Britannia induction rangecooker SI-INE10T-SLX-S oven&clock turning off during heating

[mgrant]

I recently purchased Britannia range cooker that was manufactured in 2011 and sat in a showroom unused. (Purchased as-is) It’s an induction model with 6 burners and 2 oven cavities. The induction controls are by physical knobs on the front just like a gas hob. Britannia support tells me this cooker was manufactured by GlenDimplex for them.

When I turn on the oven, say to 225C and let it heat up, after about 15 minutes, the oven AND the clock go off. However, the hobs and right hand oven work fine. After about 10-15 min of cooling, the clock comes back on, reset to 00:00, and the left hand oven works again.

The clock/timer can control the left hand oven. It seems to me that a heat sensor is sensing a too-hot situation and cutting out the clock and hence also the left oven.

I am guessing it’s possibly the clock module itself has a thermistor, or it could be a faulty cut-out thermostat in the oven, or possibly even some internal circulator fan that keeps the electronics from getting too hot which has seized up. Is there such an internal fan in these units? Looking at photos of the clock module online, I don’t see any obvious thermistors, only a couple relays and a beeper. Remember, this unit sat in a showroom for more than a decade, it could be some seized up fan inside.

I’ve searched for videos of people tearing down these or similar units but haven’t found any. I’d like to see some video before trying to lift off the glass where the hobs are. I’m not sure if anything is connected special there that I need to worry about. A repair manual would be great!

But before I start digging into it, does anyone have any advise or ideas?

Is there an internal circulator fan to keep the electronics cool in these units? Is there a safety thermistor somewhere other than the cut-off? Is it likely to be the clock module itself? Or does anyone know exactly what’s wrong?

Thanks

[kwatt]

I’d need the ART number to be able to look anything up for you as is explained here:

Britannia Domestic Appliances

It does sound as if it could just be a faulty timer though.

Videos of the specific machine, not a hope and service manuals do not exist for them.

K.

[mgrant]

Art. PDI100MP

If you have more information on this model, thanks for that!

In your opinion, do these timers have thermistors in them? Is there a circulator fan in these units?

[kwatt]

The timer is:

https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/a44646-britannia-electronic-timer

And as to fans, there’s a cooling fan at the back of it and a main oven fan but that’s about it really.

K.

[Lawrence]

it sounds like its the oven thermostat faulty , its going to max and cutting out on the overheat stat

[mgrant]

Would that just cut off the oven? The clock goes off as well which is what is confusing me. I wonder if there a safety thermistor somewhere…

[kwatt]

It could do, yes.

K.

[electrofix]

there is always an overheat stat that will trip if the cooling fan is not running

some units the clock stays on and some it doesn,t. I dont know which you cooker is but

you need to find the fan and check it turns freely and if it is is it electrically sound. You need to do this to eliminate it as the fault

Dave

[kwatt]

I can’t recall on those cookers what around it is Dave but either are possible.

The clock can be a problem but the cooling fan, stat and overheat whilst they do go aren’t especially unreliable and of course, any one of them would give that symptom of cutting the power till it cooled off and reset. Usually though, if the cooling fan goes you’d get the user complaining of noise as it’s one the bearings tend to fail on in the motor.

Only thing you can do is investigate the possible causes to try to determine what one it is.

K.

[Lawrence]

a couple of quick ways to ascertain if its the stat, if you leave the stat dial at 12oclock and start the oven does the stat indicator light come on immediately without you touching it 9If it does then its the stat) or put an oven thermometer in the cavity and set it to 150 deg and see what temp it is when it cuts off

[mgrant]

Today a friend and I opened the back of the stove.

F is the internal circulator cooling fan
RL is the righthand lamp (facing the front)
LL is the lefthand lamp
T is the cutoff thermostat

I reproduced the problem by disconnecting T thus simulating an over-temperature condition, indeed the oven and clock go off no matter the temperature of the oven.

I tested the fan F by using a test lead to the hot side of RL lamp. The circulator fan functions well. This fan cools the top part of the oven so that all the wires don’t melt if it gets too hot. This isn’t a cooking fan.

I heated up the right cavity (seen from front, the one with the RL lamp in it) and after maybe 15-20 min, the circulator fan indeed comes on.

