Teka not heating

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  • #272108
    cockney steve
    Participant

    Re: Teka not heating

    try the RS link, check the data sheets and you will see that the temp/resistance gradient is NOT straight -line…in fact, most curves resemble thermionic valve output.

    I would expect that the thermistors are chosen to give a fairly linear characteristic over their design-temperature switching range.

    a standard light bulb LOOKS like any other and WORKS like any other, but there the similarity ends….the difference between a 25 watt bulb and a 100 watt bulb is evident in their respective DC resistances, power consumption and light-output.

    Thermistors are a GROUP of specific components, as are RESISTORS,DIODES and CAPACITORS….nobody argues that all devices within the group are equal.

    thermistors become “tired” and their characteristic becomes erratic.

    Re-read P45’s synopsys of modus operandi….you may then concur that you are “sensing” temp. wrongly and “telling” the relay to drop out.

    I assumed you checked the heater harness for continuity?…….tub moves constantly and wires can work-harden and fracture INSIDE the insulation
    -rare but not unknown in a washer. (got the tee shirt 🙂 )

    #272109
    Penguin45
    Participant

    Re: Teka not heating

    The machine is actually an ALSI31300E and is a Hoover/Candy appliance.

    You stated that you had replaced the coreboard – please check that the replacement was p/no 49008120 – if it isn’t you’ve got the wrong one.

    NTC devices for wash and dry have different part numbers, which implies that they have different thermic values/properties. Wash NTC is p/no 92743616.

    Approximate resistances are as follows:

    30c = 15.8 kOhms
    40c = 10.5 kOhms
    50c = 7.2
    60c = 5.0
    70c = 3.6
    80c = 2.6
    90c = 1.9

    Hope that’s some help,

    Penguin45.

    #272110
    gtv
    Participant

    Re: Teka not heating

    thats alot of help many thanks, yes that is the core pcb I have fitted took 5 atempts to get the right one and I ended up with two new working ones!
    the drum NTC is plastic and has a water tight seal where as the dryer one does not.

    Ok I have now linked out the NTC with a 10k resisitor, still the same relay comes only for only a sec. checked all wiring and it is fine including feed to heater.
    I must say my gut says NTC but it would be nice to be able to back it up somehow before I throw more money at it.
    God give me a 50″ plasma anyday! 😆

    PS penguin do you have an manual for this? could you please tell me how many contacts the pressure switch has? I have found the fill contacts and the overflow contacts but are there anymore?
    Many tahnks again

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