[amebb]

electrofix wrote:both motors listed for that machine 0100 was superseded by 0200

dont know why the number change but electrically either should be ok

Dave

UPDATE

Just wanted to give an update to my issue that i had with my washing machine.

I recieved my replacement motor which i purchased from ebay.
The model number, the last digits were 0100 and my original faulty motors last four digits were 0200.

Both motors look identical apart from the brush holders were different. My old motors brush holders were black and the replacement motors brush holders were green.

The replacement motor was cleaned and fitted. Everything is now working fine.

Thank you guys for all your help!

Paul

[amebb]

andyjawa wrote:This is fairly common. When the pcb blows it tends, as you just found out on replacing your pcb, that will have blown again- normally blows the commutator in the motor or rather its t`other way round. If you are lucky and replace the motor and that pcb for a brand new one again it should be all back to normal BUT there is a slim chance that the user interface pcb might be affected too. Had this a few times (the motor and the bridge pcb) but when you add up the parts it becomes an expensive Beko. I have to say, but this is my own opinion, I never liked this series and there was another where the pcb was inbuilt within an inverter motor and that was a load of grief too. For other folks who might stumble upon this post the only Beko I did like other than the now ancient WMA series – I had one (bought about 2003) is the basic Chinese made Beko. One customer had two machines, the simple Chinese one for the doggy towels (3 dogs) and the posh Bosch for their own undies, need-less-to-say it was the Bosch that screwed up far more than her Beko which suffered from blocked filter – well, whatcha expect with 3 dogs worth of hair? and some fruit and nut broke the door( though God knows how they managed that but they did). A truimph of post revoluntionary Maoist excellence?

Hi and thank you for your reply.

The fustrating thing for me was getting the right motor for my machine.
The motor that i needed was Arcelik 2835640200. The one i found on Ebay was Arcelik 2835640100.

The motor that i had from the machine i removed the motor and dismantled to check everything. The commutator was checked but i was not happy with the readings i found. There was no earth leakage from the brushes to the body of the motor.
I would say that the motor needs to be replaced and that is what i am doing. Just waiting for the delivery guy to bring my motor… fingers crossed that will be tomorrow.

Personally, i am not a great fan of Beko…. it is an okay… make nothing exciting. As long as it can wash the clothes, wife is happy and i am happy… win win really lol

Will keep you guys posted on what happens when the motor is replaced.

Thank you

[amebb]

electrofix wrote: as i said it could also be the board. as a fuse blows it creates a large current flow that can weld relay contacts. if the reversing relay is in the wrong position it can cause high current flow

and yes it could also be a blown motor

Dave

Hi Dave
Thank you for your reply. I did check the four power relays on the circuit board and they were okay.

My thougt are that the motor may have an issue somewhere. Will check now.

Thanks

[amebb]

electrofix wrote:could be

A) motor

B) shorted wire

C) pcb relay stuck

did the motor turn before the fuse blew ?

Dave

The motor was working orginally when it blew. One of the brushes broke off and caused a shrt circuit that blew the PCB that privides power to the motor (Now replaced with a new one).

Now, when i switch on the machine and start a cycle, it starts and then the fuse blows.

If, i disconnect the harness on the motor then the fuse will not blow.

So i have isolated the issue and that is arund the motor.

Question…. if i use a continuity meter to check the continuityn between the brushes, what should happen and also what should the resistance be between the brushes?

Thanks

[amebb]

amebb wrote:

Hi Dave
Thank you for your message.

I tested the components and the bridge rectifier is working okay and within designed tolerences.
The other components are working fine too.

I was thinking of repairing the burnt tracks but inbetween that i had already ordered a new unit off ebay that cost me about £15.00.

My thinking was to just replace the unit and also keep the wife happy too….

I will let you know when i get the new unit and how everything works out

Thanks

Hi Dave
So, i got the unit today and installed it. I ran a basic cycle and the main fuse in the fuse box blew.
Now i need to find out what is causing this issue. I may need a new motor or it could be something else.

