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Steven.
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May 9, 2011 at 12:08 pm #62670
Steven
ParticipantHi Guys
I have a built in bosch sge09a15gb/11 with a fault only washing top basket?
Initially it seems not sufficiant water pressure motor struggling and not running as fast as normal?
checked pcb on initial call ok and replaced motor, after a few days customer complaint still not washing on checking found that some components had blown (obvious) but it would still run through cycle even blown but again only wash top section.
sent pcb off to QER for repair the blown connection block went to diverter motor on heater box.
Checked it and meters out ok!even after repair of the pcb still only washing top basket?
So back to the start really of the initial fault?Fills meter box and delivers one full measurement only, does not seem to top up at any point also starts to heat too soon in my opinion does not do a cold pre rinse even on the intensive wash. Also customer kept on opening door to see if spray arms were going round i noted if you do this before it starts off again in pumps out a little water, so if customer did this 3 or 4 times eventually there would be no water left.
Washes but only top basket
heats and runs almost to time 😕the only thing i can think that it is stuck in half load option some how?
Or there has been a problem with pcb from the start?Has any one come across this and can the pcb be re programed and has anyone the details on carrying out this on this?
Appreciate all your help.
May 9, 2011 at 1:12 pm #350905Martin
ParticipantRe: bosch d/w sge09a15gb/11
Steven wrote:Has any one come across this and can the pcb be re programed and has anyone the details on carrying out this on this?
I pretty certain you’re ‘barking up the wrong tree’ here Steven. That the problem here is that the ‘water point device’ within the heater unit (268033) has failed only allowing the top spray arm to operate as per normal. Take it to bits and stick in a new heater unit and all will be sorted. 😀
May 9, 2011 at 2:08 pm #350906Steven
ParticipantRe: bosch d/w sge09a15gb/11
Just stuck a new one of those in for fun as well!
Still the same (exactly the same)? can it be coinsidance or faulty heater unit?May 9, 2011 at 3:46 pm #350907nomadPaul
ParticipantRe: bosch d/w sge09a15gb/11
Steve , a faulty diverter motor ( or water point motor as its called ) can also blow a triac on the control module . You say you’ve had the board repaired ? I would remove the board and examine the microchips carefully. You might find the top or corner of one ‘blown-off’ . If so , then it will need a new control module too 🙁
May 9, 2011 at 4:34 pm #350908Steven
ParticipantRe: bosch d/w sge09a15gb/11
It is a strange one never had an issue before usually either motor or heater box job done!
Remember checking board at the time of the motor issue it was ok, after having same problem and then replacing heater box and finding same issue problem rechecked the board which had damage to the diode and triacs the chip believe it or not was actually ok.
So not sure if it was old diverter box or new one that caused the damage to board?So had board repaired but still find only top arm working?
have rechecked board appears to be in tact.
So this leaves me with PCB fault! and or diverter issue as well? But as Im paying for this as according to customer misdiagnosed!? SHIT HAPPENS
May 13, 2011 at 12:23 pm #350909Steven
ParticipantRe: bosch d/w sge09a15gb/11
I thought I would just update this job and confirm it was a PCB fault, probably from the start? :rolls:
Very difficult one to confirm and whether other components did actually cause a problem and cause the board to fail 😳
Who knows now its got 2 new bits on at our expense but as said sh*t happens you learn from mistakes hopefully not to do this again.One thing after telling the customer it now working properly I could not believe his reaction and statement ‘I am glad we did not have to get lawyers involved’!! 😡
He was actually going to go down this road.. he already written a 3 page document of evidence, I cant believe the balls of some people, we are not here to ripp any one off it was a genuine diagnosis error.Maybe I should have just said theres yours money back cut my losses, but thats gratitude for you.
Dont you just love some customers ❓
Thanks for all your replies tho!
May 13, 2011 at 1:34 pm #350910Martin
ParticipantRe: bosch d/w sge09a15gb/11
Steven wrote:Thanks for all your replies tho!
If it’s any comfort Steven, but I’ve been there, done that, got the scars to prove it and the ruddy T shirt mate! 😯
The gutting thing about problems like this is there is little or no benefit of hindsight. And often you also fail to gain any hard knock experience as to how to avoid any chance of a repeat. 🙁
I’ve read through the posts and I’m a little confused as to the actual sequence of events? But nevertheless it appears that the water point device blew the module and ultimately resulting in both heater and module having been replaced to rectify. Well, I think that’s what happened anyroad?
It may be of little comfort for you to know that you’re not alone in a case like this by any means. I too suffered a very very similar event some 3 years or so back on a job over 20 odd miles away. So I did reflect on that experience and have applied a different tactic since, which so far, touch wood it has paid off.
What I did not realise back then, was that a water point device can fail in two different ways. Firstly that the cam gearing fails and there’s no effective geared drive between motor and cam. Or, that the little grey shaft seal leaks and water gets into the motor. With the former (and most common in my experience) you only need to change the water heater unit to fix it. In the latter case, invariably it blows the chip/triac on the PCB as well!
The trick is trying to come to a full and correct diagnosis prior to attempting to repair. With free-standing machines it’s so much easier just to take off the right hand side panel and check for leaks and water stains directly underneath the water point motor. And a simple task to also inspect the pcb for damage.
Integrated machines are more of a caution and I find it’s best to check the PCB for damage first or quote for fitting both if getting the machine out is a potential problem.
Hope that helps? And well for you once again….:tup:
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