ADP 8322 – Not filling & fault codes change!!

[mtferengi]

Hi Guys,

Had great help off you all before (thanks again Penguin when my circ pump was faultly etc etc – changed that about a month or so ago and worked a treat and now i’ve yet another problem and back again!!).

Dishwasher stopped working and started beeping last night. Looked at lights-fault code 4. Looked on forum for advice and started to investigate. Found water in bottom tray (found and rectified small leak from pump hose clip (see above)). Cleaned out WI (although didn’t look bad) and still no luck. In between re-setting checking it then changed to Fault code 6 then later 7 then back to 4!!?? Sometimes it seems to work (fill) others it just bleeps like a lunatic (while trying to drain when already obviously empty!)

Last night in between scratching my head it “seemed” to start working ok. I put it on a 30 min cycle and it did the initial drain / fill / wash etc etc then just near what i assume was end of cycle it stopped and beeped (code 6). Had another fiddle and again got it “working”. Put it on 65 deg wash and the same sort of thing drained / filled / washed various times and then stopped near end of cycle.

I have checked various things –

1) Cleaned WI a number of times and removed it, given it a shake and it “clicks” (although when i did this a while back i thought the “click” was more “obvious” (louder?)) Suck and blow into it and the diaphragm moves / clicks.

2) Checked the connections (& continuity of cables) between fill chamber pcb and main board. Checked resistance on fill chamber board (across reed valve ref Maruaders recent posts). May be me but this varies depending (sometimes i switch on and machine does nothing much (with chamber empty), another time chamber filled up but it won’t fill the machine). So really not sure there what readings i should get and when?

3) Checked resistance across water inlet valve (3.6 kOhms) can i assume that is fine from other posts on here?

4) Even tried to turn machine on and either to “hold sucked in” or “hold blown out” the WI to try and “trick” the machine into filling up and working. Makes no difference (although maybe wouldn’t – a bright idea of mine!?)

As you can tell i’m getting pretty desperate for ideas! Haha! It doesn’t help that the fault code has changed a few times (feel like i’m chasing my tail a bit!)

It seems that the more common (often and current) fault code is 4 and my gut feeling is that it is the WI is up the spout. Although the diaphragm is deflecting i guess that doesn’t mean the gubbins inside are working as they should. Is there a way to test / confirm that it is this? (Have tried resistance checks across the 3 connectors on WI (various combinations) and tried sucking / blowing the diaprahm but it doesn’t tell me alot really as don’t know what readings should be!? If you gently shake it should it click obviously (spring?) or only when you suck/blow?

I am really confused and seem to be getting to know my dishwasher better than i’d ever hoped! I would appreciate a dose of your expert help pse!?

Bit miffed after spending out on the pump recently and now wandering if better to cut my losses and get new machine although if the WI (fairly cheap it would obviously be worth doing)!!?

Please help! Many thanks in advance!

Mark

[Penguin45]

Re: ADP 8322 – Not filling & fault codes change!!

Better have a read of THIS.

Penguin45.

[mtferengi]

Re: ADP 8322 – Not filling & fault codes change!!

Hi Penguin,

Thanks for your reply! Bit confused with this still though…..could do with further advice (maybe more detail about the operation of the reed switch?)

I had read all about Marauders fun on his post and the subsequent bits/advice. When i had the machine in bits i checked (as per his/your advice) the pcb at the bottom of the flow meter for resistance. (Not sure if correct way but i left it connected and put the probes directly “across” the circuit board. I got 0 ohms (i.e. continuity)at first when it initially started up and then i think at the point that it started to fill/run it changed to a much bigger reading (i think from memory it was about 1.5 kOhms. I presume if it is working 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} it should read 0 ohms and then go to “open circuit”? (i.e. does the reed switch completely “make” and “break” the circuit. (In which case mine is “making” and “nearly but not quite breaking”)? . Therefore the reed switch is working but not correctly?

The confusing issue is that it doesn’t always show the same fault code- has sometimes been 6, a couple of times 7 but mainly 4!?

Am i right in assuming it could then be (1) the pcb (above) or (2) the WI diaphragm sticking in either the “full” or “empty” position and therefore telling the machine that it has already drained / filled etc….. (WI diaphragm seems to be quite a common fault so mine may have “gone” inside even though the diaphragm is “moving”?)

Even weirder – at the minute the machine has been fiddled with & reset (numerous times) and is temporarily working correctly (touch wood!) although i assume either:

(a) my numerous connecting / disconnecting of things has sorted out a loose / dirty connection unwittingly………

or

(b) it’s only working for the mo and is about to pack in again (intermittant fault) – that being the case does it sound like the WI or the Fill Chamber PCB that could be the more likely judging by the bit above & the symptoms (changing fault codes etc)?

As always your help is appreciated!

Mark

[Penguin45]

Re: ADP 8322 – Not filling & fault codes change!!

4, 6 + 7 all relate to water level issues. If the WI in the sump is clear, it may be worth checking the function of the microswitch on the outside of the WI. It is a light action switch – I have had a few where the spring mechanism has failed.

The flow meter works by passing a magnet mounted in the water wheel in front of a reed switch on the little pcb. The magnet closes the reed switch and the computer counts 1. It then works out the flow rate of the water into the machine by counting the make and break of the reesd switch against time.

HTH,
Penguin45.

[mtferengi]

Re: ADP 8322 – Not filling & fault codes change!!

Thanks Penguin!

That makes more sense now about how the reed switch works!

As for the WI i think it sounds like that then that has the fault (if codes 4,6 & 7) relate to it!

It sounds like what you are talking about (the microswitch) is the gubbins inside the WI? If so how can i test it to confirm / find diagram etc?

Thanks again for your help!

For your info it is currently working (still!) but i have a feeling it won’t be long!!!……………………….

Mark

[Penguin45]

Re: ADP 8322 – Not filling & fault codes change!!

That should help.

Penguin45.

[mtferengi]

Re: ADP 8322 – Not filling & fault codes change!!

Thanks Penguin,

Diagram handy pointing out some of the bits that i wasn’t sure what they actually were (ntc etc although not sure what it does! Haha)!?

As for the WI though it doesn’t help me test it (if you can?). For example: Is it possible to put a voltmeter “across” two of the three contacts (in order) on the WI and open / close the (diaphragm) switch and check the resistance (i.e. seeing whether the switch is open/closed when it should be etc?) In essence how and what could i do to test it?

Thanks again – much appreciated!

Mark

[Penguin45]

Re: ADP 8322 – Not filling & fault codes change!!

Remove it – it’s just a twist-fit. There is a microswitch in the body which you can tease out for testing with your test meter. Check that the spring in the switch actually springs.

Penguin45.

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