CATA (I think) Single Oven – UBOVF60 No Heat

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  • #96725
    asp11
    Participant

    This is a basic oven with a selector, timer and stat only….. The oven bulb went at the same time as this error.

    The element is fine, all the wiring is fine, the switch has no burnt wires or connectors…. I have checked each wire from the switch to element, switch to stat, one side of the switch to the other and tmer plus have by-passed a toc and the stat but still nothing

    It really can’t not work in my opinion, I have done the same checks 3 times in case I missed something – it just should work but it doesn’t

    Any ideas please as I must be overlooking something here!!??

    #464587
    electrofix
    Moderator

    first check for live and neutral coming in

    then buzz it through one wire at a time. starts at the term block and buzz the wire all the way to the element. disconnect one wire of every component so you don’t get confused with back feeds

    the switch contacts may look ok but did you buzz across the switch to make sure

    Dave

    #464588
    Specialist01269
    Participant

    Apologies if you’ve already done this, but there’s no mention of checking that you actually have 240v in to the appliance.

    #464589
    asp11
    Participant

    Yes there is mains coming in and getting to the switch….. with the machine dead, I put my meter leads on the oven element, turned the switch and it bleeped so in theory the switch n wires should be good… thats why I’m confuded about my findings??

    #464590
    Specialist01269
    Participant

    Sorry: Now I’m confused, what bleeped ? Do you mean your Multimeter ?. You need to see what voltage is on the display to know what is actually hitting the element, not rely on a beep to indicate voltage.

    #464591
    Specialist01269
    Participant

    Specialist01269 wrote:Sorry: Now I’m confused, what bleeped ? Do you mean your Multimeter ?. You need to see what voltage is on the display to know what is actually hitting the element, not rely on a beep to indicate voltage.

    Maybe a daft question, but are you sure that the timer is set to manual ?.

    #464592
    electrofix
    Moderator

    as you realise you need to get a live and neutral before an element will work. the switch switches both live and neutral so a faulty contact on either of them will cause it not to work
    if it was me I would teat live.
    turn on mains, set timer to manual , turn oven selector switch on and turn up stat if separate

    then go to the element . we need to find out whats missing so you will either have 2 lives or 2 neutrals. as you realise whichever you have its the other one that’s not there

    still think its most likely a switch fault

    Dave

    #464593
    Specialist01269
    Participant

    Totally agree, take it your old school as well then Dave ?. That’s the way I was taught (many moons ago), a couple of quick live tests can save an awful lot of guesswork.

    #464594
    electrofix
    Moderator

    Specialist01269 wrote:Totally agree, take it your old school as well then Dave ?. That’s the way I was taught (many moons ago), a couple of quick live tests can save an awful lot of guesswork.

    was connecting to electric meters live at age 17
    those were the days

    Dave

    #464595
    Specialist01269
    Participant

    Aye, they certainly were

    #464596
    asp11
    Participant

    Thanks guys, you might be correct about the switch

    Even though when turned to work the oven I’m getting a reaction at the element, when live it may not…. I’ll go back to test it again

    #464597
    Specialist01269
    Participant

    When you say reaction, can you explain ?. If you have a circuit through the element, probably in the region of 25 to 40 Ohms and 240v at the element connections with the element connected then your element should heat.
    In this scenario continuity testing is not really any good to you.

    #464598
    electrofix
    Moderator

    Specialist01269 wrote:When you say reaction, can you explain ?. If you have a circuit through the element, probably in the region of 25 to 40 Ohms and 240v at the element connections with the element connected then your element should heat.
    In this scenario continuity testing is not really any good to you.

    you may have 240v at the element connections but unless one of them is 0v Neutral it wont work

    Dave

    #464599
    Specialist01269
    Participant

    Dave mate: If your testing at the element with a Multimeter or 2 pole tester and get 240v then the Neutral is there, otherwise the meter wouldn’t read. I’m not talking about testing to Earth from each leg, but directly across the Live & Neutral at the element.

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