AEG Lavamat Turbo Protex L75480WD Not Drying

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
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  • #98679
    LostBoy
    Participant

    Hi,

    PNC: 914605605

    After watching hours of YouTube vids, 100’s of pages of forum advice, endless searches I am at my wits’ ends as to why there is no hot air being blown out from the washer dryer. Washes drains fine, dryer comes on and blows good volume of air but its not hot.

    There’s no error code being displayed in engineers mode, I have checked the resistance of the heating elements (65 Ohms), the continuity of the thermostats and the resistance of the NTC temperature probe (8.7k Ohms at 15 degrees Centigrade). Checked the wiring from the various probes elements back to the connections on the PCB, no breaks etc. Also checked the heating elements for grounding, seem fine (no continuity beep from each connection to chassis).

    Hopefully there’s something obvious I have missed?

    #473349
    electrofix
    Moderator

    what is the last alarm showing in egineering mode ?

    also when checking heaters to earth you will never get a beep from your meter other wise it would go bang or blow your trip

    you looking for resistance of millions of ohms or megohms

    Dave

    #473350
    LostBoy
    Participant

    Hi Dave, thanks for your help.

    The last code I had before I cleared it was the door open one as I was messing around with the washer. Don’t recall seeing any others.
    I have done a couple of washes and attempted a few drying cycles since then but again no error.

    However, in the mean time I have got it to heat up once, no idea how, thought it might be to do with draining the sump waste water pipe due to cleaning the filter but it didn’t heat up again after I re-attempted the procedure.

    Checked the elements again, you’re correct they came back with a reading of 30 M Ohms.

    Anything else I can check?

    Cheers

    #473351
    electrofix
    Moderator

    there are 2 ntc detectors
    one in the element assembly the other one in the drum

    both need to read 5000 ohms at 25 degrees C

    Dave

    #473352
    LostBoy
    Participant

    Is the one in the drum for the main wash hot water (between the heater elements at the bottom of the drum)? If so its giving a similar reading to the one in the dryer assembly. The machine is in the lean too so a bit chilly, the amount of time I’m spending in there the missus probably thinks I’m having some sort of texting affair!

    #473353
    electrofix
    Moderator

    it not the one in the heater

    see yellow arrow

    Dave

    #473354
    LostBoy
    Participant

    Found it, excitedly detached to test in warmer climes (the kitchen) at room temp and dipped in some hot water, unfortunately, operating as expected. 🙁

    #473355
    electrofix
    Moderator

    have you checked its wiring back to the board ?

    Dave

    #473356
    Gokhk
    Participant

    Good luck lost boy i gave up with my AEG although least yours is easier symptoms i.e no hot air mine was opposite. A few things Dave and others suggested to me ,check wiring as maybe its a intermittent connection issue (contact cleaner perhaps ?)- wiring to fan , recirculation pump ?. Reading the thread sadly maybe it could be a even be pcb error ? Check it for any obvious signs. If you can find a retired AEG engineer thats your best bet at this stage , keep us posted as id like to know what it was if you can find out.

    #473357
    LostBoy
    Participant

    electrofix wrote:have you checked its wiring back to the board ?

    Dave

    Ah, nope, did with the duct NTC as it was quite easy to trace back. Too many thin blue wires with this one. Any idea which contacts on the PCB? (Tried to upload pic but it exceeds quota).

    #473358
    LostBoy
    Participant

    Gokhk wrote:Good luck lost boy i gave up with my AEG although least yours is easier symptoms i.e no hot air mine was opposite. A few things Dave and others suggested to me ,check wiring as maybe its a intermittent connection issue (contact cleaner perhaps ?)- wiring to fan , recirculation pump ?. Reading the thread sadly maybe it could be a even be pcb error ? Check it for any obvious signs. If you can find a retired AEG engineer thats your best bet at this stage , keep us posted as id like to know what it was if you can find out.

    Thanks for the encouragement Gokhk! Good thing is it’s still usable as a washer (even in its current state; lid off, PCB hanging out!). On the infrequent occasion we do need something drying (normally school uniform) the central heating has to come on so a bit of pain. Would be a shame to bin it just for the dryer as the rest of its in great nick. Its currently running a 60 C cycle with some Dettol washing machine cleaner I just bought, not thinking it would fix it but after deep cleaning the seals etc. thought why not.

    It does seem intermittent, so maybe a loose wire connection, will examine again but the wires harness did look very sound. I was speculating a PCB error too (would this cause intermittent failure?) but not sure how to determine if it is faulty though.

    Not giving up just yet, hopefully with the help of Dave and others will get to the bottom of this.

    #473359
    Gokhk
    Participant

    Another thing to try is if you have a bench power supply and know the current the heater elements / fan takes why not wire it up directly and energise , it sounds to me the machine is telling it to turn on but it’s not receiving the signal , bad relay of some sort ?

    pcb you could check for shorted caps or other chips etc but to me this sounds more and more simple , if a direct feed can be setup that would be my best bet with a simple switch to activate with machine dry cycle , see what Dave says.

    #473360
    electrofix
    Moderator

    Gokhk wrote:Another thing to try is if you have a bench power supply and know the current the heater elements / fan takes why not wire it up directly and energise , it sounds to me the machine is telling it to turn on but it’s not receiving the signal , bad relay of some sort ?

    pcb you could check for shorted caps or other chips etc but to me this sounds more and more simple , if a direct feed can be setup that would be my best bet with a simple switch to activate with machine dry cycle , see what Dave says.

    never a good idea anyway plus the drier fan motor is 3 phase so needs a board to run, so its impossible to direct feed

    Dave

    #473361
    electrofix
    Moderator

    rear thermistor connected to pins 1 and 2 on the dryer board on plug J6

    go back into diagnostic and just see if anymore fault codes have shown up

    also the position one click before where you read the error code is the dryer test position, what happens ?

    Dave

    #473362
    LostBoy
    Participant

    Cheers Dave; have a reading of 2.8 k Ohms a 15 degrees C at pins 1 and 2 on J6. Still nothing on the error code front (E00).

    Surprisingly dryer test position results in dryer coming on (with heat!) and I guess that’s the temp that starts counting up. Not sure if this was a fluke (intermittent), will wait for it to cool down and try again.

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