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model no smv40t10gb/18
have replaced a few of these pumps, normally for earth faults
has anyone had these causing leaks?, got this one with a tiny leak but never seems to show up whilst lookingRe: bosch heat pump
Bosch dishwasher leak from heat pump not had; Yet !
but leak in base many times, can rarely find the cause 😕
I dread the E15 error when customer calls.
CliveRe: bosch heat pump
smeghead wrote:Bosch dishwasher leak from heat pump not had; Yet !
but leak in base many times, can rarely find the cause 😕
I dread the E15 error when customer calls.
Clive
Same here Clive
Tiny pool is just underneath pump, guess I’m going to have to spend more time lookingRe: bosch heat pump
Did one a few weeks ago,the leak was coming from the cover seal on the left hand side tank.
Re: bosch heat pump
Andy , is this a complete stainless steel tub or a plastic base model? If its a plastic base and the water is appearing on the RHS , have a look along the tub/base join on that RHS and at the rear. If there’s any sign of Yellow gunge build up or if when you press the sides in where it sits in the base and you can see water , then it’s probably the base/tub seal leaking. If its a full stainless steel tub , you might see yellow gunge build up on the underside of the sump where the tub sits on it, then the sump seal is leaking.
The leak normally appears at the point the water reaches its hottest level.Re: bosch heat pump
Agree with NomadPaul. After having loads of problems with these dishwashers I have come up with several solutions to crack these problems; discovered the issues; fixed them……..none come back…all reported working OK.
Machines will virtually never leak on short cycles. They will only leak on the hottest longest wash (70 degree intensive) 15 minutes before the end of the cycle. That’s why leaks seem to be impossible to replicate on short test. The cumulative effect of several cycles will eventually trip the safety float switch. If you want to find the exact location of the leak, remove the plinth, panel behind, both sides and put folded kitchen paper across the entire base tray (easy to do) and run it on 70 intensive – it will leak from the rear left side 90 {e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time. Never had a heatpump leak; always been a leak from elsewhere.Leak location 1. The leak will be on the air vent coming through the left side of the machine.
Drain down and remove all water from the sump and salt compartment. Remove body panels. Remove the air chamber (left side of machine) and clean the vent and lower nozzle (goes through the side of the tank near the salt cap). Reseal with heatproof silicone; the same stuff used for cooker door glass bonding. On inspection, the vent seal is the main culprit as it sits in between the chamber lip and the pressing hole in the stainless tank. It can move around and is rarely tight; in fact any amount of vent tightening will not stop it leaking. To fix it – run a small bead of silicone around the neck of the vent on the plastic chamber and set the seal into it. Then run a further bead around the outside of that seal. Don’t forget to put a token spread around the lower nozzle seal as well. Refit, tighten both the vent and the nozzle – no more leaks.
Leak location 2. Leaks showing around sump joint. Sump screws are always loose.
This loose fitting of the sump can lead to leaks on long hot washes.
Tighten all four screws in a diagonal pattern. It is not unusual to get 3/4 of a turn on each; but don’t force them. Then test with paper in the base tray. If it still leaks, new sump required. The place for leaks on the sump is usually around the diverter valve location; push a slither of paper on top of the ridge above the diverter to detect any water.Leak location 3. Leak showing down the back or sides of the machine from the tank to plastic base joining seal. Seal groove opens up around the back and sides – invariably seeps water into base tray.
These machines were the stainless steel tank and grey plastic base moulding types with the groove that the tank sits in. The screws at the rear corners and on the frame are always loose. A good repair of the joint seal can be made by thoroughly cleaning and drying out the groove and filling it with heatproof silicone (same as mentioned above) smooth with a wet soapy spatula, pressing it in as you go. The air chamber will have to be removed to fully seal the left side of the tray joint; reseal the chamber as above. Tighten the frame screws and reassemble.
Hope that helps!!
Steve.
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