Bosch D/washer Leaking Into Base – Mystery!

[laurenceuk]

Hi,

Bosch SMS65E02GB/02 All metal tank. ‘Check Water’ light on and E15 in display window.

1st Visit found water had lifted float and operated switch. Cleared out water and error disappeared. Ran machine on Quick Wash and looked for leak. Let it run until approx 15 mins before program finished, no leaks appearing or water filling the float well up to this point. Left machine with customer to complete cycle.

Recieved a call from the office in the van approx 25mins later to say machine error had recurred. I returned to the customer and removed panels to find water had lifted the float again. Customer said error occurred jus before end of program.

Cleared away water then ran on rinse only. Completed this program.

Ran it on quick wash again. Observed for a while but no leak observed. Left it with customer again. Later today customer rang to say same thing had happened before the end of the program.

I intend returning Monday to watch it through the entire quick wash program.

If anyone has any insights it would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Laurence

[Martin]

Re: Bosch D/washer Leaking Into Base – Mystery!

Sump gasket leaking but only once it gets to high temp?
Fill matrix collar/gasket on side of tub?
Salt container gasket?

[laurenceuk]

Re: Bosch D/washer Leaking Into Base – Mystery!

Thanks Martin, I’ll keep my eye on these areas on Monday.

Laurence

[aqualectric]

Re: Bosch D/washer Leaking Into Base – Mystery!

This is an old item I posted a while back – the first two sections are for all newer style (dispenser at the top middle of the door) BSH group dishwashers and the last is for the plastic Polynox base machines.

I’ve managed to crack this problem; done loads; discovered the issues; fixed them……..none come back…all reported working OK. Machines will never leak on short cycles. They will only leak on the hottest longest wash (70 degree intensive) 15 minutes before the end of the cycle. That’s why leaks seem to be impossible to replicate on short test. The cumulative effect of several cycles will eventually trip the safety float switch. 😡 If you want to find the exact location of the leak, remove the plinth, panel behind, both sides and put folded kitchen paper across the entire base tray (easy to do) and run it on 70 intensive – it will leak from the rear left side 90 {e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time.

Leak location 1. The leak will be on the air vent coming through the left side of the machine.

Drain down and remove all water from the sump and salt compartment. Remove body panels. Remove the air chamber (left side of machine) and clean the vent and lower nozzle (goes through the side of the tank near the salt cap). Reseal with heatproof silicone; the same stuff used for cooker door glass bonding. On inspection, the vent seal is the main culprit as it sits in between the chamber lip and the pressing hole in the stainless tank. It can move around and is rarely tight; in fact any amount of vent tightening will not stop it leaking. To fix it – run a small bead of silicone around the neck of the vent on the plastic chamber and set the seal into it. Then run a further bead around the outside of that seal. Don’t forget to put a token spread around the lower nozzle seal as well. Refit, tighten both the vent and the nozzle – no more leaks.

Leak location 2. Leaks showing around sump joint. Sump screws are always loose.

This loose fitting of the sump can lead to leaks on long hot washes.
Tighten all four screws in a diagonal pattern. It is not unusual to get 3/4 of a turn on each; but don’t force them. Then test with paper in the base tray. If it still leaks, new sump required. The place for leaks on the sump is usually around the diverter valve location; push a slither of paper on top of the ridge above the diverter to detect any water.

Leak location 3. Leak showing down the back of the machine from the tank to plastic base joining seal. Seal groove opens up around the back and sides – invariably seeps water into base tray. If you remove the bottom basket you will notice a distinct curve in the right sidewall of the tank; the left side less so.

These machines were the stainless steel tank and grey plastic Polynox base moulded types with the groove that the tank sits in. The screws at the rear corners and on the lower door frame (just in front of the door seal) are always loose. A good repair of the joint seal can be made by thoroughly cleaning out the groove and filling it with heatproof silicone (same as mentioned above) smooth with a wet soapy spatula, pressing it in as you go. The air chamber will have to be removed to fully seal the left side of the tray joint; reseal the chamber as above.

Hope that helps!!

Steve.

[laurenceuk]

Re: Bosch D/washer Leaking Into Base – Mystery!

Thanks Steve,
Went back and inspected areas closely. Did find 2 rear screws of sump hose could be tightened 2-3 turns each. Not heard back since Monday so hoping your sage advice worked – thanks again.

I seem to be have some pig jobs lately with these newer Bosch dish washers. Looked at a Bosch SMS50T22GB/34 yesterday. ‘Check Water’ light coming on. She said it has happened before then gone away but returned. No water in base, put it through a Quick Wash and no problems. Left saying could be the sensor in tank or board, see how it goes and ring me. She did today saying fault back and same. Am I correct with ref to sensor or board and am I right observing that it comes as part of the tank?

Thanks again for those great pointers, now printed off and in my folder.

Laurence

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