 3, Compressor on No 4 and defrost/lamp on No 6. Ranco are usually as follows for a larder fridge – Power in on No 6, compressor on 4 and aux/lamp/defrost on 3. Please clarify are you trying to get a two tag thermostat to fit where a three tag was originally fitted? How may wires have you got to connect?

[rob_rools]

Re: Fridge on strike

Please read through my original post, that explains the problem in full as best I can.
Thanks for the wiring info but I was going purely by colour coding. The model Danfoss Thermostat I was sold does not have a spade connector fitted into position 6, that was part of my dilemma, compared to the Ranco I am missing a connector ❓
I can do a drawing and photograph it to show how they had the Ranco wired up if that makes things clearer but I’ll try to explain first.
I am not familiar with the term “larder fridge” but my fridge is what we called a fridge without a freezer, its only intended to be used for milk, drinks, vegies etc. It does not have a freezer compartment.
A four core cord with brown, blue, white and earth wires services the components in the fridge compartment. On the Ranco, Blue wire is connected to the door switch and then direct to the lamp. Brown wire connects firstly to thermostat connector 6 then a second brown wire continues on from 6 to the lamp. White connects to thermostat connector 4 and from there a second white wire connects on from 4 to the defrost heater. A third white wire connects thermostat connector 3 direct to the defrost heater. The green/yellow earth lead connects to the thermostat case.

[rob_rools]

Re: Fridge on strike

I had a thought 💡
Seeing how the new Danfoss thermostat I bought has one less spade connnector on it (connector position 6 which according to member “dales-electronic” is defrost/lamp) than the Ranco brand thermostat what is gonna happen if I simply don’t plug in one of the white wires (need to know which one) that leads to/from the defrost heater?
I don’t need a defrost heater at all, the fridge still requires periodic manual defrosting anyhow.
Is it gonna do any harm to leave one or the other of the white wires disconnected? ❓
Cheers

[aqualectric]

Re: Fridge on strike

The 2 tag Danfoss unit is for a fridge with an icebox. Your fridge doesn’t have an icebox in the same cavity so it is referred to as a larder fridge in the UK; where before fridges we had cold cupboards (usually under the stairs) where food could be kept cooler than the surrounding house. This cupboard was called a larder – hence the reference. End of History lesson. 😉
You need to obtain the correct stat with the number 3,4 and 6 tags. Ranco K59, a VT9, Danfoss No. 3, or Whirlpool W4 will suffice.
To leave the defrost heater disconnected is not really the answer: although the fridge will actually function. It is far better to obtain the correct part and do it right.

Power off before any inspection! :plug:

HTH,

Steve.

[rob_rools]

Re: Fridge on strike

aqualectric wrote:The 2 tag Danfoss unit is for a fridge with an icebox. Your fridge doesn’t have an icebox in the same cavity so it is referred to as a larder fridge in the UK; where before fridges we had cold cupboards (usually under the stairs) where food could be kept cooler than the surrounding house. This cupboard was called a larder – hence the reference. End of History lesson. 😉
You need to obtain the correct stat with the number 3,4 and 6 tags. Ranco K59, a VT9, Danfoss No. 3, or Whirlpool W4 will suffice.
To leave the defrost heater disconnected is not really the answer: although the fridge will actually function. It is far better to obtain the correct part and do it right.

Power off before any inspection! :plug:

HTH,

Steve.

Hi Steve and bless you for this info (including the history lesson 😆 )
I’m handy with fixit stuff in general but electronics I struggle with so please imagine you are telling a chimp what to do 😳
I can’t return the 2 tag Danfoss I have now and it wasn’t free so if you were stranded on a dessert island (a very HOT dessert island 😥 ) and couldn’t buy the proper thermostat you want for a professional repair you could be proud of would you be able to hook up the 2 tag Danfoss thermostat you have now ❓ (without defrost heater if need be) if it means you can have cold beer and a happy girlfriend again 😀 )
Cheers

[Author]

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