Beko TLA6018S outer skin live (240 volts)

[Colin99]

Just thought I’d post a warning (and my first post here).

We have a 2 year old Beko TLA6018S larder fridge. For no apparent reason the outer skin has just started giving us electric shocks. We called an engineer who came out, tested the outer skin, cut the power cable and said “yup, thats live and dangerous. going up to 240 volts. And you cant fix that because the wiring is encased in the insulation”.

I’ve tried to open the side panels and he’s right. Its stuck together. So this is fit for recycling, which is annoying for such a simple fault – whats wrong with a wiring loom and some sort of channel for it?

The engineer was Beko approved (Beko gave us the number). So we reported this back to Beko in case a recall was required, before someone dies! Unfortunately their response was its outside of warranty so not our problem.

So you have been warned: a Beko TLA6018 can kill.

We’re now buying a Bosch and avoiding Beko like the plague.

[helo_75]

Re: Beko TLA6018S outer skin live (240 volts)

now thats probably the most ridiculous post ive seen in a long time

if the cabinet is live, then it should have gone down to earth, and blown the fuse/tripped the electrics

secondly.. how have wires enclosed in foam managed to damage themselves enough to catch the cabinet

all machines will kill if there isnt a suitable earth! id be checking my sockets/ plug from the appliance

something doesnt run true with the prognosis

[Dales-Electronic]

Re: Beko TLA6018S outer skin live (240 volts)

Now whilst my collegue Helo is not of a diplomatic nature being from Lancashire (wrong side of the Pennines) he has a point. The service engineer should have tested the socket first and having found the mains circuit safe, subsequently done a portable appliance test on the product. This would have told him where the fault was. It is as helo says unlikely that the cabling within the foam insulation is faulty, however it could be faulty at either the temperature control end or the compressor area. Whilst Beko may have recommended the engineer – seems like he was having a bad day :zap:

[helo_75]

bit like me i suppose.

in fairness on reading that, it doesnt look too tactful, but i do think that text can be read in a variety of different ways

but surely to come on here and post that message in that manner was unnesecary?

personally, if id have been called to that machine, id have made damn sure of the fault, not just cutting the plug off, and condemning it (especially since beko machines get a bit of condensation in the thermostat housing), but, in any eventuality, it should trip the main supply.

im pretty sure theres an earth problem, be that with the plug on the machine, or on the socket.. and the ‘beko’ recommended engineer was duty bound to clarify that.

my question would be to any engineer.. would you feel fine to leave that job, without at least determining that there was a suitable earth at the socket outlet?

i hope i know the answer

oh, and bein a lancashire lad aint all bad, is it?

lol

[Colin99]

Re: Beko TLA6018S outer skin live (240 volts)

Seems my post can also be read in many ways :). But thanks for the responses, and sorry if the post seems ridiculous and unnecessary, but I’m not an electrician and can only post what I’ve been told by beko and their engineer. So don’t shoot the messenger.

Frankly I’m not happy with Beko’s reponse. Whatever the reason for the faullt, the appliance is live and they, and their appointed representative, don’t give a shit.

If there is the potential for, say, a manufacturing fault wouldn’t you like to know?

I appreciate you are professional in your approach even if others aren’t. Possibly the ones Beko appoint in my area fall into the latter category!

However, in answer to your points.
1) Agreed, something should have blown. It didn’t which is why we called out the engineer.
2) I have no idea how wires encased in foam manage to catch the cabinet, if indeed they have – I thought this strange as well which is why I went back to Beko with this. I also hoped someone in the forum could answer that. Clearly you guys doubt it. Good, I’ll look elsewhere following your suggestions
3) The socket seems fine, at least all the ones in the house I tried.
4) I have no idea if he did a “portable appliance test”. How does that work/how would I know/can I do it my self?
5) condensation in the thermostat housing: Its been off for a few days, total dry, and it still does it. So can I rule that out?
6) I’ll investigate the sealed plug and wires etc. to see if I, non electrician that I am, can find a fault.

Finally, I’m also from the “wrong” side of the Pennines so appreciate where Helo is coming from, sort of.

cheers 🙂

[Author]

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