Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: Whirlpool AWO 6927 – replace bearings?
This old machine is going to the tip (or to where-ever John Lewis recycle their white goods) on Tuesday. It is only a few years old, and is otherwise in a nice and tidy condition, so if anyone would like it for spares, or would like me to take anything off for spares, please shout now.
— Jason
Re: Whirlpool AWO 6927 – replace bearings?
iadom wrote:Lower end Gorenje, Amica.
Mid price range Bosch,Siemens.
Top quality ISE or Miele.We had a Bosh last time, and the motor burnt out (the coils shorted to ground somewhere internally). We had a Miele Pet vacuum, and the motor burnt out. The motor is also on its way out on the CDA oven. Someone on this forum [kindly] had a spare Bosh motor going, just a day after we gave the old machine away on Freecyle and ordered the Whirlpool. We may have still been using that now if I wasn’t in such a rush. We did go for the same model of vacuum again, but with an extended warranty. That way we have the old machine for all its spare parts.
We have a thing about motors not liking us 😉
Thanks for the list. The Bosh was certainly quiet, so we may look into one of those again.
Re: Whirlpool AWO 6927 – replace bearings?
iadom wrote:
Better still, search out a local independent retailer, you may pay a pound or two more but you will get far better service and he/she will know exactly what is under the lid. 😉True. I do go out of my way to support the local traders when I can for any products.
Re: Whirlpool AWO 6927 – replace bearings?
I couldn’t work it out at first, but the belt had starting riding off the centre of the main wheel, towards the drum. So far, in fact, that it had started cutting groves into the rear of the outer drum.
I could not see how that would be, as the motor was still in the same place. Then I realised the internal drum had dropped half an inch. It can be lifted up that far. The rear wheel was sloping towards the front of the machine and that was causing the belt to drift off. On spin, the drum was knocking around all over the place.
It’s a gonna alright.
Any recommendations what to go for now? Any makes to avoid like the plague? I do like to do my research before buying a new machine, but the pressure will be on me now to “just get it done”, as it is used every day :-/
Re: Whirlpool AWO 6927 – replace bearings?
Yeah, I looked again. The clips I can see are just for the initial alignment of two halves. I guess it is glue that actually holds it together.
There is water dripping from the outer/rear bearings now.
A shame really. I liked the programmes on that thing, and the countdown timer was brilliantly handy – never had a machine with one of those before, and never realised just how handy it was for fitting the loading and unloading into a busy life.
Anyone want any spares? 😉
Lesson learned: before I buy a replacement, check online to see if replacement bearings are available.
Re: Whirlpool AWO 6927 – replace bearings?
Okay, I’ve managed to take a look now. It looks like the outer drum is in two halves, clipped together. I can’t see any screws or bolts holding the two halves, but just a few clips.
The drum managed to shake the belt off the drive wheel today, so it is really having a hard time.
I’ll post a picture shortly.
Larger picture: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonjudge/7116764473/sizes/l/in/photostream/
Re: Whirlpool AWO 6927 – replace bearings?
What specifically would I be looking for? I have had the back open, and can see what looks like a bearing behind the main drive wheel. Is there any way to tell from the front?
Edit: ah, *outer* drum. Does the outer drum need to split into two parts to get at the spinning drum inside? Would I be looking for the join?
I can’t find bearings for that model on any site, which is not reassuring. However, I also cannot find any reference to whole sealed drums for that model either. A certain “master of parts” website does have a “wash unit” for the AWOD 6927 S, for a smidgen under the cost of a new machine, so perhaps that’s the sealed drum? No photos or description of that spare though.
It is amazing how I could put my own washing machine together just from spares, and it would only cost about two grand :-/
Re: Bosch WFL2000 tripping house RCD
I tried phoning around and could not find anywhere that kept old machines or parts any more. There was once a time when a place near Newcastle would always have a spare part they could pull from a machine in their warehouse, but alas our modern *consume/dispose* culture does not allow for reuse any more.
To cut a long story short: I put it up on freecycle, where it was snapped up in minutes. Seems there are a lot of people out there with duff drums and good motors.
I’ve ordered a new machine, which should arrive tomorrow. These credit-crunch times seem to be the *best* time for buying white goods since the market is so competitive (until *too many* suppliers go out of business, that is).
Thanks for your help all, yet again. I’ll leave the photos up indefinitely in case they are of help to others.
— Jason
Re: Bosch WFL2000 tripping house RCD
The carbon came out pretty easy with a small paint brush and compressed air. Having removed the armature, I’ve found it has a short-circuit from the coils to the chassis, so I think it is a goner.
In this picture, the two copper-coloured spots in the dead centre of the picture are bare copper – the insulation just fell off.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8461387@N0 … 8/sizes/m/
— Jason
helo_75 wrote:if that motor even runs, or lasts more than a wekk, ill platt fog!
It doesn’t run, so you are okay.
I have dismantled the motor completely and there is a dead short between the coils and the shaft. One of the coils looks like it has overheated as the insulation on it has gone black and crispy.
Now, just a theory – but if the brushes got low enough, could that have caused the motor to stick and burn out just one coil to the point where its insulation failed? Or does this kind of thing ‘just happen’ to motors anyway?
— Jason
PS I think I just accidentally clicked ‘ignore’ against your username, what with the button being right next to ‘reply’. I’m not sure how to undo that.
Re: Bosch WFL2000 tripping house RCD
Hi,
I took the motor out and cleaned out the dust and carbon from around all the electrical bits:
I suspect the brushes are a little worn down:
This has led to some scoring down the middle of the armature contacts:
All pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8461387@N0 … 860358073/
However, after all that cleaning and checking of the cables etc. it still trips the RCD the moment the motor tries to turn. Unless there is something else I can look at, I suspect this will be a write-off. With new motors seemingly running at £150, it probably looks like a whole new washer would be better value (Bosch WAE28364GB £400? Whirlpool AWO/D 6927 £307).
Unless anyone has any ideas or knows where I can get a cheaper replacement motor from?
— Jason
Re: Bosch WDL2000 tripping house RCD
Phidom wrote:The two most common components that cause the RCD to trip when faulty are the motor and the heater element…
It no longer trips when the motor is disconnected. What would be the next step? Removing the motor and giving it a good clean? Could this kind of fault just be caused by a build-up of carbon dust?
There are a few spots of rust on the underside of the motor, but that looks like it has been splashed up from the underside rather than water dripped through from the top. Otherwise, apart from the wires and connector being covered in carbon dust, it looks clean and tidy.
So – to clean the motor or replace it? Is this always going to be a replace/part exchange job, caused by insulation breakdown?
— Jason
Re: Bosch WDL2000 tripping house RCD
Phidom wrote:…It would only need it’s neutral terminal to be connected as the RCD can detect earth leakage to neutral…
Okay, so it’s just switched on the live. Makes sense.
— Jason
Re: Bosch WDL2000 tripping house RCD
Thanks for the quick response. I’ll check both these today.
Just a quick question: the machine trips the power within seconds of starting the programme. The motor is on, but the water is still filling up. I assume the heating element would not be turned on until the machine is full, so is it more likely to be the motor then?
— Jason
