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Stops at at various cycles, no pattern, can be prior to fill if on a delayed start or prior to rinse. It can even be set to delayed start 6-7 hours hence and we hear the click of the door release lock perhaps 30 minutes after its been set up. Reset and it may work over night.
Does not seem to have any pattern of failure or not. No codes evident.
2008 model. I am sure I can repair it if its a part replacement, I have already changed a drum bearing on a H&C fill Hotpoint , descaled it during the process.Turns out it was the emersion heater that had failed.
Easy job to fit one and back in operation.cant fine the model number you quote
re check the number and also post the Pnc number on the label in the door
Dave
Dave,
Definately a John Lewis WM 1203. From Handbook.
From Door. Type H1952431
Prod# 914522514/00
s/n 804 00270yes can see it now
have you looked here ?
https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/fault-codes/laundry-fault-codes/3068-zanussi-washing-machine-error-codesDave
There are no error codes, the timer say if its set to 55 minutes , goes back to that and flashes continuously. You can hear it release the electric door lock and that’s it.
some error codes are not shown to the user and you have to go into diagnostics to find them
so when you say no error codes have you checked ?also does it release the lock after the display changes or before. had the odd faulty door lock where the heater in the lock fails and it unlocks the door stopping the machine. cant remember the display changing though
Dave
I am getting the operational information 2nd hand from the wife, so the order of things she doesn’t know.
I cleaned the buttons of which the top edges protrude by about 1 mm and when she went to start it this morning the door locked straight away, whereas she said there has been a delay in the locking recently whilst she has been having the problems.When I said ‘no error codes’, I meant none visible to the user.
I would assume you would need the required software on a device to interrogate the others you are referring and know where to attach the leads.Later I will try the machine on a delay start to wash some of my car drying towels and see what happens. I will let you know if the problem persists.
It was quite interesting the article on Conditioners, just shows how powerfull advertising can be to the gullible women . So most of the things they want soft shouldn’t have conditioners used.
Clothes, particularly whites were much cleaner when washed in uprights like twintubs, or boiled in Persil soap powder rather than cold washes in detergent, which hardly melts the natural greases from the body. Persil is also good for removing tanning from the inside of the tea pot. Add two teaspoons to the tea pot and pour in boiling water. Best done if you are going away for a few days so gives it time to work, but will work overnight.
Also cover the kettle element in vinegar and leave for an hour or two, it just disolves the scale, rinse well and boil and discard the water.
Teaspoon of BiCarbonate of soda down sinks, then add vinegar will soften any build up that can then be rinsed away .
We dry everything outside 12 months of the year as wind is a good softener of clothes whilst drying. Not used the tumble dryer for 20 years, uses too much electricity.
When we lived in Florida I persuaded the wife to dry outside rather than use the dryer.
By the time the 2nd load had finished washing the first load was dry, regardless of materials, most of which was cotton in those temperatures and light reflective colours.I always wash woollen jumpers by hand and dry flat on a net in a frame.
if you follow the link i posted it tells you how to possibly read the fault codes that are not visible
Dave
Dave,
Just done a 30 minute delay wash set at 90° on my car towels adding a Calgon tablet and it worked ok. But we will wait and see if this continues. It could just have been the sticky button not going in far enough. Lets hope so. I will soon hear from the wife if it doesn’t work for her, then I will check for codes. Thank you for those and the emails.
I have been on the Mazda6Ownersclub website helping people today.After several wash loads on Monday the washing machine worked without tripping the door catch, so I would assume it was that mm of dust and scale on the buttons. SWMBO is pleased, thats her toy.
Same machine, JLWM 1203, Installed 2008.
Code E31. Pump starts but doesn’t follow through on rest of cycle regardless of what program you turn it to.
Checked pump visually and filter and you can see the pump running.
Thought it was dirty buttons so had the front control panel off and cleaned buttons.
Also noticed a red square component on the PCB that looked a bit sooty, which I suspect is the cause, but not into electronic black magic.
I would like to repair the machine as it still sounds solid when it runs. Don’t need a new machine that you have to text, just something that washes clothes simply.
After boxing up the problem was still there.
Last time I checked which was recent the emersion heater was still working as it gave a bit of a hick-up previously so checked the glass door porthole for heat and it was ok.
No sign of excessive carbon underneath a sign of brush wear, but not actually checked the motor brushes, but the cycle never reached that point of turning the drum.Any help would be appreciated. Will be going down to the local appliance repair shop (one affiliated with you) next week as they are quite knowledgeable and understanding.
Ok , thank you.
Would moving the machine about ie for decorating have affected anything, though I notice all wires are well clipped up.I will check the water level sensor pipework and put my meter across the terminals (power disconnected), from videos it seems 23 ohms is the figure to look for across the outside terminals.
I will check the drainpipe, but think thats ok as it was running fine since I last moved the machine, plus the drum is not full of water.Pressure switch type 7640.
Can blow down pipe so assume clear.
Connection: 5v/gnd-earth/Out. Left to right
Meter set to test.
Out /5v(both terminals) -57.8 ohm
3rd terminal /out – 1000 ohm
4th terminal/out – 0.
Water valves:
3.7 Ohm each solenoid
Good flow from main and clear inlet filter.
No power to solenoids when selecting wash or rinse cycle, but pump operates each time as does door lock.My limited electro knowledge points to the PCB as a signal is not coming from that. Perhaps its the sooty component I noticed, :(.
How is my reasoning for a Marine Engineer?
Looks like a trip to EDS in Thatcham.
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