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My BEKO dishwasher is approximately a year old (2017) and recently flashed up and error code on the control panel ‘E02, HFL’ just after i ignored the extended warrantee paperwork coming through the mail. The symptoms are dishwasher powers up, allows you to select the required programme and when you shut the door the display shows the ‘play/start’ arrow, the light comes on, on the floor showing the machine is busy/programme started and you can hear a click which sounds like its coming from within the door but its not the detergent holder. That’s it, no humming, the drain pump does not start, water does not fill, nothing. After about 3 minutes the error code displays as noted before. I have completed all the high level checks being that there is a water supply, water is coming out of the end of the hose, the filter is not blocked on the fill valve inlet, cleaned the interior filters and checked for obstructions at the drain pump, tipped the machine over and checked that the float switch is not activated, checked the float switch operation with multi-meter, reconnected all the electrical connections under the machine, checked the drain pump motor resistance (230ohms) and coil resistances for all the solenoid switches. Also removed the internal pipework and rear internal tray that houses the connection to the lower spray arm and found no obstructions. Blown air into the fill line after the fill valve and the flow meter rotor can be heard spinning. Then proceeded to contact BEKO’s customer service as I could not find an accurate description of my fault code online and they advised that it was a water filling problem. I decided to purchase a new fill valve and have since fitted this but there is no change to the symptoms. Is there another float valve, pressure sensor or sensor within the machine that may have failed that anyone has had experience of? Could the flow meter give an inaccurate read out when stationary, to the CPU stopping the machine from opening the fill valve? Could the cable harness that bends under the door have broken down? Any help would be appreciated.
Hi Dave, the water is on and i have unscrewed the hose from the dishwasher end and run the water through it into a bucket to make sure it is coming through. The inlet valve on the machine is not opening and i cannot find out why? Is there a chance that the new part sent from the supplier is defective as well? I would think this to be rare? Do you know what the resistance value is for the inlet valve coils? Mine are 230V AC and are reading about 1.36KOhms which is really high but all the coils on the machine are reading this value with the cables disconnected and all of them can surely not be defective?
value for the coil is about right so its not that.
check the wires from the valve back to the timer and if they are ok look for damage on the timer board itself
Dave
Hi Dave, so to conclude after stripping the door down and removing the PCB i found a clear burn mark on the inside of the PCB case where two sets of loom connectors are mounted and a broken board mounted piece of component to which the PCB track corresponds. Pieces of this component was lying inside the PCB case. I was curious to know if the components at the other ends of the loom connections caused the board failure or visa versa. Connected to the loom ends were the rinse aid actuator, salt dose actuator and pump regeneration actuators. The coils for all of these measured ok so it looks like board component failed for another reason and caused the issue. I presume the PCB is toast and unrepairable? I have found one on ebay removed from a DIN29x31 (same model) but a later release date so the sub model number for the PCB is different. I hope it works as there is nothing else out there that i can find that matches and £30 is cheaper than a new machine! Thanks again for the advise. We are about to go on holiday so depending on when the part arrives i will post back to what happened, fingers crossed.
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