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Thanks for your suggestion on this problem. Sleeping on this problem and the lack of any burnt components on the board plus only a few months ago having had to replace the motor brushes I decided this morning to remove the motor just to double check the commutator and windings etc.. On doing so lo and behold the commutator, brushes and motor housing at that end were in a dreadful blackened state. Looking upwards at the outer drum where the motor is next to it is covered in blackened soot but does not appear damaged.
At this stage I suspect the brushes are not up to the job as I have not ever seen such a mess on a commutator but they were sold as the correct replacement. Whether the motor is now kaput as a result I do not as yet know but will update my post when all is clear. Thanks again for taking the time to reply.
JohnJust to complete this post (hopefully!)
The replacement sensor arrived a couple of days ago and was duly fitted. The washer fired straight up and has run five times fully since then.
I don’t think why this all happened will ever be known or why a failed sensor could be linked to a failed TNY both happening at exactly the same time. No other faults were found on the boards or elsewhere.
Still (if it continues to work!) a TNY at £3.16 plus a second hand sensor at £6.50 is a hell of a lot cheaper fix than the £500 plus for a replacement dishwasher my wife wanted me to buy.
Hope the post may help others, and thanks a lot Dave for all your help.
Regards
JohnThanks Dave.
After much measuring and delving The following has emerged:
1) The contacts on the board for the door switch sensor showed 13.7v on the output and 0v on the return (with or without the switch leads connected).
2) At the switch connector the reading on both leads was 0v. After much investigation I found that the terminal U clips that attach to the board connectors for these two leads were not clamping onto the contacts at the board end – hence the lack of voltage. Took off the bar of connectors at the board end and many of the clips were very open (?age ?heat). So compressed all the clips on this long connector to what they should have been to rectify any poor connections for other components.
3) Re-testing at switch connector now showed 13.7 v on one and 0 v on other. Bridging these connector clips (as if switch had made circuit) and remeasuring showed voltage on circuit reduced to 0v.
4) Error E06 remains constant no matter what I have tried so far.Given the information you provided above I suspect some item on the board to be faulty in terms of the door switch sensor
I have also ordered a switch sensor as I also suspect that given I cant get any Hall effect tests to get the sensor to react.
Any thoughts?
JohnThanks for the reply. Is the above applicable to the SMV65M00GB/44 which I have as there are so many conflicting bits of documentation on this E06 fault on the web? If so do you measure with the connector disconnected from the switch sensor?
Thanks
JohnHi Dave
Chip arrived today and now fitted. At first when switched on no high or low voltages at all! Then I bridged the two on/off pins on the board and turned board on at wall socket and the board fired up with 328v on the high and 14v on the low cap side of the circuit. disconnected the bridge wires and this time the board showed the correct voltage when switched at wall. Very happy at this point as many of the output connectors also showed 14v or 5v so went ahead and re-installed the board in the washer and after reconnecting everything pressed the on/off switch and display all lit up as normal with the buttons functioning as they should,
However if I go to start the machine, or just leave it powered on, it goes from displaying the 2:45 time for the cycle to display E06. This error seems on this machine to be door switch/ sensor failure (if you recall I said earlier I thought this hall effect sensor was not responding to magnet when closing door). Further testing of the sensor with a separate magnet gets no activation of the sensor. Even if I bridge out the sensor it still gives exactly the same E06 error so I think there may be a fault on the board with this sensor trigger.
So back to the drawing board (but at least have the board working in the main!). Any thoughts on what next to look at on the board to pin this down?
But thanks anyway for getting me to persist in changing the chip -you were very right to do so.
JohnHi Dave
The TNY chip is expected tomorrow but I thought best to carry out checking the other components as far as possible in case there is a failed component elsewhere on the board.
There are four of these blue suppression caps on the board and two are identical – and of one capacity. The other two are identical but with a different capacity. Therefore I pulled all four to test and compare against their twin component.I drained all 4 caps before measuring and measured all off the board.
Two are B81122 Y2 MKP/SH and read identically as 23nF so happy they seem ok.
The other two are B32922 X2 MKP/SH but one of these reads 13.7nF and the other reads 183nF – almost 14 times more in value.
Looking at various specs and datasheets I cant get a definitive capacitance quoted to know which is right.
Any ideas gratefully received as to whether either of these are faulty and could be causative – or resultant – of the power outage on the board. The one with the 183nF is connected via various traces to both the frequently burnt out 100 ohm resistor and also to the TNY 264GN chip.You are absolutely right Dave I am always looking in too much depth instead of trying the simple first! Have ordered a tny so will report back when fitted. Thanks again.
JohnDave can you explain what you said below in layman’s terms for me –
“the coil is a transformer
if the chip is not oscillating then its dc and transformers need ac”?
I have now also removed the door sensor and no matter how I try to test it using a magnet I can get no response on the multimeter for rither continuity oir resistance. I expected it to be a reed switch but it is a hall effect triac when I look at the small board in it so no idea how to see if that is working to eliminate it beyond the magnet test I have done!
If this sensor is indeed failed (as it appears) it seems a big coincidence that the power board failed at exactly the same moment with not a single sign of failed or burnt components on the board and no dry joints or broken traces. Will look further into this tomorrow before starting to un-solder smd’s from the board and replacing them.
Thanks again for the ongoing advice – its much appreciated.
JohnDave can you explain this in laymans terms for me –
“the coil is a transformerif the chip is not oscillating then its dc and transformers need ac”
Here is a link to the photo (hopefully!!)
If you get this can you tell me what the coil does and why it could have 328v on one side but 0v on the other pins?Photo wont upload even when I reduce its size as I get a message saying only have 1.1kb left for user group??
Hi Dave
Tested some of the components you asked for above ( see photo – BUT this is not my board and shows faulty components so ignore those as mine has none of those faults evident)
The large cap shows 328 volts but the small cap shows 0v.
The tny shows 328v at its input but all other pins show 0v
The small coil which ( in my ignorance) seems to be the feed for the small cap shows 328v on one side but 0v on the other side.
All the diodes I could identify tested OK ( but that is in circuit).
Have not retested the door sensor as yet but I am fairly sure that looks faulty by previous tests.
Any thoughts on the above findings or ideas on further test to do.
Many thanks again for all of the help
John
