Beko DSC85W only gets clothes luke warm

[electrofix]

are you talking about this one ?

https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/2971900100-tumble-dryer-ntc-thermistor

Dave

[CraigARB]

electrofix wrote:are you talking about this one ?

https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/2971…ntc-thermistor

Dave

Voila! Yes thanks, i couldnt find it here?
i’m gonna try that 1st as £11 beats yet another 40£ complete rear heating element? (Element signifies to me that its good due to continuity & resistence reading)
*UPDATE* not recommended but if i shorted the plastic coupler to test the element then wouldnt this confirm where the problem lies?
*UPDATE II* the 700w? (cant decipher which one is 700 and which is 1600?) rear thermo has gone on element, shorted front thermistor TNA so what a joke it is to have to spend 40£ just because a component the size of a 10p coin (and not costing much more for anew?) has failed?
anyone ever replaced an actual thermo component on a heating element?

[-SRS-45-]

electrofix wrote:Re: Beko DSC85W only gets clothes luke warm

if the ntc at the back is only 500 ohm that’s well out of spec

as above should be
19500 ohms at 25 degrees C

Dave

Hi all, same dryer similar prob, my ntc with the reset switch is reading 0 like the guy above, but he didn’t replace that one which I would of though would need it, is it normal for this one to read 0? I can’t reset it the red button its permanently down, is that the normal position for the button?

The other rear NTC is reading 28 kohms at around 19 oC, which I guess is about right, about to check the front one.

Thanks

[electrofix]

bit confused here
the reset switch if that’s what your measuring should read zero ohms and in the operating condition the button is down and pressing it makes no difference

rear Ntc as you say is about right

front ntc is different should be 12000 ohm at 25 degrees

Dave

[-SRS-45-]

yep, you got it. as in there are 2 ntc’s on the back heater 1 has a red reset switch 1 doesn’t. The one with the reset switch I was expecting to also give a reading (disconnected) similar to the other but if you say it will read 0 then that’s right. I just tested the front which reads 13.5 k ohms. so:

Rear NTC 28 k ohms
Rear NTC with red reset switch = 0 k ohms
Front NTC = 13.5 k ohms.

If I understand correctly I think this would then suggest these are all working fine and not the problem.

The original problem was condensation when I took the back off, it was fine plugged in but when the on button was pressed it would trip out the house RCD. I dried it out but now have this problem of infinitely running without heating.

Ta

[electrofix]

some of the early ones had a problem with the NTC on the heater shorting to earth and tripping rcd’s

what colour is the body of the rear NTC ? older one is grey, newer one is white

if this is your problem then you may have damaged the board. Had one with similar problem and traced it to a blown resistor on the board

also if you find this you will need to replace heater unit

Dave

[-SRS-45-]

It’s a white one so likely newer then. though I can’t remember when we bought it. My wife says it is slightly heating but not drying anything just keeps running. Ideal thanks, maybe I’ll replace the heater then have a look at the board if nothing happens. Cheers

[electrofix]

no leave heater for now from the readings so far your just wasting money but you could disconnect it and check for element continuity on both elements then if they are open circuit you may have found your fault

is the condenser clear, you should see daylight all the way through except for the dimples that keep the channels open ?

have you tried it on a timed programme instead of an auto one ?

Dave

[-SRS-45-]

Cheers, checked element continuity, seems okay, the machine is pretty clean but there was some fluff in there across the elements, condenser clear, though did stick arm into machine around corner to scrap out also.

Not tried timed run just standard, have just put back together and started a run, its getting hot at the back which is a good sign. Will try timed next if no good.

[-SRS-45-]

Cheers Dave, seems to be going okay. Not managed to try a full load but small load has dried.

[GingaPete]

electrofix wrote:some of the early ones had a problem with the NTC on the heater shorting to earth and tripping rcd’s

what colour is the body of the rear NTC ? older one is grey, newer one is white

if this is your problem then you may have damaged the board. Had one with similar problem and traced it to a blown resistor on the board

also if you find this you will need to replace heater unit

Dave

Hi guys, sorry to jump in here but i’ve been searching for info regarding my DSC85w having similar problems I used a video that showed how to perform engineer test to see if the heater was still working and it did BUT when using normally the heating did not come on.