I removed the safety thermostat T from it’s holder and dangled it behind the oven so it couldn’t sense the temperature of the frame and ran the left oven. Ut heats up to temperature, but the circulator fan F does not come on. It’s as if there is some bad cross connection to that fan or some other sensor not telling the circulator fan to come on. Is there some other sensor somewhere that tells that circulator fan to come on? Where would that be? I didn’t see anything obvious.

Or maybe it could be a bad or mis-wired oven selector switch on the left hand oven? I don’t know and I would need a wiring diagram to see if that could be the case.

My previous oven, that circulator fan came on as soon as the oven went on. I was a little surprised it came on only when the righthand cavity heated up so there must be some sensor for that somewhere.

I’m fairly convinced it’s not a bad clock module. It’s not a bad temperature security cut-off. And it’s not a bad circulator fan.

The problem definitely seems to lie in whatever turns on the circulator fan when the lefthand oven heats up. Any ideas?

[electrofix]

often there is another stat just to activate the cooling fan

Dave

[kwatt]

I’d look for the obvious first as Lawrence suggested.

K.

[mgrant]

I fixed it.

I traced every single wire in the unit. I discovered the two additional heat sensors, a total of 3.

There is a normally-closed cut-out sensor on the top-back-lefthand part of the oven, outside the oven, which when the temperature is above 145C clicks open and turns off the main oven and clock. Oddly, this doesn’t affect the right-hand oven, I did not find a second cut-off sensor.

Secondly, there are 2 normally-open sensors which when the temperature is above 45C clicks closed and turns on a squirll fan that circulates air over the top of the oven and down over the front. These 2 sensors are situated, one each on the thermostat knob, behind the front panel of the unit.

When the right-hand oven is on, the normally-open sensor near the right hand oven clicks closed turning on the circulator fan.

When the left-hand oven is on, the circulator fan doesn’t go on. I pulled this sensor out and tested it by heating it up slowly in a frying pan and watching the temperature using an IR digital thermostat. It clicks on at almost exactly 45C.

The sensor on the left oven is attached to the base of the thermostat knob sandwiched between the oven selector and the thermostat and is directly over an air opening over the door. It simply seems like the oven heat in this area doesn’t go above 45C before the cut-out temperate pops off. What I ended up doing was simply move this sensor and using a C-shaped bent piece of metal, I clipped it to the metal plate that holds the clock. The metal plate is rivited to the top of the oven, so it gets hot by conduction. Now, when the oven comes up to temparature, the internal circulator fan comes on and the cut-off temperature is never reached. The circulator stays on quite a long time after the oven is off, probably way longer than it needs to, but the problem seems to be solved!

Incidentally, I also tested the cut-out sensor in a frying pan and it clicks at almost exactly the correct temperature. So I’m very confident that all the little sensors are infact functioning as marked.

In conculsion, this seems like a manufacturing defect. It’s difficult for me to understand how this unit was mass produced and this problem never seen. It could also be the way oven is situated, but it was not right up against a wall. The problem occured even with the oven out away from the wall (with back closed).

Clipping the cut-on sensor for the circulator fan to the metal that holds the clock seems like it’ll protect that clock module which contains lots of plastic.

There is an empty hole filled with an orange neon indicator holder on the other side of the right-hand oven thermostat. I don’t know what it was meant for. Both ovens have indicator lamps showing when the oven is heating, this is a third “blank”. I’d like to connect up an indicator to see when the circulator fan is running. I can’t seem to find a replacement part for an oven heating indicator lamp. It looks like relatively standard neon lamp in a slim 6-7mm package. I looked for such a part on ebay without success. Any suggestions on where to find such a small part?

Thanks for everyone’s help in solving this!

[jdp_uk]

I found this thread diagnosing an overheat issue with my Britannia range, ceramic hob version.

It’s a 2009 model but we’ve had it 3 years. Like yours, it has always been prone to tripping if the fan oven was set over 220c. Clock turns off, after five minutes reset and carry on. I wonder whether the fan sensor needs moving, like yours.

However – I thought I’d add here for future Google searchers – last week it started tripping much lower – below 100. Bit inconvenient ..

I took the overheat stat off (two screws to remove the back panel that side, stat on top corner), tested it with a multimeter and it only took a little bit of heat to trip it, definitely not the 140c it’s rated for. So I swapped it with the one from the non-fan oven (it’s in the middle of that oven’s back panel, where the fan would be if it had one). All working good, dinner saved, and I’ll order a replacement. Both ovens have a Campini TY60 rated at 140 degrees. Wonder if they get more sensitive with age.

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