Beko DSFN1530 Blown controller board

[carlos_uk]

Hi everyone and happy new year!

I had a great start to the new year yesterday when my dishwasher packed up, I tried to turn it on last night and found there was no power, I checked fuses etc and then when unscrewing the front panel I could smell an electrical burning smell and upon closer inspection I found the control board was the culprit and discovered that the resistor is cracked and looks burnt and the microchip (LNK364PN) which I believe has something to do with power has a massive crack all the way through it.

The machine is quite old now as I’ve had it over 12 years but up to now has been pretty solid so I’d rather repair it if it’s feasible but understand that it might not be worth it, so I’d just like people’s opinions on what you think has possibly caused these faults to occur and if it’s just a case of replacing the controller board and it will be fine or is this fault likely to be a symptom of another problem or have likely damaged other components.

I’m quite handy with a multimeter so if there’s anything I can do to test other parts then I’m open to suggestions!

Many Thanks in advance!

[electrofix]

if you can solder change the lnk chip and replace the fusible resistor and it will probably be ok

do lots of them and it works over 90{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time

if not this could well be the correct part but needs to be double checked

https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/1784070170-beko-dishwasher-control-module

Dave

[carlos_uk]

Thanks Dave, I should be able to solder in replacement parts but I’m struggling to identify the resistor as it’s got scorch marks on it so if you know what type it is then that would be great!

Heres a few links to some pictures….

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkVMp3_0qR4em7cCxDyYezJqig19AA

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkVMp3_0qR4em7Yo-_bzFgSbB6Ghlg

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkVMp3_0qR4em7Yp7WrntSRKsdF7Qg

Do you think the damage is likely limited to just these components?

Thanks.

[electrofix]

its going to be a low ohmage 3watt fusible
from the pic i would say the first band is brown so a best guess would be 100 ohm

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/throu…istors/8558778

like this
you may find it from other sources but as you can see its labelled safety resistor

Dave

and yes its highly possible that chip and resistor are the only casualties. it all depends if at the time of the chip blowing, was there any high voltage spike to damage other components but you wont know unless its powered up. That means either using an external power source or replacing the chip

[carlos_uk]

Thanks again Dave, there was nothing obvious at the time, it had only finished a cycle with no problems a few hours earlier and then when I loaded it up again and turned it on with the main switch nothing lit up, I didn’t hear any bang and nothing tripped out.

[carlos_uk]

I’ve found a picture of the board (thanks google) which I’ve linked below and from looking at the colour codes am I right in thinking it’s a 32ohm resistor?

Thanks.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkVMp3_0qR4em7cIH6E0MHjllKR0nQ

[electrofix]

yes look like 33 ohm

what you have to understand with this power supply and a lot of machines these days is they dont turn off. As long as the unit is plugged in and switched on the chip is live and consuming small amounts of power. The unit is effectively in stand by. So this means it can go pop anytime day or night

Dave

[carlos_uk]

Quick update, I’ve been unable to locate the full control board, apparently there are different variants for my model and the board required is obsolete and no longer available, I’ve got the correct part number from Beko and apparently there are no other boards that are compatible so I’ve opted for repairing the existing board and am awaiting the components to be delivered so will see what that brings, at least if this doesn’t work I’ve done everything I can to bring it back to life and will satisfy my principles that I inherited from my late grandfather that you should attempt to repair something if feasible before giving up on it.

I will of course post an update with how I get on

[carlos_uk]

Another update…….

The chip arrived a few days ago and I’ve successfully soldered that onto the board however I ordered the wrong resistor by mistake as I misread the description on eBay and got the wrong wattage (way too low).

I presume it’s definitely a fusible resistor I need as I’m having great difficulty getting hold of one as all the places that have them want to charge me loads for postage as I obviously just want to buy a few which eBay seems to be the best choice for this but they all just seem to be “standard” resistors?

Thanks.

[tubafan]

I’m guessing the body of that resistor is about 20mm long, in which case it’s likely a 3 watt one. It does need to be fusible type for safety.

[carlos_uk]

Yeah, 3 watts seems to be correct based on the size, I’ve also calculated that the maximum power flowing through the board is 3.78 watts.

Now all I need to do is try and source a couple for a reasonable price, it’s a shame there doesn’t seem to be anywhere I can walk into to get one anymore

I did think about getting a non-fusible one just to see if I can get the dishwasher to power up and then if it does I know that’s the fix and can get the proper one but obviously I don’t know what caused the components to fail originally so don’t want to risk setting fire to my house!

Thanks.

[carlos_uk]

I’m guessing this won’t do the job as it doesn’t mention it’s fusible?

sourcing map 40Pcs 33 Ohm Resistor, 3W 5{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} Tolerance Metal Oxide Film Resistors, Lead, Flame Proof for DIY Electronic Projects and Experiments https://amzn.eu/d/av1d7F2

[electrofix]

try
https://www.ecomposant.com/en/axial-3w/2705-2x-resistance-fusible-axial-33ohm-3w-5-255res631-3701177922184.html

or

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-resistors/8558737

Dave

[carlos_uk]

So……

I got the fusible resistor from RS Components who didn’t charge me £6.95 for delivery in the end, I soldered it on and connected the board back up and it still won’t power up so I’m guessing whatever caused it to blow in the first place has caused damage elsewhere, so I’m calling it a day now.

Thanks ever so much for all your help, I do really appreciate it

[electrofix]

before you call it a day if you want

check all connection

check you have mains voltage on the board

make sure all your solder joints are ok and you have not damaged tracks

if it was me i would check for voltage both on the high voltage caps whicH should be 300v DC ( be careful( and the low voltage caps ( probably 12VDC ) but only if you are competant and safe

Dave

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