AEG T58870 tumble dryer will not start

[oziris]

Hi all,

I would appreciate your advice. Recently my AEG T58870 tumble dryer stopped working. It stopped in the middle of the drying cycle and the LCD screen just “died” (no digits on it at all). Since then, it won’t start. I’ve tried using another socket which I know is working properly but no joy.

I called the AEG service and a repairman has arrived. He tried another socket as well, and then without having done any further tests or even disassembly he said a new “spare part” will be needed which costs about 250 euro. (I was not home at that time so I am just repeating what he said to my wife and I had no opportunity to ask him for details). Now we’re waiting for the spare part more than 5 weeks and they say it’s out of stock in the EU. It’s such a poor service that I don’t want to deal with them anymore.

So my question is what’s wrong with the dryer. If the guy was right, then I assume the spare part for about 200 GBP would correspond to a PCB (part marked as “587” or “587c” on dryer diagram which is the “configured electronics” or the pcb module card). However I don’t like the idea he made his conclusion just by looking at the machine and trying another socket, and just based on this I will have to order a new PCB from the UK??

Now I know there is a couple of things I’d need to check before ordering a programmed PCB or another electronic spare (587/587c), like the thermal fuse or other stuff. Where to start please?

I’ve removed the upper and right panel. So far I’ve found out that the tumble dryer condenser assembly has obviously never been cleaned up, so there is half an inch of dust and hair everywhere. Could it be that the thermal fuse was blown because of that? Thanks

[electrofix]

yes correct it will be a configured item 587
587c is the inverter board and if this fails the display would still work

have you tried to get board repaired. anyone who can repair electronics could probably do it. the board has a 7 leg power supply chip and a safety resistor. both of these are probably gone. there is a high chance replacing these components will fix it and a lot cheaper than a new board.
I have done lots of them

Dave

[oziris]

Hi Dave, I can try asking a company which says they repair pcbs. But even if they’d repair it, what about programming? I assume that during repair, they would reset the pcb or even delete the software, or not?

[electrofix]

wont need programming as you are fixing a power supply

Dave

[oziris]

Hi Dave. At the end of the day you were 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} right. PCB’s power supply was faulty. I managed to find a company that was able to fix it for about 60€. It’s a half-price of new PCB. And they also provide 2-years warranty for the power supply. I was struggling a bit with assembly, though, as I have no manual and I only took a couple of photos during the disassembly. It took me 4 hours to put the dryer back to operational status but hey! it was worth it. Thank you, much appriecated! Please feel free to close this thread if necessary.

[oziris]

Hi all, it’s me. Unfortunately, the same thing happen again. The dryer performed two cycles OK, then when I was trying to switch it on next day, it was simply dead. I have removed PCB again and got back to the repair company. They said they have never seen anything like that, but they fixed it for free once more. Now I am quite hesitant to start the dryer. I now it works, as the display reads data, but what if the same thing would happen again. What if there is another faulty component which keeps killing the PCB.. but if that’s true, what’s that? Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this.

[electrofix]

well its a good job you did not buy a new board then

I would check the socket for bad connections. power surges tend to pop chips

not sure on this model but a lot of units these days tend to power the chips 24/7 so the unit is in stand by unless its in use. My advise in all cases is turn it off at the socket after use every time

Dave

[oziris]

Yes I guess so. Thanks for your advice again. I will remove the cable from the socket after every drying cycle, hopefully this will be enough to protect the PCB…

[oziris]

Hi guys, here I am after almost 4 months and I am writing this as perhaps it might be helpful for other people.

I made 2 more attempts to repair the dryer. The PCB was repaired, dryer worked twice, then the PCB failed again, so it’s been re-repaired, the dryer worked only once and PCB failed again. Finally I’ve discovered the issue – it was the mains filter. I’ve ordered one from the UK for about GBP 24.00, then I had the PCB repaired again and now it’s working. Thanks so much for your help.

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