- This topic has 26 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 17 years ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Re: Hoover AL130
Yes I took it out and cleaned it. I think this is what may have been stopping the valves. It went through a cycle that time but stopped after the wash cycle and just before the rise cycle. Water got warm. It did the wash cycle drained for about a minute and a half then just stopped. I take it it was about to spin. Is it a PCB fault? Does anyone have a circuit drawing?
Re: Hoover AL130
Hi: Maybe i am losing it but did you not say in your earlier post that you had 230v to both coils & that they weren’t opening? now you say that you had 230v to Earth on both sides of the coil, i.e open circuit switched Neutral.
Please explain L – N will not show up much, if you check across the valve for supply & you don’t get any then check & have a Live supply then it’s obvious that you have no Neutral, the neutral is switched via a Triac on the main board only if all other requirements are met. 1 of the main requirements being that the pressure switch is in the empty or Re – set position. Forgot to ask, does your machine have a rinse hold feature? & if it does have you checked that this is not enabled.As for a circuit diagram, sorry but these are only available to registered members of the trade.
Re: Hoover AL130
Thanks for the explanation. Switched N! I found that 230V to both valve coils but no water coming in, thinking that the L was switched. Both coils have 230V to them, through the coil and back. In this state using a voltmeter on the in and out side of the valve coil will give no difference in potential until the neutral is switched and valve opens. There will be 230V in and 230V out. No volt reading but still live. Testing from either side of the coil when the neutral is not switched to earth will give a 230V reading. When the triac closes the neutral, current flows and the coil opens but with triac in open circuit 230v goes to both coils and there is no volt difference across the coil contacts.
The machine doesn’t have a rinse hold option. I am thinking that the three relays on the PCB control motor direction and speed. 2 for direction and one for speed. The one controlling speed could have gone west. The machine would then drain but not spin. What do you think?Re: Hoover AL130
What changes the speed of the motor? As in the motor works fine but will not do the high speed spin.
Re: Hoover AL130
O.K you seem to be making this more confusing than it actually needs to be, lets get it straight if you only have a live to an item then you do not have a 230v supply to it, it takes 2 conductors to make a supply. If you only have Live going to the valves then obviously something is not switching the Neutral to it.
When you started this thread you said that the machine stops pre rinse cycle, in your last post you say that it doesn’t go into high speed spin.
Can you clarify this, are you saying that you have turned the programmer to the spin position & it won’t spin ? or have you let it go through the cycle & it has stopped pre-rinse? 😕
Re – your last but 1 post regarding Triacs switching: I really don’t need a lesson in how this stuff works, I have been in the Electrical / Electronics industry for the last 35 years both as an Engineer & as a lecturer in Electrical / Electronic Fault finding / Servicing. What we do need to be able to try & help you is a concise & accurate fault report on what is happening to your machine.Re: Hoover AL130
ratdogfink wrote:What changes the speed of the motor? As in the motor works fine but will not do the high speed spin.
Relays 2 & 3 control the tumble direction. Relay 4 is the high speed spin.
Re: Hoover AL130
Martin wrote:
ratdogfink wrote:
What changes the speed of the motor? As in the motor works fine but will not do the high speed spin.Relays 2 & 3 control the tumble direction. Relay 4 is the high speed spin.
Many many thanks Martin. This is the stuff. Knowledge is power and you have the power. So went to Maplin and bought part number N28AW 24vdc 12A 240V SPDT relay coil resistance 1500 Ω £1.31. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2512
Soldered that on the board relay 4 position just as you said and now all works fine. Total cost of PCB repair £1.31. Therefore relay 4 contact had burnt out as coil still reads 1460 Ω and operates with coil supply but is bad contact. The machine now works, the wife saying “when you said you would fix it I thought you meant the fact it did not work not the noisy bearings”
I thank all who have helped me as all comments have been used to form conclusions to resolve various problems any help is good help.
Synchronous motor on timer was fine but the gearing had stripped a couple of gears so PENGUIN 45 was right!!!
Heater meggered fine at 500V
In all, a new timer and relay on PCB. Now I am spraying it today, fitting cold cathode tubes in blue and UV strobe to light the drum on spin. LED’s behind glass panel on the front to strobe during spin. Speaker system so it talks when turned on, turns off, and door open switch (voice of GIR from Invader Zim at random ).THANKS EVERYONE.
Specialist01269 wrote:Re – your last but 1 post regarding Triacs switching: I really don’t need a lesson in how this stuff works, I have been in the Electrical / Electronics industry for the last 35 years both as an Engineer & as a lecturer in Electrical / Electronic Fault finding / Servicing.
I was answering your question from a previous post and airing my thoughts for comment, not inviting ridicule. Lecturing does seem to be your best point. If you can’t do it, teach it. Everyone is an expert at some things no one is an expert at everything. No need for it.
Re: Hoover AL130
Sorry did I take your post regarding Triacs the wrong way, it didn’t appear to be a question, I don’t see anywhere where you have been ridiculed. I was trying to get you to give us a straight answer as you seemed to be giving different fault explanations each time of what was going on, as for ‘If you can’t do it teach it’: I do it everyday on both Commercial & Domestic equipment.
Re: Hoover AL130
Yes Grandmaster. Due to your posts and that of Martin I have worked out a cost effective solution. I did notice the posts go a bit dead when the old logic circuit came about. It is due to your self and Martin that I resolved the last fault and I thank you for that and I respect your wisdom oh Grandmaster. (You can now call me Grasshopper). Washing machine repair is a new experience for me but I have learnt a lot. The advice of my own grandmaster was “get a cheap one and throw it every two years”.
The beast is now Pistachio green and I have not fitted the UV lamps as I suddenly thought it may deteriorate the tub. The blue cathodes are OK but I was expecting a little more light into the drum but it does look like its floating.
Searching for a trigger for the voice (3 different triggers).helo_75 wrote:have you actually checked the pressure chamber for blockages?
Well no not at the time but I did jet wash the inside of the tub when I fitted the bearings. So I took it off and cleaned it out but it was OK. Then to UKWG to post a message. Back to the machine and turned it on for a test run. Back to UKWG and search for similar problems and read a few posts through. Back to kitchen and hey presto the machine now lets in water, and doesn’t stop with the pressure chamber off and run out of machine and onto floor, said water flows under kitchen cabinets and into the hall. The machine open no lid or back on. So I did have a flood. A good flood. I deserve it really, so you can have the last laugh on me. Got it up before she came home and left the mop and bucket in the kitchen. First thing she said was “you’ve had a flood haven’t you”
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.