I checked and found espares video to get the NTC changed (grey to new white one) so replaced NTC

and this worked fine for a couple of weeks then there was a small pop by and when i checked the rcd board there was scorch marks on some resistors so i replaced that but then when plugged in the rcd flipped! So checking more videos put in new interference filter, heater and new NTC (just incase) off espares (hope to get a Christmas card or invite to the office night out if this carries on) all set up and seems fine but still no heat?

My uncle (electrical engineer retired) is popping over and going to run some tests on it but asked if I could find a wiring schematic for it but I cant find one.

So my two questions are 1) anyone know where I can download a diagram and 2) i

s there anything else that I may have missed as this dryer is turning out like Triggers broom 😉

Any help appreciated

Pete

[GingaPete]

Just realised that during a new engineer test the “clean filter” stays blinking all the time during each stage. Test stages 1) Drum turns, drying light on then with buzzer cancel flashing. 2) Drum stops Iron Dry light blinks then with buzzer cancel flashing 3) Drum turns, Cupboard dry

then with buzzer cancle flshing 4) Drums stays turning End/Anti creasing then with buzzer cancel light 5) Drums stays turning, drying flashes (with clean filter as all stages) but it does not flash buzzer cancel light on this stage and then stays on this and will not go to next test. Not sure this helps but i’ve run out of ideas for now and this washing it piling up 🙁

[electrofix]

its the rcd trips that worry me

you don’t seem to be fault finding why but changing components to try to fix. you may be lucky but it may cost a lot and you run the risk of damaging other components

you say you replaced red board. What is the red board ?

you also say you replaced ntc but the gen ntc is only available with the heater assembly

dave

[GingaPete]

Hi Dave sorry for late response,

RCD

trips stopped when i replaced the filter and heater.

Parts replaced
Front door NTC twice, first was a grey one which i wasn’t sure they sent the correct one as but after emailing the company (ransom spares online) they said this was correct. But replaced with white one from espares with when i got the pcb board. https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1603711

PC board as old one had scorch marks in two places.

https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1662021

Interference filter (as after the above it started to trip mains).

https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1744830

Heater as black marks on back and NTC.

https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1773470

Yeah in know i should’ve been more hands on fault finding but ill be very honest when i checked out known issues for the problems they all seemed to point to easy switch out replacement parts and as they were cheaper than a replacement and i was under pressure (mounting washing and a not happy wife lol) to do quick turnaround i jumped in!! I now realise jumping in isn’t going to the quick answer!! I may have been better to buy a new one but i just hate throwing stuff if i can get them going again and i do OK on most bits like recently replacing heater and fans in two ovens that are out of warranty.

Sorry Dave I’m not sure what red board is referring too the only board I replaced was the scorched pcb board, after this replacement the mains flipped.

At this point i was like sod this ill get a new dryer!! Then on more research it seemed that the cause could be the interference filter so i got a new one, but still had issues with tripping mains. So after yet another google (I’m sure it works for others but don’t think it will catch on) there was reference to a knock on effect of front NTC going and not being able to get a click on the reset switch on back of heater and this being an issue with faulty heater.

So i checked the back of the heater (which had heated up using engineer test prior to front NTC replacement) as it wasn’t heating and there was black marks on back of heater and the ntc connections. So I jumped to the conclusion that the heater was at fault hence new swap out one fitted.

After this was fitted along with the new front door NTC (white one as didn’t then have confidence in new grey one) all seemed fine, no tripping and all lights up correctly and settings worked but after half an hour still no heat.

I ran the engineer test again and it didn’t warm up at all but noticed that at test stage 5 it didn’t move to next test level and was still flashing drying? Engineer test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHuOLIM_qDE

At this point it was getting wheeled out in to the front garden and given a kicking but I decided Google might throw me a life line and this is how I found this post and you guys.

Pete

[Specialist01269]

You said in post #26 that there were scorch marks on the RCD board and then when you replaced it, the RCD flipped.

[Author]

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