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Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
youreds91 wrote: Is it possible I fried their replacement board
Extremely possible, but damage to the PCB from motor, wiring or doorlock failure is virtually always easy to see in the form of blown tracks or components on the PCB.Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
iadom wrote:
youreds91 wrote:
Is it possible I fried their replacement board
Extremely possible, but damage to the PCB from motor, wiring or doorlock failure is virtually always easy to see in the form of blown tracks or components on the PCB.I’m sure EMW will check before refunding. Have ordered a wiring harness, which I’m thinking is the likely cause.
Correct me if I’m wrong but I assume the numerous wires going to the motor tell it to do different thing as dictated by the board? ie. slow spin, fast spin, ‘warp speed’. Although I’ve not watched a full cycle it seems to fall over before the warp speed spin.
While I’m on, is there a trick for getting the belt back on?Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
youreds91 wrote:Correct me if I’m wrong but I assume the numerous wires going to the motor tell it to do different thing as dictated by the board?
The various wires are primarily the main circuit, the speed sensor and 2 ‘field’ tappings that give the spin speed variance.
yoursds91 wrote:While I’m on, is there a trick for getting the belt back on?
We in the trade use a ‘special tool’ that effectively is a short metal tube that’s wide enough to slot onto the motor pulley after first placing the over the drum pulley. The alternate method is by fixing the belt first onto the drum pulley (with a cable tie), threading the belt over the motor pulley then rotate the drum pulley. Once the two are back on the rails (so to speak) simply cut the cable tie….. (count your fingers after you have succeeded)….!
Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
Martin wrote:(count your fingers after you have succeeded)….!
I take that advice very seriously, where I work a guy had an unfortunate incident when he climbed the racking (bad idea at the best of times) & then fell off. He now has 1 less than the standard number of fingers & warehouse staff are now not permitted to wear rings :eeek: .
Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
OK, my understanding of washers has grown enormously today thanks to this forum. I’ve scaled back my DIY as I get older but have enjoyed this so far, SWMBO seems happy at my efforts so far too.
Have got the top off to inspect the wiring which looks fine to me, it’s rubbed against the casing at the side, which has in turn rubbed off the paint, but the wires seem fine. Observing from below the loom is well clear of the concrete block. It all looks fine around the motor connector too.
As I say I’ve ordered the PCB to motor wires.
Have also run my tester over the heater, can’t see any leakage to earth. I’m only good at basic electrics but would have thought any faults like this would trip the RCD in the consumer unit? I know this works OK after an incident with a PC power supply recently.
Anything else I can look at now I’m an expert! 😕
I do have a few pics of the wires:
From the top:
From below
Near the concrete block
Connector
Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
Fitted the new motor>pcb>door cable yesterday.
I think it’s working OK now.
Will do another load & report back.Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
Right, not fixed, but I’ve been watching the machine do some cycles. A cycle with the time saver button pressed went through no problem. On other cycles it gets stuck at the end of the wash part, before it goes to rinse & spin, it sits there for ages with the pump going, but nothing left to pump before it gives up. But I managed to get it to go to rinse & spin by shaking the drum (gave the concrete block a nudge with the top off), this seemed to kick it into action & it finished the cycle.
I’m at a loss now.
Any last tips before I give up?Cheers
Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
Sounds like it is just possible the Pressure Switch ‘thinks’ the machine is at flood level. Shaking the tub clears it momentarily for it to continue. Therefore I suggest you remove and clean the sump hose and the air chamber attached to it. Could be it is gunged-up and causing the pressure switch not to ‘reset’ to empty.
Just a thought. 😀
Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
Martin wrote:Sounds like it is just possible the Pressure Switch ‘thinks’ the machine is at flood level. Shaking the tub clears it momentarily for it to continue. Therefore I suggest you remove and clean the sump hose and the air chamber attached to it. Could be it is gunged-up and causing the pressure switch not to ‘reset’ to empty.
Off came the sump, looked clean. Twisted off the pressure switch to remove the tube & blew down it, all clear.
Refit switch & what do we see……
I take it that the black wire should be attached to the plug with the other black wire on it?
It must have been a poor connection, finished off when I removed the switch.Thanks for the heads up on that, will dig out the soldering iron. 😀
Update, no soldering needed, it’s a scotchlock thing, reconnected, tested with my meter, & now the pump just runs non stop 😡
Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
If you read the e-mail I sent you it looks as though Martin and I came to the same conclusion as regards the pressure switch being the area of your problem.
With the machine empty you should get a cicuit between 11/12 on the pressure switch, with a very gentle blow down the pipe it should change to 11/14. You should not get a connection between 11/16.
Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
iadom wrote:If you read the e-mail I sent you it looks as though Martin and I came to the same conclusion as regards the pressure switch being the area of your problem.
With the machine empty you should get a cicuit between 11/12 on the pressure switch, with a very gentle blow down the pipe it should change to 11/14. You should not get a connection between 11/16.
Cheers for the help fellas I do appreciate it. I’ll have to pick this up tomorrow, due to me having downed 2 tins of Old Speckled Hen, not a good idea to poke around in there now.
I’m not sure what you mean with 11/14, 11/12 when checking for a circuit, do you mean the other end of the connectors on the PCB? I sense the fix is in sight…
Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
No, I am talking about the connections on the pressure switch, they are numbered if you look carefully. 11/12 closed circuit when empty, 11/14 closed when the switch clicks after a gentle blow. 11/16 should not be closed unless you blow very hard which is not advisable as this can often damage the switch.
Double check your repair to the plug to make sure it is not shorting across, better still replace with new AMP tags properly insulated.
Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
iadom wrote:No, I am talking about the connections on the pressure switch, they are numbered if you look carefully. 11/12 closed circuit when empty, 11/14 closed when the switch clicks after a gentle blow. 11/16 should not be closed unless you blow very hard which is not advisable as this can often damage the switch.
My eyes are shot for anything close up, fortunately I got one of these from LIDL the other day £4.99, bargain.
The numbers were duly found, the switch clicked when blown & the circuits were as you said.
iadom wrote:
Double check your repair to the plug to make sure it is not shorting across, better still replace with new AMP tags properly insulated.Not shorting, but I didn’t test properly at the other end of the wire at the PCB. The insulation hadn’t pinched through. Stripped off 10mm or so & folded over, tested OK now.
Started a wash just now, pump ran for a few seconds, stopped & the machine filled OK.
Will report back, but I’m confident you’ve fixed it.
Glad I whacked it last night 😀Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
Looking good, you can now treat the missus to a slap up meal with some of the £400+ that you have saved as a reward for her patience. 8)
Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem
All is good now, machine running fine & it’s great that I know so much about how washers work now.
I noticed the door seal is perished & black with crud, so I’ll be ordering one from this site & fitting.
Thanks for all the help, I’ll be back when I next have a faulty appliance.
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