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Hello all,
We had an issue today where the tumble dryer, after being on for around 15-20mins tripped the RCD in our consumer unit, breaker wasnt tripped.
The model number is DX C9DGB-80 and the below summarises what I have tried so far:
– Tested the tumble by turning wall plug on (when in one of the “on” programmes on dial) in another socket and the same thing happened, tripped rcd immediately
– Tested the tumble by turning wall plug on (when diall was set to “off” on the dial) in another socket and the same thing happened, tripped rcd immediately
– Removed the top of tumble and visually checked the mains filter/suppresor for any signs of issue (couldn’t see any)
– I then disconnected the internally wiring from the filter/suppressor so nothing internally was getting power except the filter/suppressor, I then plugged the tumble back in and it did not tripThe PCB board for mine appears to be this – https://www.hooverspares.co.uk/tumbl…l_ref=13848910
Where I planned to go next was to try and isolate the problem further by unplugging the different elements from the PCB board with it fully cabled back up. However I can’t see to find a board diagram or any idea of how to isolate this further?
One other question I have, is the test of unplugging the internal wiring to the filter/suppressor a good test to confirm that isn’t the problem? I had thought it must be this as it tripped even with the tumble set to off?
Any help appreciated!
Thanksbefore you go anywhere take the rear cover off and check the heater. had same problem the other day and it was a bra wire touching the heater
Dave
electrofix wrote:before you go anywhere take the rear cover off and check the heater. had same problem the other day and it was a bra wire touching the heater
Dave
Thanks Dave
I have taken off the rear heat cover and check for anything in that area, nothing obvious although quite a bit of fluff I cleaned off before pics were taken. The heater connectors on one look a little odd so have put some pictures below to show what I mean – other than this nothing looks out of the ordinary to me.
it looks ok at a glance
have a look inside the heater and make sure all the elements look in place and there is no fluff anywhere it should not be
Dave
electrofix wrote:it looks ok at a glance
have a look inside the heater and make sure all the elements look in place and there is no fluff anywhere it should not be
Dave
Thanks Dave
Heater itself inside is clean, all elements fine with no foreign objects or any fluff in that bit.
well the next thing i would try is
re secure heater
remove both wires from the heater statsturn on and see if it trips
if fan is on be careful it cant catch
heater will not come on so there is no problem running with cover offwas wondering if one of the stats had a problem. you could also use a multi meter if you have one
Dave
electrofix wrote:well the next thing i would try is
re secure heater
remove both wires from the heater statsturn on and see if it trips
if fan is on be careful it cant catch
heater will not come on so there is no problem running with cover offwas wondering if one of the stats had a problem. you could also use a multi meter if you have one
Dave
Thanks – will test with the heater unplugged this morning.
I do have a multi-meter and so can test things but not sure what is best – I did try a continuity test on the plug before when everything inside was untouched and it had tripped the RCD the last time. Tested earth/neutral, earth/live and neutral/live and just stayed at 1 on the multimeter.
you need to set meter on a high ohm setting and check to earth
unplug one of the stats, both wires. place one multimeter lead on one of the stat terminals and the other on the heater metal casing. you should not get any reading at all. always test your meter is working by touching leads together first .Dave
electrofix wrote:you need to set meter on a high ohm setting and check to earth
unplug one of the stats, both wires. place one multimeter lead on one of the stat terminals and the other on the heater metal casing. you should not get any reading at all. always test your meter is working by touching leads together first .Dave
Thanks again Dave for your input.
I have managed to test some things today –
– Set multimeter to highest ohm setting (2000k)
– unplugged one of the stats (both wires) with one multimeter lead on one of the stat terminals and the other on the heater metal casing
– then repeated for the other one (plugging other stats back in)
– This resulted in no change at all to reading for bothI then unplugged both stats and then looked to plug machine back in to see if it would trip and it didn’t – but given the recent work (cleaning up pcb board and also the heater stats), I plugged all back in and tested – this time no tripping and working fine!
So either the cleaning up of the pcb board, or the heater connections has done the trick. My limited knowledge on this is thinking that either was shorted with some wet fluff, by cleaning and then it having time to dry may have sorted the problem? Not sure but keeping an eye on it in middle of room running a few cycles before putting back in situ.
Thanks again for your help
Just to follow up on this already, although the dryer is no longer tripping anything I have noticed a problem with it running out from under the worktop in our utility room.
It has after the first run left a puddle at the back of the dryer on the floor, I thought it was from the heater cover but it seems it’s coming from inside the machine itself. This may explain the issues if water is getting inside and causing a short.
The picture shows where it is leaking from, I have checked the condenser and that was cleaned not long ago, I have also removed the plastic connector underneath the dryer where the under-tray slots into to look for any blockages and it is clear. I can only assume there is an issue from the condenser to the under-tray that I can’t see? Unless there are other places the water can leak from?
could be steam getting into the case and condensing
take the lid off and run it with clothes in and see if you can see any steam when things get hot. i use my glasses as a sensor but you could use a small mirror
Dave
electrofix wrote:could be steam getting into the case and condensing
take the lid off and run it with clothes in and see if you can see any steam when things get hot. i use my glasses as a sensor but you could use a small mirror
Dave
Just an update on this, I have confirmed the water is coming from what appears to be a overflow pipe that comes out under the fan in the picture above. After running the machine and then taking off the heater cover, the water is building up in there and slowly making it’s way out from the seal – but you can see in the pics below it is such that the fan itself is getting wet, not sure if water level or just the condensation from the water in there with the heater on. It must be for a reason but it seems an odd place for the overflow.
This leads me to believe that the normal route from the condenser, where it drops into the water collector is blocked or partially blocked so it is running into the overflow? The water collector has had water when we have run the machine recently so not completely blocked. Would this be a possible issue? I have tried to get into the area with fingers etc but it doesnt seem a simple drop straight down but seems to run across and then back? it’s difficult to troubleshoot as no pipes etc just moulded plastic covered by the base of the device. I have looked for guides etc but struggling to work out what’s going on.
The water getting on the fan blade will explain the tripping on your dryer the water flicks from fan blade up onto heater, to find where the possible leak is will intail a strip down the drum will need to be removed and you can gain access to the float and the switch
that hole is not an overflow its to drain away any water in the fan chamber
As K said you need to take the drum out and inpect the pump as its possible its overfilling and not pumping the water to the draw
Dave
Thanks both
What do you mean by float and switch?
Also what pump would that be on this model?
I had assumed the water just flowed through the condenser, through the “drop hole” at the back and then via the water container valve and into the water container below. The reason I thought it was an overflow pipe is that the drop-hole and that pipe are in the same section so if the drop-hole is blocked then water would run to that hole. Seems an odd design to me whatever the case is!
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