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The new timer arrived and has been fitted. It makes no difference. The machine still does not finish a cycle. It starts and washes the clothes, the water heats up but it stops just before a rinse or on the rinse cycle. If turned off and back on may start again or may just sit there. So it was not the timer. Are there relays on the PCB?
Re: Hoover AL130
How many threads have you got running here over your AL130 anyway? Confusion reigns as a result because we don’t know what was discussed earlier..blimey! 😕
Stops on the rinse eh?……I gather you’ve taken the drum out too……and you replaced the timer because?……..Probably the wire to the cold water valve is broken or disconnected I would imagine?
Re: Hoover AL130
As the machine bearing were gone. I changed the bearings. When testing the machine my wife told me it only worked on one or two programs. I posted this and was told the timer needs replacing. The time was then replaced and still the fault exists so it is not the timer. Rather than used old threads I have started a new one, no point in using an old thread that says, replace the timer or how do I take the drum out. Bearing change wil not effect the program cycle. The cold water valve is fine and continuity exists in the wiring of the cold water valve. Insulation resistance has been tested and this is also good across the majority of the loom. The cold water valve coil has been tested and is good, also swopped out with another one. Bearings have been changed, timer changed so what next. What about relays the board? The circuit board it’s self, pressure switch???
Penguin45 wrote:
It’ll be the timer at fault. These machines use a motorised selector switch or “timer” to tell the computer what to do. Random running round and failure to complete are classic problems. P/no 91201337, spares@ukwhitegoods.co.uk will get you one promptly.Penguin45.
Re: Hoover AL130
Also when it stops there is 230V (Uo) to supply to both the hot and cold water inlet valves. It stops working just before a rise cycle. If I turn the machine off for a bit sometimes it starts but sometimes not. If it does start it goes into the rinse cycle but then stops again. It is now stopped in a rinse cycle and 230 V to both inlet valves. Why if both valves are powered does it not fill with water?
Re: Hoover AL130
Hi: You really shouldn’t be live testing a machine, it’s not something we encourage. Have you checked the continuity of the valves? Also have you checked the heater and the wiring to it? Did you have the problem before you changed the bearings or has it only happened since? Have you actually taken the wires off the valves & checked them for continuity or done it with the wiring connected, if the problem has only happened since you replaced the bearings I would be looking at wrongly connected or broken wiring.
PLEASE REMEMBER POWER OFF & PLUG OUT BEFORE WORKING ON THE MACHINE.Re: Hoover AL130
Many thanks
The bearing change went rather smoothly if not time consuming. The problem was there before the bearing change! I was only told about it after I had ordered the bearings. It does not seem to want to enter a spin cycle. It drains fine. I think it may do a spin before entering rinse and sometimes through a rinse. If this is so then that is when it stops, at the spin just before rinse. It worked twice after the timer went in, with a spin. Now it is back to before the bearing change. It was used on program 4 as the others weren’t working before the bearing change (I am now informed). Prog 4 now stops just before rinse as all progs do.
No one should EVER DO LIVE TESTING. I have the correct tools, I am an elecrician and an engineering technician. I am protected with various devices and test circuits most the day long. NEVER DO LIVE TESTING if you are not qualified and expirienced.
Continuity accross the valves is about 3k. Heater is fine as it gets hot, all other wiring fine. All electrical connections seem good.
So has anyone got a wiring diagram or circuit board diagram? Which relay starts the spin cycle? Why do the inlet valves have Uo but remain closed? What happens if I take the tube off the pressure switch?Re: Hoover AL130
ratdogfink wrote:Why do the inlet valves have Uo but remain closed?
Don’t know what Uo is but I’d change the cold water valve if I were you. 😉
Re: Hoover AL130
He already changed the cold water valve & tested coil continuity on the new 1 @ 3k, seems to have done a lot of things without success, 2 things I can’t see having been done are: 1) As Helo said insulation test on heater (we all know what wonderful games leaky heaters can cause)
2) Check wiring to the motor for continuity & especially giving it a slight tug on each wire at the motor end.The other thing he doesn’t mention is has it fully drained the water out of the tub, if not then obviously the pump etc needs checking
Uo Voltage of supply.
