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Many thanks but I think I may have got there with some intensive googling and a bit of playing around. I found the equivalent Akso manual here: Download Asko WM25 Service Manual | ManualsLib which says you need to press S5 or S6 during startup, but since I don’t have those on my model I pressed the Delay Start button S10 on startup, selected option with, I think Start button S1 but may be mistaken. Then it changed from (presumably) Super Rinse to Delay start. I’ll get the wife to verify in the morning but all seems good.
Just one issue with the machine – the delay start doesn’t seem to work. Instead of adding an hour with each press, pressing it adds 10 minutes to the cycle and pressing again removes the extra 10 mins – so just toggles that extra 10 mins. Not sure whether this is a fault with the board or something that can be programmed. I found on one post that holding the Start/Stop button while turning on at the power button does a factory reset so have tried that but made no difference.
Any ideas? I know there are a number of programming options for number of spins etc. but they seem to have gone from the web, along with the ISE web site. Perhaps one of these would help? I know that kwatt was going to do a cheat sheet at one point (a decade ago!) ISE 10 Keeps showing an old wash cycle ??!! – UK Whitegoods Domestic Appliance Help And Support ForumsParts received on Friday, fitted that day – new pump, new main circuit board, new switch – and the machine came to life. My wife has caught up with a number of loads and all good so far.
I sealed the soap dispenser up well as it had definitely been leaking from there. Not sure about the sump hose, I’ll keep an eye on that I think. I’m loathed to take it off if I don’t need it as it looks tricky as you say and I’m bound to break something.
Thanks for the hint about the thermistor, farside, I’ll get around to checking that.
I don’t want to speak too soon but for now we’re back to having a working machine without having to send our well-loved ISE to landfill. Many thanks for the help from everyone on the forum, the support has really been fantastic. OscarOrder placed for control unit, pump and hose adhesive. Many thanks for your help. The level of support and knowledge on this forum has been fantastic. I’ll let you know how I get on.
Given that my pump is a 30W model will the 40W generic replacement be OK or more likely to burn out the board?
Looking again I guess some female spade connectors like these would do the job RS PRO Red Insulated Terminal, 6.3 x 0.8mm Tab Size, 0.5mm² to 1.5mm² | RS Components (rs-online.com)
Great, many thanks. Excellent idea about the pump roof. The only question now is the pump. My pump – Akso Hanning EW DPS 25-047 30W – has parallel flat pins which connects to a single connector.
Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
Looking on the site for ISE pumps ISE Washing Machine Drain Pumps (ukwhitegoods.co.uk) I can see a universal one which is 40W but otherwise looks very similar Universal 40 Watt Askoll Drain Washing Machine Dishwasher Drain Pump (ukwhitegoods.co.uk), except that it has power connector pins which are perpendicular, so wouldn’t fit my single connector for two parallel pins. There’s an ISE pump but hard to make out whether it’s suitable 2801102100 ISE Washing Machine Drain Pump (ukwhitegoods.co.uk). Do you know where I can get suitable connectors if I were to go with the universal pump?Thanks, Dave, but that doesn’t look the same to me though, even though it says 1606W.
I’m still thinking of fixing up though. I was quite worried about the comments about leakage but I think I’ve traced it to the soap dispenser hose Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos. I think I think I’ll just mastic it rather than pay the £17 for the replacement, which will hopefully sort any leakage. I’ll replace the pump Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos with D422192 Askoll Drain Washing Machine Dishwasher Drain Pump (ukwhitegoods.co.uk) and the board of course ISE Washing Machine Electronic Control Modules (ukwhitegoods.co.uk).
My main concerns are whether the frequency converter module might be an issue 271991 Washing Machine Frequency Converter Module (ukwhitegoods.co.uk) as I don’t want to shell out for that was well, and whether I need to replace or clean the sump hose – not sure what the clear tube connected to it is but it looks quite scaled up Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos. I think all the scaling on the outside of the sump is from the soap dispenser leakage, at least I hope so.Ok so I’ve given it my best shot, slightly embarrassed by my amateur soldering. Turned the machine on and the pump turned continuously, which is more than previous, but no LEDs lighting up. I think Tubafan’s right about the front circuit. I’m not convinced the triac is right either.
Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
Before that I did check the pump contacts again and they were blackened, so I think Dave might be right about the pump.
Although the machine is 10 yrs old I hate to check it as the majority of the machine is probably fine and the wife likes it. So it’s now a choice between (a) Buy a new board for £246 and a pump for £30 and see if I can get another 5 years out of the beast. (1) Throw in the towel and invest in a new Bosch or similar which seem to have great reviews online. Any thoughts?Difficult to get to the pump and not much to see, but looks fine externally once disconnected
Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
Front PCB looks blackened but otherwise intact Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
If I were to try to repair the PCB, what’s the best way – solder a length of wire across the contacts to bridge where the track is blown? Doesn’t seem like there’s anything to lose 🙂I have a diagram and have photo’d the section of the board front and rear (which I’ve flipped so it corresponds) but I’m struggling to figure it out.
Circuit diagram Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
Front of board Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
Rear of board (flipped vertically) Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google PhotosI see that I can get a new board here for £246 235261 Washing Machine Control Unit (ukwhitegoods.co.uk)
Question now is, if I fit a new board is this likely to be a one off or is there another cause which will just result in it blowing again – from past experience?Having checked with a multimeter I believe the track from the centre pin of the triac to the variable resistor behind, and from the same VR pin to RD5 (behind RD11) are blown. Not sure my soldering skills are that accurate – is joining those with cable something that could be attempted by someone with suitable skills?
Looking closer, yes it appears so – new photos Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos , Photo in ISE10 1606W – Google Photos
