Home › Forums › Public Support Forums › Help And Support › Tumble Dryer Help Forum › Beko DP 8045 CW – Lack of heat
- This topic has 11 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 4 months ago by
byteseven.
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November 22, 2018 at 11:05 am #95039
byteseven
ParticipantDear all,
I’m up against it to get our tumble dryer fixed. I’m hoping to get the fault diagnosed today (22nd November) and a part ordered for the weekend.
The tumble dryer is a condensing heat pump type.
History
Somewhat poorly maintained. Door filter cleaned regularly and reservoir emptied regularly. Heat exchange filter cleaned infrequently. Recently bought two condenser filters, so one can be fitted whilst the other is used. Not long (< 1 week) after the new filter is fitted the tumble dryer looses ability to heat. No faults showing on display. Tumble dryer just keeps spinning, essentially a never ending cycle.Found the diagnostic mode by selecting “Jeans” (12 O’Clock position) and turning on mains whilst holding down the “buzzer cancel” button. After 10 secs you enter the diagnostic mode.
Humidity sensor okay, passes diagnostic test.
Reservoir pump okay, pumps water.
Drum turns
Door sensor worksCompressor doesn’t seem to start in diagnostic mode. The temperature reported in this mode is ~11C, which is probably right for our conservatory at the moment.
I have removed the side panels and gained access to the wiring etc. The thermal cut out (B90-150A-241C) appears to be okay. I’ve checked both the capacitors and neither seems to be shorted out.
The temperature sensor reads 18.2 K Ohms, which is probably right for 11C?
The compressor coils measure 6.8 Ohms and 5.7 Ohms, which matches up with a datasheet I found, EKS120PAA.
I don’t know if there are any other thermal cut-outs or resettable fuses in this model, I cant see any obvious ones.
I’m at a point where it is either the compressor or control PCB. A dead compressor means a new tumble dryer because I’m not messing around with greenhouse gases. A PCB is hopefully and easy swap.
I’d like to test that the control PCB is starting the compressor but can’t figure out what voltages to measure.
Any help or insight is appreciated.
November 22, 2018 at 12:49 pm #459179kwatt
KeymasterOn the face of it, it sounds like the compressor is toast.
K.
November 22, 2018 at 1:35 pm #459180byteseven
ParticipantHi,
So did I until just now! Wired up the compressor directly to the mains and it fires up with a lovely bubbly sound. I only ran it for <5 s, but it proves that the problem is elsewhere.
I’ve buzzed out the wired connections to the PCB, and they seem okay.
The soldering on the relay that switches the neutral to the compressor doesn’t look too happy. I’ll try reflowing the joints and see how it goes. Fingers crossed.
November 22, 2018 at 1:38 pm #459181kwatt
KeymasterNo, it proves the compressor runs with a full jolt, that’s all that might prove. Not that it’s actually okay.
Aside which you do realise that is extremely dangerous and you should not, ever, do that.
K.
November 22, 2018 at 2:11 pm #459182byteseven
ParticipantHi,
Arg! I wish they provided documentation for these things.
Just refitted the PCB after reflowing the solder joints. Re-ran the diagnostic mode, same fault, compressor doesn’t turn on.
For some reason I closed the door with the dryer still in “Conp” mode, and the compressor fires up in the diagnostic mode. The temperature increases a bit during the run about 2 C in 60 seconds, then the display flashes “OhEy”/”0hEy”. Pressing “buzzer cancel” gives a final screen which says “Er01” in the main part of the display and cycles through E1, E2, E3, in the top left part of the display.
Seems I have been on a wild goose chase and I’m none the wiser now.
I suspect there is another sensor or similar that I don’t know about which is not behaving.
Any suggestions?
November 22, 2018 at 2:40 pm #459183kwatt
KeymasterThat’s like asking the car manufacturers to publish all their service information and I am sure you know the chances of that happening are less than zero.
Your choices are, pay them to do it all for you or, work it out for yourself and take on all the risks of that in virtually all cases.
OhEy means that the thermistor value has reached 55˚C and the compressor is stopped, somehow you’ve managed to get it onto a test cycle by the sounds of it. Above that, the temp value is shown.
On/Off (Power cycle it) to get it out of test mode.
K.
November 22, 2018 at 2:55 pm #459184byteseven
ParticipantHi,
I can hope for documentation I suppose.
The “Conp” test just needed the door to be closed. If its left to run, it eventually stops after a seemingly random amount of time and then you are able to cycle through the final test (running the drum anti-clockwise).
Thanks for the information about “OhEy”. I’m a bit suspicious of the result that it has reached 55C. The reading whilst the compressor was running was only 1-2 C above the ambient temperature.
I checked that the feedback seen in the “conp” mode was the thermistor I checked earlier. I held the sensor in my hand for a few minutes (then let go) and turn the tumble drier back on. The temperature reading in “conp” mode was at about 16C.
I had a quick look and cannot (easily) see another thermistor. Where is it likely to be located? Inside the heat exchanger?
November 22, 2018 at 3:07 pm #459185byteseven
ParticipantHi,
Found another thermistor, at the front below the door. It measured ~20K Ohm. Seems okay.
Running out of options now….
November 22, 2018 at 3:09 pm #459186kwatt
KeymasterIn test mode, for the relevant part being tested, it shows you the thermistor reading in the small box above where that code is.
Blowouts attached, good luck as I hate those ones.
K.
November 22, 2018 at 4:04 pm #459187byteseven
ParticipantHi,
For those who find this website googling the model number, those attachments are only available if you register for the forum.
I don’t mind an exploded diagram, but those in particular are difficult to use. The resolution is too poor to see any detail. I assume you don’t have any higher resolution copies?
The temperature reported when the compressor is running is much less than 55C, at about 11C ambient temperature.
November 22, 2018 at 4:24 pm #459188kwatt
KeymasterNope, that all you get, they’re only intended to identify part positions, then cross-reference to get part numbers.
11˚C though is at the very low end that a heat pump dryer will work, they do not like low (10˚C or less) or high (over about 30-33˚C) temperatures and very often will not work beyond those.
K.
November 22, 2018 at 6:49 pm #459189byteseven
ParticipantHi,
The diagrams are better than nothing, but I can’t see any more sensors. I believe there are just the two (door and heat pump). I suspect the “Conp” mode just runs the compressor until it sees a temperature rise and then stops, ie it doesn’t go all the way to 55C.
I had a look at the manual for the minimum ambient temperature, and they spec it at 5C. This problem did surface before the temperature dropped yesterday and our conservatory has been hovering around 14-18C over the last few weeks.
I’ve been running a test load of a towel for 30mins or so now. After that much time the temperature sensors report as follows, 46C (heat pump) and 16C (door sensor).
I’m now thinking that maybe something has happened to the airflow, ie the hot air is not being moved from where it is made to where it is needed.
I’m tempted to buy a new dryer anyway, as our use case (un-heated conservatory) probably means it’s not really suited.
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