Re: Hoover AL130
ratdogfink wrote:Also when it stops there is 230V (Uo) to supply to both the hot and cold water inlet valves. It stops working just before a rise cycle. If I turn the machine off for a bit sometimes it starts but sometimes not. If it does start it goes into the rinse cycle but then stops again. It is now stopped in a rinse cycle and 230 V to both inlet valves. Why if both valves are powered does it not fill with water?
O.K what you are saying there doesn’t make any sense, if the valves have a confirmed supply to them & they are both working then if the water is turned on at the taps they have to let in water, you appear to have proved that the valves work as you say it washes but only stops when you get to the rinse part of the cycle.
Did you check the 230v at the valves with them connected to the wiring? If not what you might be seeing is a Ghost or Phantom voltage seen this more than once when checking with a Digi, If in doubt check with a cheap Analogue or test lamp. Hope your checking L / N & not L / E on each valve by the way.Re: Hoover AL130
Specialist01269 wrote:He already changed the cold water valve & tested coil continuity on the new 1 @ 3k
Oh has he?…I’ve lost track now of what’s going on TBH. 😉
I’m sticking to my theory that the cold valve is duff though. 8)
Figure this, you need more than 240v and 3K coil resistance to make a valve work, if it’s duff, it’s just like the old grey mare, show it water and the darn thing wont drink.:?
Re: Hoover AL130
Many thanks for all the replies. I have two spare valves and both of these have been used to no avail, one valve I know is good.
I have now taken out the drain pump and cleaned all hoses and pipes and the drain pump. I have checked the water valves, both sides of the coil to earth and getting 230 V (Uo nominal voltage) also water to each. Live to neutral will not show up much and checked connected to the wiring or you wouldn’t get 230!. This is on both hot and cold water vales. The only way this must work is if both valves get voltage to them and the switching is done on the return side of the wiring. Thus power to inlet valves but no current to make them open unless switched. Machine still does not enter spin cycle and after I cleaned the drain pump now it will not fill with water. So this is what I think:-
The pressure switch is karfut, doesn’t let water in and stops machine from spinning as it thinks it’s full of water!! In fact now I typed it and read it back is seems more logical. Pressure switch not switching inlet vales and stopping spin as it thinks the machine is full of water even when it is completely drained and drain pump working. Can this happen? I have tested the pressure switch and have four contacts on the pressure switch. Only 3 contacts are wired. The three wired contacts are all normally open. There are two contacts close together and one separate. The two close together, red wire and yellow wire only short together after the switch has clicked and with MORE pressure than needed to make it click. The blue wire goes to the further away contact and connects to both the other two contacts with pressure, connecting to the red wire with again more pressure than needed to operate the switch. Also the yellow wire is in fact two wires together piggy backed by contacts.
Questions on the pressure switch.
Should all 3 contacts be normally open? Should all 3 contacts short with pressure applied? Should 2 contacts only short with MORE pressure than that to operate the switch? Can the pressure switch operate the spin cycle or will it not allow spin if there is water in the drum?
Thanks again for the help.
Also live testing done with prooved earth via 10ma fast trip RCD, touch voltage 25V (the most you can get is 10ma and 25 V in 200ms.Re: Hoover AL130
Just a quickie.
Have not meggaed the heater, I took the megga back to work as I don’t like it round the house (kids). I will try to get it! Continuity seems OK. The heater should not be in circuit when draining or entering a spin (by assumption not knowledge ). I tested continuity of the motor, new brushes went in about a year ago. It is a series wound with 6 wires. I take it one pair for forward and reveres coils and armature coil and two wires for speed control. I forget the results but were not short or open. I can check again if I had some sort of value. Don’t think its the motor as it works both ways with no sparks!
Still no spin and now on water coming in. Drain clear, drain pump clean. Goes through the wash cycle abut stops just before rise or spin. (pressure switch?????)
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