Thanks

[amebb]

electrofix wrote:the board only supplies the motor so that is why your motor is not turning

the tracks on the board that blew are designed to act like a fuse and will have blown when the brush shorted

if you know how to test the board you can repair it but you have to know how to test a bridge rectifier

other than that it needs replacing

Dave

Hi Dave
Thank you for your message.

I tested the components and the bridge rectifier is working okay and within designed tolerences.
The other components are working fine too.

I was thinking of repairing the burnt tracks but inbetween that i had already ordered a new unit off ebay that cost me about £15.00.

My thinking was to just replace the unit and also keep the wife happy too….

I will let you know when i get the new unit and how everything works out

Thanks

[amebb]

electrofix wrote:google search [h=3]2817690100[/h]
you will find this board at the top of the machine on the right in a cradle

remove board and check for blown tracks as this board has fusible tracks in case of shorts

Dave

Hello Dave
So, i examined the PCB and noticed that there were two points on the PCB where the tracks had no continuity. I have marked these with red circles.

Does this PCB supple power to the washing machine circuit board?
Also,would you recommend a new board or can i bridge the track with a thin wire soildered on?

Thank you
Paul

[amebb]

electrofix wrote:google search [h=3]2817690100[/h]
you will find this board at the top of the machine on the right in a cradle

remove board and check for blown tracks as this board has fusible tracks in case of shorts

Dave

Other side of the PCB

[amebb]

electrofix wrote:google search [h=3]2817690100[/h]
you will find this board at the top of the machine on the right in a cradle

remove board and check for blown tracks as this board has fusible tracks in case of shorts

Dave

Thank you for your advice Dave

I have removed the unit as suggested and i will have a look with the multimeter to see if there is any damage there.

There are two pictures that i have taken to show the unit.

Thank you

[amebb]

iadom wrote:Have copied and pasted in case that image is not clear.

When this model is first switched on after delivery, the message display will either scroll through in
several languages or may show a particular language.
The correct language must be selected before the dishwasher can be used – THIS IS NOT A FAULT !
Selecting the language:
1. Press the ON/OFF button, you will hear a short beep and the display will show the set language.
2. Use the DELAYED START button to scroll forwards, or the HALF LOAD button to scroll backwards
through the list until you reach the desired language.
3. Press the P button to confirm the selection; you will then automatically enter the list of wash cycles.
Every time the dishwasher is switched on subsequently, the list of wash cycles will be displayed.
Changing the language:
The language may also be changed at a later date, by pressing the P button and the DELAYED
START button simultaneously for a few seconds. Then go to action 1 above to set the language

Hi there

I can change the language on the dish washer. But, as soon as i switch off the dish washer the language resets and i need to change it again.

Thanks

[amebb]

electrofix wrote: does sound like a board problem and the bad news is Hotpoint boards have to be programmed so cant be fitted by anyone without the correct gear

Dave

Thank you, but how would this be a board fault?

Where abouts is the board located please?

[amebb]

Hi
Just wanted to know if there is any technical guides online to help diagnose what the issue is with my fridge?

Thank you

[amebb]

electrofix wrote:said it was a long shot
there is a tech bulletin re a faulty temp sensor but was only fitted between serial no’s beginning 305 to 307. yours starts 530 so is well out of that range

Dave

Thank you Dave for your help.

So far the fridge is keeping a steady 5 degrees C…. its been about a week now. Having said that the fridge has not been opened much.

Thanks

[amebb]

electrofix wrote:just a long shot but have you got the rest of the fridge info

complete pnc number and serial no

Dave

Hi Dave sorry for the late reply but here is the rest of the info on the fridge.

model – JLFFW2001
sno – 53000071
class SN/N/ST
NR Pro – 928405948

type – 8406958

Hope that helps ?

Thanks

[amebb]

electrofix wrote:sensor should be 8700 ohm at 0 degrees and 5348 ohms at 10 degrees

take a really good look at the door seals as if they are not in contact all the way round moist air can get in

Dave

Hi Dave. Thank you for your reply. The door seals are really good and not letting in any warm air etc.

I have had the fridge running since yesterday and its at a steady 4 degrees C…. but i know as soon as i start to open it etc over 2 or 3 weeks (or sooner) i will get frost build up.

Thanks

[Author]

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