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I’ve got a broken paddle on this machine and have been advised that replacement paddles are not available – only complete drum assembly! I’ve sourced paddles that appear identical but I suspect the existing ones are fixed from behind – probably with a couple of screws. Can anyone advise……
a) Am I right in assuming the paddles are fixed from behind ? (I don’t want to force
old one off till I know for sure because I might have to resort to cataloy or
something!)b) Assuming they’re fixed from behind, does anyone have experience of either
accessing the screws via drain hose connection or possibly cutting an access
hatch on the plastic tub to get in? 💡The machine is roughly two years old and otherwise in perfect working order. A set of keys left in a trouser pocket took out the end of the paddle! :bang:
£183 quoted for new drum assembly – £229 for new machine! Madness!!
Re: Beko WMB714422W sealed tub paddle repair??
Well today I received the replacement paddle and have got it fitted no bother at all!!
First you need to get the correct replacement and what you need is one that fits any of these Bekos WM1510S, WM1510W, WM1512S, WM1512W, WM5100, WM5120S, WM5140S, WM5140W, WM6133S, WM6133W, WM6143W, WM6167S, WM7127W, WM7147S, WMA1510S, WMA1510W, WMA1512S, WMA1512W, WMA510, WMA510S, WMA510W, WMA520, WMA5200, WMA520S, WMA520W
The part is readily available on Ebay as well as other online spares suppliers but compare the shape and number of holes to be dead sure you’ve got the right one.
Notice that your machine isn’t listed. That’s not because it doesn’t use a standard Beko paddle but because the paddle used by the above models IS correct but has a couple of screws added from behind which are not accessible so Beko try to make out that it’s not replaceable!
Basically, all I did was to cut off the remnants of the old paddle using a Bosch ‘Multi’ cutter machine (one of these vibrating blade jobbies) If you’re careful you can cut away all the paddle apart from two remaining ‘plugs’ of plastic where the screws come up into it from below.
Once these ‘plugs’ are exposed you can cut right through them AND the screw, leaving the bulk of it in the outer drum and just the actual screw heads in the ‘tub’. This method leaves as little of the screw left in the machine as possible and it’s more than likely that the two screw heads will simply flush away.
As far as fitting the new paddle is concerned – it’s a complete doddle! (Power off for safety first of course.)You’ll see a ‘tab’ in the stainless steel of the drum that can be lifted with a screwdriver to make a lock for the paddle. Then you align the paddle with the slots in the drum (keep it as far to the back of the drum as possible for a start) Then slide the paddle towards the front of the drum and as you do so you’ll hear a click as the tab in the stainless steel engages with the ‘stop’ on the inside of the paddle. This is the standard way of fixing most washing machine paddles and provided the ‘tab’ has been raised far enough for the paddle to slide over it and lock the paddle will sit rock solid without any need for screws so you DON’T have to resort to cutting a hole on the outer drum to fit screws.
Notice that in the future the paddle can easily be removed by pushing a small bar down through one of the end holes to depress the ‘tab’ and thus release the paddle to slide along and out.
Note that if you don’t have a suitable electric cutter it would be perfectly possible to chop out the old paddle with hand tools, but probably more laborious because access is poor and the plastic is quite tough.
Be careful to remove any chippings of the old plastic from the drum before restarting the machine and investigate why the first paddle broke (possible debris left in the sump)
Hope this tip saves someone £183 for a drum assembly or even more for a new machine as it did me!
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