- This topic has 23 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 21 years, 3 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Re: Hotpoint – Change the bearings.
peeler40 wrote: It was drilled after the bearing not before the bearing so any water that got passed the seal went through the bearing instead of escaping down the drain hole
Whilst that is very true, the holes positioning was wrong. However, it did not deal with the fundamental problem as to premature failure. In fact the ‘modified’ complete drum assemblies have not really solved anything and will still have a very short life.
I believe the problem lies in the fact that Hotpoint have made no provision for ‘static discharge’, and no longer put an earth grounding on the bearing hub as they used to way back on the 95 series. Electrostatic forces come into play very much on these modern high speed, high torque units and generate enough destructive powers on the knife edge water seal by themselves. (After all, it’s the water seal that fails here and not the bearing, no matter where the hole is or was) Add to that, the corrosive effect of detergent, water hardness, stray fibres and pet hairs and we are very much talking of the ideal senario for early breakdown every time.
‘Modified’ ????? I think not 🙁
Martin
swindon wrote:can anyone give me the repair manual for a wma 31
Hi 😆
I have started to get a loud banging noise 😕 could this be the said bearing? also cannot work out how to get the drum out unless as someone already said use a can opener.Any help will be very much appreciated.
Normally I would have no problem with repairs but cannot work out how to get apart to the drum
cheers
ChenyRe: Hotpoint – Change the bearings.
Cheny,
If this machine is under 5 years old, contact Hotpoint. They will come and replace the drum unit for you for £90. To be honest, you will nit be able to buy the neccessary parts for that sort of money.Regards,
Penguin45.Re: Hotpoint – Change the bearings.
Martin wrote:
I believe the problem lies in the fact that Hotpoint have made no provision for ‘static discharge’, and no longer put an earth grounding on the bearing hub as they used to way back on the 95 series. Electrostatic forces come into play very much on these modern high speed, high torque units and generate enough destructive powers on the knife edge water seal by themselves.
Martin
But they have, the belt is electrically conductive, one very good reason to use genuine belts only on these models.
PS. sorry about the post in the ‘finnish’ saga thread. I won’t do it again. 😳
Re: Hotpoint – Change the bearings.
iadom wrote:But they have, the belt is electrically conductive, one very good reason to use genuine belts only on these models.
Well flip my old boots I never knew that 😯
I got one out from my vast stock mind you, just to check with my ‘Metrohm’ and by golly gosh, the man’s right 😀
…there’s always something new to learn every day from this site…guaranteed :tup:
Martin
P.S So! my theory of Hotpoint bearing failures has taken a dive as a result of this revelation. However, I know conclude the failure rate is due simply to inferior quality materials being used 😀
Re: Hotpoint – Change the bearings.
Any chance anyone can tell me which parts are required as the links below no longer go to the products.
Many Thanks
Moz
Re: Hotpoint – Change the bearings.Postby Dave_Conway » Tue Jan 04, 2005 4:43 pm
Ozzy wrote:Who is the “we” that will provide the bearing kit?
UK Whitegoods collectively.
The bearing kit is only £15 on this site 😉 but you’ll also need the seal that goes in between the two halves of the tub plus postage hence the “around £40” estimate which was a little high admittedly 😳
Dave.
Re: Hotpoint – Change the bearings.
Links updated, thanks. It’s a nightmare keeping track of all the links on here so it’s nice to be told when they’re broken. 🙂
Do watch the bearing size though as they used the 30mm kit in some and the 35mm on others. The tub gasket is the same for all though.
HTH
K.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.