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Hello Members,
Newbie here. I did do a quick search but couldn’t find a specific answer to my problem. I have a Beko fridge freezer, model No. CFD63B, product code 7267546333, about 12 years old.
A few weeks ago I had the fridge door open, and the door open alarm started beeping. I closed the door and the beeping continued. Switched the fridge off, left a few minutes, turned it on, still beeping. I noticed that the fan in the fridge wasn’t turning, so suspected the motor as it is linked to the door open switch (if the fan doesn’t spin the fridge thinks the door is open).
Ordered a new motor giving all the appliance details, they sent the wrong one, it was too big for the housing. But as the connector was the same I thought I would plug it in to see if the beeping stopped….it didn’t.
So now I’m wondering if it could be the control board at the back of the fridge. The appliance still works ok, but obviously the cold air isn’t being circulated around the fridge compartment. Some extra information. the appliance has a feature where you can put a bottle of liquid in the freezer to fast chill it and set an alarm by fiddling with the temp. control. If I set the alarm the beep stops, but after 30 mins (preset alarm time) the beeping starts again and continues as before.
Does anyone have any ideas ? Thanks.Hi Dave, thanks for the reply. The door switch turns off the light when pressed, so that side of it seems ok. Is there some other way of checking it’s operation ?
well you can assume the switch works as long as the light turns off
assume when you operate the sw by hand the light goes out but the fan does not start plus it still beeps
Dave
Correct. As the fan wasn’t spinning (you can see it slowing down when the door is opened) that’s what made me suspect the fan motor. But assuming the new motor was working and didn’t stop the beeping, I’m looking elsewhere. The door seal seems undamaged and there is a vacuum when the door is opened. The compressor switches on and off, and there is no excessive freezing either in the fridge or freezer. There is some ice on the back wall of the fridge, but only in the form of frozen droplets, maybe because the top half is slightly warmer than usual ?
ok it could well be the door sw thats the problem
it has double contacts so its poss the lamp one is ok but the other has failed
Dave
So I pulled the switch. There are 2 pins, one with 2 grey wires attached and the other with a single blue one. On examination there’s no damage (rust, scorching, etc), and the contacts open fully when the switch is operated. Sorry to be a total spanner, but how do I test with a multimeter, and what readings am I looking for ?
There is a switch advertised on eBay,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133566162611?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338766898&toolid=20006&customid=0c9d3a50c3f1b64013ee27593956078e&_trkparms=ispr{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}3D1&amdata=enc{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}3A1W2HNH1k2TBKgy5pSkf2QUQ52
which is identical to mine, right down to the markings. TBH, I don’t have a lot of faith in these parts suppliers. The parts they recommend always seem to differ from the ones installed in my appliance, that’s why I prefer to pull the part and see what it looks like. The fan motor is a case in point, none of the ones on here look like mine !well if Beko think your switch has 3 connection what else is wrong
seems like the tech is wrong
Dave
I don’t know about that, all I know is what the sites say vs what the part actually looks like. I bought the fridge new and it has never been repaired, so the parts should be stock. So, how do I go about testing the door switch ?
put the meter on a buzz setting so it buzzes when leads are together
then put one lead on each terminal and operate the switch it should buzz in one position and not in the otherDave
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