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I have a WDD960GUKC which isn’t working correctly.
Whenever I try to run a wash cycle it initially starts to fill with water, the drum turns a few times, then nothing. After a short while the display says “no water – check supply”, rather than a fault code.
I have a feeling that one of the solenoid valves is not working – either due to a fault with the solenoid, or a problem with the supply to it.
While I have sourced a replacement part, I do not want to order if it is an electrical issue, and not a faulty solenoid.Can anyone tell me if there is a method to identify whether it is an electrical fault?
I have a basic tester but need to know which solenoid of the three could be at fault, and what readings I can expect at the terminal?A little bit of sleuthing has revealed the following –
When the water starts to flow initially it is from the middle solenoid – if I disconnect when open it stops, plug it back in and water flows.
If I swap the plug for the middle solenoid onto the front one (at the same point in the cycle above) it activates this solenoid.
When I test for voltage at the back solenoid it is showing 240v (as it does on the middle one, when active) but nothing seems to happen.If I test for resistance on the front and middle solenoid it shows 3.9 (on 20k scale on my meter), but on the rear one it shows an open circuit.
This makes me believe that it is the rear solenoid at fault so I may well take the plunge and get the replacement part, but if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.
from that information it does sound like a solenoid is faulty
valves are not that expensive
I get
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/d120…er-inlet-valveas the correct one but check before ordering
Dave
I have found the right one at a reasonable price so have gone ahead and ordered it. For the price I have paid, I’m not too bothered if it doesn’t rectify the fault.
What does concern me is the reason behind removing the manufatured socket on the faulty valve, and why the plug has been replaced with spade connectors.I guess I will find out either way next week when the part arrives and I fit it – hopefully a new replacement machine isn’t on the horizon, as if the replacement part doesn’t work, I guess it is the control board, and its not worth replacing that…
the only reason that normally happens is if someone has replace just the coil of the valve with a second hand one to make the job cheaper
dave
Quick update. I have replaced the valves and water is now flowing in as it should, but i now have a further issue…
The water coming in will not stop. It kept filling to about 3/4 of the way up the door and then the drain pump operates. It drains some water out but it then keeps filling! I have to disconnect the valve nearest the back to stop the water coming in.
I’m guessing there is also an issue with the water level sensor, which is why it doesn’t cut out?
I notice there is a circular part at the front of the machine, inside the top on the right hand side. This has a small hose coming from the bottom, which goes down the side of the drum. Is this what lets the machine know there is enough water in it, and is there a way of testing it?
I guess that can be replaced too, but that is the limit of my spending before getting something else completely.It does, yes.
BUT….If I put it on a drain cycle it starts pumping water out, then the water starts filling again so I’m leaning towards a main board fault…well a new board can only be fitted and programmed by hotpoint
you could ask EMW electronics if they can test and repair or re programme the board if needed
Dave
If it is the main board I am done with it and not throwing any more money at it. I got the machine for 20 quid and didn’t mind the extra for the valves to see if it helps, but reluctant to spend much more.
So my previous question stands – have I identified the correct part to investigate, and how do I test it??well it looks like you may have an old style pressure switch like
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/c00145174-washing-machine-pressure-switch
if yes you can blow into the switch and it should click at least once maybe twice. it is no more then an air operated switch so you can check continuity with a multi meter
if its the later type with a small milti wire connection don’t blow it or its toast
Dave
Thought I had commented with the picture but don’t seem to see it.
this represents what I currently have and it has 3 pins but a small connector block with 6 thin blue wires attached.
I have blown through the tube when disconnected from the switch and it bubbles in the drum, so I’m assuming it is not blocked or has leaks.
I want to test the switch before replacing it but I’m not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure how to perform this test. I’m guessing to test for continuity with an empty drum and check for a change as it is filling but no idea which combinations of pins will give me a result.a lot of these older units have numbered contact and the number go up in tens the higher the pressure needed to activate it
so the first set of contacts are numbered 11 12 and 13 then 21 22 23 and goes on if more levels are needed
in your case I would expect 2 levels level 1 starts 11 and the upper level level will be used to activate the pump
this is similar but your switch has more then 1 contact
Dave
Thanks for that Dave, the vid gives me a better idea of what to look for.
I’m not about to start blowing into the unit to test it as I know I can ruin it if I do, so I will be testing it with the water filling the machine and will post my results in a little while.
P.S. I know people always say “always unplug the machine” but I used to be an electrician, so I’m not going to fry myself!!Testing results –
There are 3 terminals on the pressure switch.
I am calling them 1, 2 and 3 from left to right as you look at the switch with the hose at the 6 o’clock position.
They are marked : 1 = 14, 2 = 11, 3 = 16Test 1
Machine off and drained of water
1 & 2 = Open circuit
1 & 3 = Open circuit
2 & 3 = Open circuitTest 2
Machine on and set to rinse cycle.
As it starts to fill and the water level raises
1 & 2 = Closed circuit
1 & 3 = Open circuit
2 & 3 = Open circuitAs it continues to fill and the water raises to above the half way point of the empty drum there is no change in the open/closed status as listed above. As the switch is not connected to the machine it then shows the following message on the screen: “No water, check supply”
Based on the above results I initially came to the conclusion that the first stage of the switch works and the machine knows that there is water entering the machine, but stage 2 isn’t working and the machine does not know to close the valve and stop the water coming in, so I was about to order a new pressure switch, BUT………
When I paused the cycle the water continued flowing, and when I pressed the power button the display went blank other than the lock cyle AND the water kept flowing!!!
Therefore, it is my belief that it is in fact a main board problem, unless I am missing/overlooking something?
It was a cheap machine from a friend of my parents, and we only got it due to our tumble drier frying itself and having no method of drying clothes after being washed.
I guess I’ll just go back to our original machine, which worked fine, and simply get hold of another tumble dryer.Thanks for all the help and guidance, much appreciated.
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