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Hi I am trying to repair this mixer which someone else had a go at and disconnected all the motor wires. The problem was not electrical but mechanical with the gear change which I have now sorted. I have tried connecting as a I think it should operate for a normal motor but it is not running. Have tested all motor wiring and everything seems good. I have contacted adexa and the diagram they sent me does not match the machine and they now say that’s all they have.
The wiring to the motor consists of 6 wires, which test as 3 pairs, pair 1 green and blue (0.3ohms), pair 2 green and blue (0.3ohms but with end switch) and pair 3 red and brown (5.6ohms). It has two capacitors start and run and both these test ok.
The wiring to the on, stop and safety switches is all ok and switches the contactor on with the motor wires disconnected.
My issue is with how the 3 pairs to the motor are connected together and to the contactor.
Any help would be appreciated, if anyone has a picture of the inside of the connection box that would be good.
Thanks in advance.well can make a few guesses but that all they will be
you have a start and run cap
the start cap will be in series with the pair with the end switch. i assume by end switch you mean centrifugal switch on the motor rotor
the main wiring red brown pair ewill be connected directly to the mains
after that it gets a bit i dont know
have you got the wiring diag they sent you
might give me a clue
Dave
The wiring diagrams adexa sent me are attached, the one with the transformer in is most like what is there but it doesn’t have a transformer.
Yes the end switch is the centrifugal switch.both are the same diagram. all thats added to the first on its the control circuit. control circuit closes a contactor to start motor
Dave
Can’t remember will check tomorrow and get back, one says run and the other start on it so I assume that’s what they are.
can sort of see whats going on its the second winding thats making me think. cant see how that connects with the circuit
usually there are 2 windings , start and run
the run winding is across the mains but the start winding is in series with the cap just to start itDave
Hi again, yes that is my predicament. The capacitors are as shown. On my fluke multimeter they measure 11.7 run and 172 start microfarads. Thanks for your thoughts so far.
ok where does the centrifugal switch fit in this
is one of the coil wires go directly to it and come out as one of the wiring pairs ?Dave
Yes it does it is one of the low resistance coil pairs (green and blue) that measured 0.3ohms and if I operate the centrifugal switch manually it disconnects the loop.
ok well that loop goes in series with the start cap
its poss the other coil is in series with the run cap
and the last coil is fed direct
its just an educated guess and you would have to measure current on switch on
Dave
Ok will give it a try, but I am away for a couple days so will get back early next week.
For clarity the “last coil fed direct” will be the 5.6ohm brown and red wires. These have spade terminals fitted which looks like they have come off the contactor whereas the two green and blue pairs are bare ends.
The mixer is rated at 750w so I would expect around 3A run current is that correct.correct
the only coil that can go direct is the higher resitance. with resitance alone it would draw 42A but its a coil in a steel former so that should work to reduce current
all this is a lot of guess work with a bit of experience thrown in so hope am right but there is no guarentee in these situations
just a pity its made by a company thats hell to get info off
Dave
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