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This is my son’s fridge freezer that stopped working a few years ago (it’s ok he’s got a Tesco Metro nearby). About 18 months ago I thought I would investigate but couldn’t find anything obviously wrong. This is what he said was happening before it stopped working completely…
“It started with a clicking noise (solenoid?) when opening fridge door. This was coupled with the fridge lights briefly cutting out. This did stop after a while. However, I noticed that the clicking noise would now occur without the fridge door being opened and would repeatedly happen for a short amount of time. I noticed that the fridge was struggling to cool and tried turning the temperature down. This may or may have helped short term. After which I emptied and shut the fridge off.”I’ve checked the start relay, apart from a smell that suggested it has been hot, it seemed ok. I checked the capacitor, it read a bit lower than expected, but that might be my meter/measuring technique. Both these parts are not too expensive so could be replaced if they are likely to be the cause. I checked for some lowish resistance across the three compressor pins, all ok. I looked at the control board and couldn’t see any issues. The power indicator appeared not to be working but I found there was power at its connector, so the neon (if that’s what it is) seems to have failed.
So firstly, suggestions please on what to do next and secondly where does the capacitor connect to on the start relay or in relation to the pins on the compressor ? (I’ve left it disconnected for such a long time I can’t remember).
Thanks in anticipation.
Hardythe only diagram i have shows where the cap goes in the circuit but no pics of the actual connection
your original problem sounds like a control board and i think its an easy fix but would have to see a decant pic of it
DaveThanks guys, the model number is “FFAA 52 K.1” and yes the fridge/freezer is black. I can’t upload any pics as I get this message “Upload failed due to your usergroup’s upload quota. This file will require 92.7 KB but you only have 19.5 KB of 19.5 KB remaining.”
That cap location looks good based on other generic diagrams I have found through Google.
I can get pics of the control panel for you (subject to being able to upload them). It’s mounted in the plastic control panel, top front of the fridge/freezer. I couldn’t work out how to unclip it without damaging the plastic panel, doesn’t look like it was ever intended to be removed. Any ideas ?
Thanks,
Hardy
ok thought it may be like that
see the component marked. this capacitor provides the power to the board and over time the lose value so the board gets less and less powerthis was probably your original fault
Dave
Hello Dave,
I’ve added a side view image of this component to the album linked above, showing the label, it looks to be more than just a simple capacitor. The fridge freezer is a few years old now but hasn’t seen much use, so I’m suprised that this component would be effectively worn out. So where do I get one of these capacitors/power conditioning blocks or do I have to get a new board ?
Thanks,
Hardy
well i cant say if yours has failed or not without teating but its a common failure on these type of boards
peel off the label
it will be either 1uF or 1.5uF x2 type supression capacitor the only thing you have to watch is lead spacing so it fits the board
easy to get and really cheap. one of those jobs you can do for little outlay and even if your wrong its no big deal
Dave
Do you think these would do the job ? https://uk.farnell.com/illinois-capacitor/105mkp275k/cap-1-f-10-pp/dp/2841798
yes that would do
the original cap is made by epcos
B32924A4105M000 Epcos, Safety Capacitor, Metallized PP, Radial Box – 2 Pin | Farnell UKjust make sure the lead spacing is correct also the value as this is the 1uF version
Dave
I’ll have a look at those you sent the like for, they may be the best bet.
Thanks
Hardy
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