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Hi all!
So my Beko fridge freezer has been running colder & colder, and now I have it set to 1 and it’s freezing stuff in the fridge. Having looked at other posts it would seem the foamed-in fridge sensor could be the issue. I’ve found the sensor available online, but I’m wondering if anyone knows the exact location of the sensor on my model?
Thanks!
OK – can’t seem to edit posts?
I’ll try again with the link to the photo
OK – this apparently is the exploded diagram for my fridge freezer, but where’s the thermistor?
Could it be 604, embedded between the fridge compartment and the outer metal casing?https://siteassets.ransomspares.co.uk/ModelDiagrams/1600-1600/BEKO0721.jpg
OK – So Beko confirmed item 604 on the diagram is the bung for the drainage channel in the fridge compartment, obvious now when you look at it.
They also said that if the thermistor was classed as a non-replaceable part (embedded), they don’t include it on the exploded diagrams!
So I’m back to square one. I have no idea now where the thermistor is located, and short of gradually removing all of the foam on the rear of the fridge compartment I don’t know what else to do.
Another appeal I guess to anyone who has had a similar problem and managed to locate the whereabouts of the thermistor?
Thanks.Hi – I shoved it in the garage to get it out of the way.
I went back to it today to sort getting rid of it, then I thought I would find the b****y sensor for my own sanity, because I never found it before and it was bugging me! Nothing to lose as I was going to skip it. So I dug a line all across the back, definitely no wires going down from the top as in similar models. Then I dug across the top after prizing off the lid. I found the wire going to the light / thermostat control, nothing else.
So out of frustration I removed the cover from inside the freezer to check where the wires were routed. OK – so I’ve enclosed a link to a photo:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49845049756_6c24b45e08_b.jpg
You can clearly see here the defrost thermostat clipped to the top of the evaporator coil, but there is what looks like a thermistor also attached to the coil. Could this be it? Could it be that this thermistor is the only one in the appliance for temperature control, and there is no thermistor for the fridge compartment???
So I just removed that thermistor. It measured 11KΩ at room temperature. I dunked it into a cup of cold water and it rose to 20KΩ, so I guess it’s a NTC thermistor. However I let it get back to room temperature and it won’t go lower than 13KΩ now unless I warm it in my hands.
Do these resistance readings sound about right for this thermistor?
Thanks.
the wiring diagram lists 2 sensors
defrost sensor
eveporator sensorparts list does not list any sensor but Beko tech can do this sometimes if you have not got the serial no
Dave
Thanks Dave
Are you saying there are frost-free fridge freezers from Beko that have just the one evaporator thermistor which is used to regulate the temperature of the freezer and the fridge compartment?
The serial number for this appliance is 1211724611
Thanks Dave
So I guess the red module clipped to the coil is the thermal fuse for the heaters and the white sensor is the defrost thermistor. In which case I give up. I dug a line all across the back between the fridge and freezer compartment to see if there were any wires going up from the terminal block in the freezer compartment. Nothing.
I really have no idea whatsoever where Beko have hidden the other thermistor.
Just confirmed with my meter that thermistor attached to the top of the coil is the defrost one, white outer insulated cable attached to the 5 terminal connector on the PCB with a part number label attached. The FF thermistor cable has blue outer insulation & no label.
Machineage,
I’ve just fixed my Beko CDA565 which is 9 years old but had the same symptoms (too cold) and wiring issue as yours; the fridge sensor wasn’t where I expected it at the back and the wiring to it (in a blue outer cover) disappeared up and left rather than down and right.
Before this, I’d checked out the pot above the fridge temperature dial against the resistance stamped it, and swapped the PCB at the back of the unit for a used replacement from ebay (£10). Easy to do so worth a try, especially since both sensors were showing decreasing resistance with increasing temperature. I then had a look behind the inner freezer back panel and there was no significant icing up, so I guessed that sensor was OK. That meant that the fridge sensor resistance must have drifted.
The fridge on my unit has a cooling panel behind part of the inner back which ices and defrosts/drains as the unit goes on and off. I am assuming yours is the same.
I bought item 4394720285 from UK Whitegoods, and this is where my approach differed from yours. If this new sensor is designed to go on the back of a Beko (which is much colder than the side or top) it MUST give the same resistance at a lower temperature than the installed one. I tested this out by putting an extension wire on the new sensor, draping it over the top and into the fridge between fridge and seal. As expected if wedged against the side of the fridge it had no effect but if wedged against the back (the iced-up part) it worked and the unit switched on and off.
After this test, I just cut a hole in the insulation from the back, roughly halfway down on where the iced-up area is on the inside. I drilled an 8mm hole in the bottom of the plastic PCB container (angled towards the hole I’d made) then pushed a rod through the foam and into the hole. I cut the old sensor wires off the connector and, having pulled the new sensor wire through the hole, soldered those onto the connector wire tails I’d left. The new sensor had a flat on it. I didn’t bother making a holder. I just put a bit of spring wire across of the sensor and stuck into the foam to hold it in place. I then used some cut foam to fill the hole until I knew it worked, and when it did I filled the hole with I expanding foam. Take care though – on mine I came across a horizontal metal box section rail (maybe 7mm square) across the back under the foam which I guess has a cooling pipe in it. I made sure the sensor wasn’t next to this. There was plastic at the bottom of the hole I dug; I guess the metal cooling plate was under the plastic.
Worked for me, although on a different model to yours. Also, I’m no expert so no liability accepted blah blah.
Hope this helps.
Martyn
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