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Original owner of this washer, that I’d like to keep if I can fix.
Motor does not operate. Brushes were worn, now been replaced. Cleaned stator commutator with alcohol and toothbrush. Motor spins freely by hand. Not sure where to go from here? There’s power on the live to the motor.
Make sure the new brushes have been fitted right and any locking tags have been removed.
You say you cleaned the commutator so what was it like before you cleaned it was it shiny or was it matt black.
Where the brushes worn out rather than worn and if it was a case of just worn how much carbon brush bits were left 1cm`s worth or what AND are both the old brushes got shiny running faces OR one is shiny t`other is a matt black. Did you pull out the motor`s terminal block maybe if you did you want to check the tags. Other thing that it might be is the motors`thermal o/load is shot you`ll need a test meter. If the actual motor`s wiring has two red wires that is for the tacho wires so ignore those. You want to find two other tags that do not read through to any of the others to prove a duff motor. Set you meter on highest ohms setting e.g 20k
Common place for damaged / broken wires to the motor is by or just under where the cable tie is on the chassis side before that loom darts across to the motor..Thank you for replies.
Brushes worn to the point they usually wear to, with a little left over about 1cm. Both shiny with curve matching the comutator. Also tab bent to allow contact. I can hear the brushes rubbing over the commutator when I turn it.
Commutator grey like it is usually, cleaned it to see if it would help.
All the wires to the block from the board are white.
Washer goes through all the motions of filling and draining.
I have a cheap multimeter I can use.
At one point the motor moved a little, just a quick short motion while the washer going through a program.Possibilities:
1. Break in the loom supplying the motor?
2. Thermal load damaged
3. Fuse on the boardThere does seem to be power to the motor live wire.
I have made the spade connections grip the brush tabs more securely. They were a bit on the loose side.“All the wires to the block from the board are white” Yes I know. I meant the wires of the motor`s internal terminal block. Which motor do you have? I presume due to releasing tags you have white plastic brushes C00197976 rather than the “newer” motor which used all black holders with raise ” L ” on each brush. At a guess either a broken wire like where I said or the thermal motor windings fuse has popped. Could have a look at the tracks on the programmer too to see if anything blown….pray that isn`t the case because you will not know whether the motor caused it or not so potentially two expensive bits to change.
ok put your multimeter on a low ohm scale
place one lead on one of the brushes then try ever contact on the motor connector. disconnect motor before trying. you should get a reading on 2 of them
if you dont thermal overload blown
Dave0 empty
1 black centre
2 blue (-)
3 white (+)
4 red R
5 Yellow L
6 tacho
7 tacho2 & 3 no reading to any other pins
Readings brush (colour white) to tags only 1 reading
Pcb looks ok:
Conponents look okThermal fuse: replace or test conponents on pcb?
Thermal fuse on blue wire, tucked into plastic housing tightly underneath winding?Blue>fuse>blue>brush
Scorched plastic tab cover historical from years ago.One term I’ve found: 3MP Motor Protector
3MP21301 17X8TThese look simlar: https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/product…7005A/13577712
Motor label: 2 or 8A, 220-240v.
10A 250v fuse be OK then
I guess now it’s a case of which temperature rating to go for.. Also what kind of tape to put round it that will not melt, and insulate it properly?What temp rating for fuse?
When replaced the reason for it to blow and other issues:
1. Pcb
2. Capacitor?
3. Worn brushes?
4. Pc component (board look OK)
5. Timing board fuse / wiring loom fuse
6. Pressure switch
7. Tabs and wiring in motor
8. Relays (maybe stuck)
9. Armature (maybe faulty)“Scorched plastic tab cover historical from years ago”. Yep most did that the tags were not up to the amps.
Looks as though your t/fuse is duff.
