Hygena Select (APL 8224) not draining

Re: Hygena Selecta not draining

Sponged out the water, cleaned all the “bottom part” filters etc… tried it again and still won’t drain.

The unit is built in… and it came with the house, so I don’t have any info on it at all.

I am proficient with tools etc, just need a bit of info on where to look etc… do I need to remove the unit from its fittings to get at the drain pump to check that?

PS no local service people registered in my area, and the MFI website if absolutely useless…

Re: Hygena Selecta not draining

Ok, accepted… but does anyone know where I can get a parts diagram from?

Re: Hygena Select (APL 8224) not draining

Hi,

I have spent more time trying to diagnose the problem with this machine, and all the pump pipes and the pump its self are clear from blockages.

I stripped the side panel down and checked the “maze” that the water flows through and that controls the switch for the incoming water, and there was a little bit of muck in there, but most “circuits flowed cleanly under pressure from the garden hose.

I then took the cover off the top of the door and set the door-closed switch to shut with the door open so I could watch what was going on… and to my surprise the drain cycle started working occasionally, not every time, and not in a predictable way. This got me thinking that the problem lies either with the door-closed switch, or the timer control module.

I could not find a point in the drain cycle where the drain always worked, and I could not find a position on the door-closed switch that made the draining work either.

Does anyone have any ideas as to how I can diagnose this further?

If it drains sometimes, I am thinking it’s NOT the drain pump motor…

Also what would a control module and/or door-closed switch cost for this machine?

Thanks in advance.
Kevin

Re: Hygena Select (APL 8224) not draining

Is the thermal cut-out switch located just below the heating element? If so, then I did find that there was a poor connection on one of the wires going to this. It was almost as if the heating/cooling process combined with the corrosion of the contact had stretched the crimping on the connector as this wire would fall off with gravitational force alone… I “tweaked” the connector and put it back in place, could it be a poor connection causing this behaviour?

Regarding the “live” test… on this model there are no electronics visible when this plastic shrowd is removed, it merely gives one access to the door handle… I know what you’re saying and agree that live electrical tests shouldn’t be done, but common sense does allow some latitude in that area… :rolls: