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Thanks. Would potato and vegetarian based food still be okay ? I have loads of frozen roasts and chips and jackets and Quorn in there, I presume other than taste there is no risk with them ?
Well, I ordered up a new thermostat to take a chance before ditching it. I saw a video on how to replace it. I think I will get a sense of achievement if I do it. I realise it could be 1 of 10 things, but this seemed easiest to try. I would have no idea how to install a thermistor so thought this the easiest of the options if I were to try just one. Worth one last ditch attempt 🙂 Cheers for your help.
An update on my situation 🙂 Firstly, just a quick apology, I didn’t realise when I posted here that you were also running a store that sold spares, I found here via Google so assumed it was just a forum. I say this because I did order a thermostat and mini control board for the fridge freezer, but I did so elsewhere, I would have ordered via you given your help if I had realised you were also a seller. For whatever reason I didn’t pay enough attention to also read the signatures as I have now seen you mention it there.
Sadly however both items did not solve the issue. I ordered the thermostat only to find my Beko doesn’t use the analogue one, so that was a waste of time. I then got the mini control board, that goes in the light housing, and that didn’t help. Which I knew it probably wouldn’t but it was worth a try I thought given how easy to change.
I guess I am just stubborn, as I realise given it is 11 years old getting a new one is the best way to go, I just hate anything beating me 🙂 The annoying thing is the fridge temp is perfect, so I feel like I am ditching something that at least 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} works perfectly. It is just the damn freezer and it’s constant mass temp fluctuating. Currently going between -24 and -9 which is still too much of a swing, but this changes day to day, some days it goes as warm as -6. Everything stays frozen, which is good, but clearly it is not right for longevity.
I was very tempted to try and change the sensors, but that might just be too much for me to bother with. Can I just ask a couple of questions ?
1. Since removing the light housing unit to change the PCB I find the temperature knob falls off easily if touched or changed, I have to now change the temp on the dial very carefully and slowly. Any ideas why this may be ?
2. Are sensors the same as thermistors ? I just saw your page on changing the 2 sensors (one on fridge, one in freezer), are these the same as thermistors ? I am 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure they are, just double checking.
3. What is the best brand of freezer under £300 ? I was quite happy with the Beko for 10 of the 11 years I had it, so I don’t mind going for another again, but is there better for such a budget price ? Noise is a factor, so Hotpoint are out, they are really noisy.
So if curious for your own websites knowledge, the CDA563F/1 does NOT have an analogue thermostat in the light housing, all that is in there is the small PCB board.
Thanks again for all your help. Oh and below is the latest temp graph if needed, there does seem to be a pattern there at least, just too warm.
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I am not a great fan of Beko and do not touch them, but looking at the interior, it appears to only have one sensor in the freezer, which looks like the evap sensor, this ends the defrost cycle, I cannot see an air sensor, so it is possible the temperature in the fridge also regulates the freezer, so a sensor issue in the fridge not cutting the compressor back on soon enough will affect the freezer temperature, is it in a cold environment ? what temperatures are you getting in the fridge as well ? as mentioned changing the foamed in sensors is a question constantly asked on this site.
Thanks Tony. The environment in the kitchen is around 20 degrees Celsius. The fridge is around 4 to 5 degrees Celsius at all times, seems fairly rock steady. What are your views on the erratic temps in the graph for the freezer ? I realise freezers have a defrost cycle every so often, but it seems to not stay close enough to -18 for my liking. It looks like it has some kind of pattern, but not sure what it is doing or why the swing is so broad. I just hope this isn’t some kind of odd way Beko do their defrost cycle. My old Hotpoint used to be auto-defrost and would stay between -19 and -16 at all times.
I have decided to order a new fridge freezer on Thursday. It is a shame, as I am sure I could do DIY to get there in the end, but for the sake of £250 for a new one I am not sure if the effort is worth it for a 11 year old fridge freezer.
The reason I am thinking of going for Beko again is one of size and price and noise, I have a 55cm max width and 60cm max depth issue. A lot of the better fridge freezers are 60cm width but this would block off the plug socket as it is in an enclosed area.Which magazine gave the narrower Hisense poor reviews and Hotpoints too noisy. Also I am limited to under £300 and don’t want a dispenser this time as I have found it takes up too much space inside the door.
Just out of curiosity, do you think a new sensor in the fridge would solve the issue ? Sadly the analogue thermostat I bought was not correct, as there isn’t one in the light housing.
I have exactly the same problem. I don’t have a data logger, but looking at the thermometer from time to time I see -25c, but more seriously I also see -5c and the food is starting to de-frost before re-freezing. Obviously it is dangerous to eat this food.
I replaced the thermistor in the insulation at the back of the fridge 2 years ago. This is easier than it sounds and only took a few minutes. The fridge went back to working perfectly instead of freezing the milk, and it still works perfectly.
The compressor must be in very good working order to achieve -25c, so it’s annoying that I might have to throw the freezer away for what is surely a simple component replacement. But what is it ?
Any help greatly appreciated !
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