indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

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  • #33683
    loki
    Participant

    Okay guys I need your help again, Have read that the 2nd and 4th light is the error code for a heater/pcb problem, however could you explain somthing to me? I only get the error on the two hottest washes, “time for you 70’c, and rapid and dry 67’c” the Eco wash at 60’c is fine. could this point MORE to the element OR the board OR to a cut off switch.
    I should point out that the wash would apear to finish on both the problem cycles (no water left and dishes are sparkling) unit is aprox 10-12 month old but can not find reciept.
    I am prepared to take it appart but your knowledge would be usefull before I get dirty!!
    Cheers in advance people! 8)

    #239623
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    Intermittant failure would point towards the PCB rather than the heater.

    #239624
    loki
    Participant

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    On a scale of 1 to 10 how certain would you be?? and do you know if they have improved these boards?
    I take it you will need the serial number etc to source me a new board, and presumably it is located at the top of the door, access gained from the back of the door?
    As ever very grateful for your help.
    Daniel

    #239625
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    The only certainty on Indesit machines is the uncertainty. :rolls: If current experience is anything to go by the electronics in Indesit/Hotpoint machines are getting worse, not better. I went to three Hotpoint washing machines last week, all under 18 months old, all with failed Indesit PCB’s, one PCB even had ‘Made In Romania’ on it.

    If you have access to a meggar or multimeter and the skills to use one then testing the heater is not difficult.

    Serial number is required and the board is behind the facia at the top. Be sure to remove the mains plug and watch out for sharp edges if you do attempt to remove the PCB.

    for some strange reason one board is £20 more than the other one. 😥

    Jim.

    #239626
    loki
    Participant

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    No problem using a multimetre just say what I need to test for (and roughly how to get at it) serial number is 611308297 model no 37521r and the type no is LS08-evo3c please could you give me a price and avail of the board??

    Mental note to myself “Dont buy Indesit or Hotpoint again” ooops! the 3 main white goods in the Kitchen all fall into those brands!!!! 👿

    Like I said thanks for the service you offer.

    #239627
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    Your heater should be visible inside the tub, access to the terminals is from underneath with the base removed.

    Don’t have the exact specs for the heater but you should get between 20 & 25 Ω resistance.

    Module is a C00143212 it is the cheaper one of the two alternatives. An e-mail to spares@ukwhitegoods.co.uk should get you a current price plus delivery charges etc.

    Jim.

    #239628
    loki
    Participant

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4. EASY FIX!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I know this is an old post but, we never bothered taking the machine apart, because on an eco wash we mainly achieved a good wash with an occasional fault. However now the detergent draw is not opening, which made me take it apart, THERE’S A TEMPERATURE SENSOR SUPOSSED TO BE LOCATED TO A CLIP ON THE DESPENER HOUSING…….. WHICH HAD FELL OFF, SIMPLY PUT IT BACK IN AND SECURE, IT WORKS A TREAT, ZERO COST!!!!!………. However now if anybody is reading I need the detergent door release solenoid please help, I can’t believe I have to pay for a whole new dispenser!!!!!!!!!!!! Many thanks Daniel.

    #239629
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    Have you tested the dispenser solenoid?

    Not available as a separate part, complete dispenser is C00143377, around £37.

    #239630
    loki
    Participant

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    I’ve done continuity on both poles and I have an open circuit, therefore I am of the belief its kaput. Or is that incorrect???

    Is the dispencer in stock, do you know?

    Many thanks Daniel.

    #239631
    iadom
    Moderator

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    A simple continuity test may be inconclusive, the valves have quite a high resistance so a resistance test is better, you should get anything between 3000? and 4500? on average.

    looking in the shop, that exact dispenser does not appear to be in stock, however an e-mail to spares@ukwhitegoods.co.uk should soon get you an answer.

    #239632
    mc1
    Participant

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    Not sure if you managed to get a new solenoid Loki, but any chance you can tell me if the dishwasher ran ok without it working?

    Just that I have the same problem i.e. lights 2 & 4 on, and the dispenser flap only operates if the machine gets past the fault which happens after filling is complete and the wash cycle starts. If the fault occurs, the machine empties & cycle stops, and the flap solenoid doesn’t operate. If it does work, the flap solenoid operates, so I’ve pinpointed the fault to this exact time.

    I have checked all the heater wiring and notice the feed wire for the dispenser solenoid comes from the same feed as the heater element circuit. The feed on this wire is present after the cycle starts and water has finished filling which is all fine. Of course the PCB will have a check to make on the circuit, so I’m trying to fathom whether the PCB isn’t correctly switching the solenoid to open the flap, or whether the solenoid isn’t operating and thus flagging up the heater circuit fault!

    PS resistance of solenoid is 1.6k Ohms

    #239633
    madangler1
    Participant

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    the shared side of the heater with the solenoid is the permanent side, the heater and solenoid are switched via the other wires, you can test the heater with out going to the base by doing a resistance check from the two wires on the solenoid to the pink wire going to the board from the heater, disconnect both connection first obviously, you can then also test the pressure switch by going from the same two wires on the solenoid to the door lock, no water in base it should be open circuit, then put a litre or so in the base and check it again, you should see the 30 or so ohm’s from the heater.

    it will operate with out the dispenser fine, if heater is fine then its will be your board, these are quite flakey on these models. after a few years they often to to heater issues.

    #239634
    mc1
    Participant

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    Thanks for the great reply madangler1! I did check the pressure switch by applying a small amount of air pressure when doing the testing underneath…so the PCB it is…it’s had the fault for about 3 years but only once in a while, now it’s the other way round!

    #239635
    mc1
    Participant

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    This may be a fluke, but if I press the soap dispenser flap button a few times (which in turn pushes the solenoid plunger in), the dishwasher goes through a full cycle! So far has done 3 times without fail. If the plunger isn’t operated by hand it comes up with the lights 2 & 4 and empties after about 30 secs after filling and starting the wash cycle.

    As the solenoid is on the same feed circuit as the heater, perhaps the pcb circuit check is programmed to wait for a current spike as the soenoid operates, otherwise flags a fault?? I may be wrong but if not it may help some owners of this model…will update again once have tried a few more times.

    #239636
    madangler1
    Participant

    Re: indesit idl40 lights 2 and 4.

    Don’t see why that would make a difference tbh. Regardless of the position of the solenoid plunger it will still try to move it even if it seized. It does not know what position it’s in before it fires it, It’s an electromagnet that’s all, iv seen quite a few of these where the catch goes stiff due to crap building up on the shaft. This stops the solenoid firing and resetting. I normally carefully dismantle it and clean it and its fine, however you can normally diagnose this by the very loud buzzing coming from it when it’s trying to open the dispenser

    Have you done a resistance check on the solenoid coil ?

    Another thing is try running it with the dispenser disconnected, it should notate a difference.

    These boards are really strange at time. I have also found they do very strange stuff if you have low IR as well. this is something you can’t check unless you have a IR meter

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