Don`t know too much on electronic components but would of thought 130 degrees centigrade would be fine. The tape I would use is heat shink but let it naturally heat shink on its own accord. Armature more likely cause of the failure. Best bet is to replace the thermal fuse then test the machine under no load, if it works then try with wet load. I suspect the motor will not work because of a duff armature but of course I could be wrong. I have had a fair number of these in the past that had duff armatures (as well as the usual naff brushes and even brushes that were surprisingly still ok) even though the commutator looked visually ok it wasn`t. Just to make you aware, should temptation or desperation beckon, that the look a like Hotpoint 95 series (the series just before your WM series) motor`s replacement armature (which was a pattern part) that you might still be able to get will not interchange with the WM series. The WM series new replacement motor is now completely different to what you have fitted – now replaced by a FHP motor (which is the one I intitially thought you might have had) part number C00118057 (J00121704) £134.99 comes with mounting bolts based on Hotpoints website based on WM63PS – check your machine`s ratings label . If you do not want to go to the expense of this new replacement motor (and I personally wouldn`t but you might) an e-bay second hand motor may well be your best bet (if you can get the original one) BUT make sure it is for the exact same model you have – they were not all the same they just looked the same; I think you`ll struggle to find one to be honest but worth looking.Thank you for the info. The machine is indeed WM63 with the white plastic brush housing. 130°c has been popping up as a possible rating for a replacement fuse, it’s good to read this from you also. Will this be it’s rating for use or cut off point of failure? I read Class B(?) insulated motor 130°c with a cut off at 145°c but was only guidance, not necessarily the correct option for me. Can I test the armature with a meter to determine if it’s still OK?
A search later.. It would seem so ☺️Armature:
Commutator bars to ground no reading
Adjacent bars similar reading
180°/opposite bars similar reading
Commutator bars to armature stack no readingwell why dont`t you just change the motor o/load fuse since, from what you tell me via your meter reading, it has failed then bung the motor back together again with your new brushes and just see what happens. With armatures that look fine you can mess about with a meter and everthing checks out just dandy but in reality even if everything looks/reads great it can still be the motor` armature at fault – that is very true but if you do not try you won`t know. The only thing you can do is 1) do the motor, 2) check the timer the best you can – your tracks and solder look ok but the relay/s could be stuck but I never had that one before myself, 3) check the wires and tags including the brush female tags and 4) check the pressure switch – on these machines you should hear a click when you blow into it and a click back when the pressure is released- if you hear nothing either way that`ll be your problem that was running in parallel (stranger things have been known) – I doubt this will be the problem, so highly unlikely and 5) although the hotpoint parts break down does not show a wiring loom fuse holder to the motor check to see just in case, as Dave suggested – if the loom were to have one it would be within a bundle of wires running next to the programmer area in a black plastic holder from memory and also from dodgy memory I think that was only fitted to the top range all singing and dancing microproccessor model.
So what it boils down to is either the a)motor is duff, b)the programmer is duff or c)the wires are dodgy, or d)the pressure switch is iffy as a remote possible problem. So then if c and d are fine that leaves the 2 most expensive parts: a) we can agree on that the motor o/load fuse appears to be duff and b) the programmer might be but it is very doubtful so that leaves a) so change the motor fuse and if you are lucky it might work and if not you can`t get a new armature (well, not as far as I know), the 95 series armature even if available won`t fit, on the plus side: you can buy an expensive new motor, you might be able to get a decent s/hand motor either the original as you have (or a s/hand FHP type) but other than those last 2 options that is it. All I can tell you is based on my own experience is that when the motor fuse pops only once did I bypass an o/load fuse (Anyone else reading this: this was just to try, if you like as an experiment – you never ever do this whether it turns out working or not working and just leave it that way) and that did not cure the motor so it was put down to being an armature fault, a brand new motor was bought and fitted (always with fingers crossed because you never know 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}) and then the machine worked just fine, problem solved……………………until just after, say about 8 months later I recall the bearings wore out and drum spider cracked and so they scrapped it – take note, that bit I do remember. Their crystal ball was just as useless as mine! All other future motor fuse o/load failures I just bought new motors from there on to save wasting my time, it wasn`t that common so I reckon say, maybe 5 altogether as some just scrapped the machine based on cost V age; suppose I could say the same for Bosch models too.The spider has lasted around 7yrs a piece in this washer and usually change the bearings at the same time. Cost overall hasn’t been too bad at less than £28yr overall, including purchase from new and parts.
Still that’s nearly £784. Not sure how many we’d have been through and at what cost otherwise??I’m unsure of what fuse to buy and where from?
The ones I linked to are they appropriate?
Yes there is a fuse holder it slides into and is held in by the wiring pushing down on it.Found this one on same site: https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/product…2B09C/14123785
Me neither! Why don`t you phone them wiith the the niumber as read off the the thermal fuse and see if they can match it or as close as possible.
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