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The drum on my dryer wont turn unless I give it ‘a start’. Once it starts turning it goes until it stops to change direction and then it needs a ‘push’ again. Does the belt need replaced or is it something else?
Hope you can helpRe: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
sounds like a motor-capacitor or worn carbon brushes in the motor.
Do a forum search and you should find all the info. you need to establish your problem……contact “parts” at UK Whitegoods and you’ll get them super-fast 😆
Re: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
It’s a capacitor start/run motor on this machine. If it runs when you push it off, it almost certainly needs a new capacitor. This is not an available spare on the parts listing – you can have a new motor and capacitor for £161, or you can pull the plug, put the machine on its back, remove the base panel and find the capacitor and tell us the “uf” rating. The Shop@ facility on the task bar on the left will have a matching one.
Penguin45.
Re: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
Thanks for the help.
Forgot to add that I can hear the ‘motor’ trying to turn, does the capacitor give a power boost to get the dru going? Also, I think the heater has gone. Any easy way I check this, given that the drum probelm ?Re: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
Start with changing the capacitor first to get the drum turning once more. Only a check with a multimeter will tell if the element has gone AWOL? Usually it’s just symptomatic of a duff capacitor in my experience…. 😀
Re: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
Thanks again Martin.
I’ll get a capacitor and see how i goes from there.
Here’s hopingRe: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
Use a multimeter…..disconnect one side of the heater….measure resistance between the 2 terminals ~25-30 ohms, iirc. higher is likely burnt out. lower would probably be shorted and fail leakage test below.
then measure either terminal to earth (heater sheath or bracket)….meter shouldn’t move!….digital should be many K-ohms or Megs. anything lower= earth leakage.
Order your parts altogether from the site shop,I’ll be amazed if they dont hit the doorstep within 24 hours 😀
I tried adding something 20 minutes later and order hed already been processed!!!!!Re: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
Thanks steve, but they were too quick. The capacitor was dispatched before i’d read your post lol.
Is there a link that explains the best way to change the capacitor ?Re: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
Just had a look at the flightless one’s reference and it already has 1/4 ” Lucar connectors (in plain english, spade terminals )
If the wiring harness is already terminated with push-on spades, it’s easy-peasy (just make sure polarity is correct,IF the cap is polarised )
Any car -spares shop will sell you the appropriate “spades” which can be soldered or crimped to the ends of the wires.
If there’s not a mounting -bracket for the cap, you can tie-wrap it to secure it.
(the casing appears to be fully insulated and i get a feeling it is not polarity -sensitive….bung one wire ,from the old one, to one side of the new one, repeat with second wire….fix it so it doesn’t get bashed around, job’s a good’un. 😆
Re: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
ty.
Hate to be pain, but best way to get access is relly what i meanRe: Bosch WTA 4007GB is it just the belt?
*note to self….read the question properly!* 😳
The above comments on testing an element, only apply to a sheathed element .
(looks like a kettle or cooker-element….if yours is the thin-wire type it’ll be fairly obvious.Secondly….there will be a safety-stat / stats in series with the heater. Some are self-resetting, when they cool down, others have to be changed if they go open-circuit.
Don’t make the assumption that no heat = faulty heater…TEST THE CIRCUIT.
UNPLUG FIRST!
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