Home › Forums › Public Support Forums › Help And Support › Tumble Dryer Help Forum › Hotpoint Aquarius Rear Condenser Pump Not Kicking In
- This topic has 9 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 4 years ago by
David Hughes.
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March 24, 2022 at 9:37 am #100687
David Hughes
ParticipantI have a Hotpoint AQC9 BF7 E tumble dryer. Has been leaking water from underneath. Recently decided to clean out fluff from the rear chamber where the condenser pump is located. The rubber impeller had broken too – so fixed that. Continued to leak water and the pump was running intermittently, so decided to replace the pump with a new one. However, now both the new and old pump do not kick in and no water is being collected in the top water tray.
Have confirmed that the float switch is OK (using a multi-meter in continuity mode) and have detected voltages in the connectors for the pump (approx 16v) and the switch (approx 25v). I think it would be really unlucky if both pumps were dead. Is there something else that could be stopping the pump from turning on? Slightly confused why both might not be working when there is a voltage in the connector. Thanks!
March 24, 2022 at 9:50 am #481760electrofix
Moderatorwell the pump is energised by the board in response to either time or the float micro
if you lift the float does the display show water full ? you may have to leave it a few minutes as it may not be instant
Dave
March 24, 2022 at 9:58 am #481761David Hughes
ParticipantIf I turn on a cycle currently, I just keep getting the h20 error and the machine stops. Presume the h20 error is because the float switch is activated.
March 24, 2022 at 10:12 am #481762electrofix
Moderatorwell that proves the board is sensing the switch
check the pump wiring to the board and inspect board for damage in the circuit that controls the pump
Dave
April 25, 2022 at 9:08 am #481763David Hughes
ParticipantStill no joy with getting this to work. I did find some minor damage to the pump power cable which I fixed with electrical tape (caused by cable jammed in the pump enclosure. Is there a way I can test the pump/switch is working separately to the machine? Im perplexed…if the pump and switch is working and the connectors are verified to be receiving power from the tumble fryer…what else could it be?
April 25, 2022 at 9:12 am #481764electrofix
Moderatorbe careful
when you raise the full switch the pump on some machines does not kick in straight away and may take 5 minswhen you say the pump sw i assume you mean the container full sw. that can be checked with a multi meter on the buzz setting
Dave
April 25, 2022 at 9:37 am #481765David Hughes
ParticipantHi Dave,
I’ll try holding the switch for 5 minutes or so to see whether it kicks in. However, something isn’t working properly because when I run a cycle I keep getting the H20 error and the tumble dryer cuts out. The tubes leading to the water try are free of blockages.
Any ideas of anything else I could try?
April 25, 2022 at 11:29 am #481766electrofix
Moderatorhave you looked at the board, found the pump connections and
A verified the pump wiring
B looked at the board for damage to pump control componentsDave
April 25, 2022 at 12:43 pm #481767David Hughes
ParticipantFrom doing some further research, it suggests that there are 3 water collection spaces….the tray that you empty, the box with the pump in at the rear and another area prior to this inside the condenser….could be possible that water is trapped in the first collection area and that’s why I am getting the h20 error. Maybe the pump is in fact functioning. How can I access this first water collection area? Any ideas? It might be full of fluff…
April 25, 2022 at 2:23 pm #481768electrofix
Moderatorsince the sensor is next to the pump I doubt thats a problem
the way I test most of these is with the lid off and the draw out. pour a few cups of water into the tray (slowly).This will travel down the return pipe directly to the pump area. it should then pump it back up again
still think the way you are telling it the fault may lie in the board or wiring to pump
Dave
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