Defrost element testing

[nickhenderson]

Tested my defrost element with a digital multimeter and got readings of 0 Ohms on all the ranges. Im presuming this indicates a defective element but would any more knowledgeable soul confirm my “guess”?
Thanks.

[electrofix]

you cant have an element of zero ohms that would cause the fuse to go in the plug and probably damage the pcb

you must be on the wrong scale. It will read under 100 ohms

Dave

[nickhenderson]

Thanks for this feedback. I will test it again tonight on varying scales and see if i can get a reading somewhere. Super helpful feedback!

[nickhenderson]

Would anyone know if the defrost element is 240V or stepped down? I guess another test “Could” be to apply current to both ends and see if it heats up. Very non PC i do realize but it “could” be a work around “proof of life” sort of thing.

[nickhenderson]

Just an update, got around to testing again with the meter set on a lower range and got 89 Ohms so i guess the heater element is okay.
Going to splash out on a replacement Defrost Thermostat from the link here on the site. Plus a few fridge buls to replace dead ones over the years.

[nickhenderson]

New issue is although the compressor is running and hot, freezer evap coil is not cooling enough to lower temp. It looks like either the temp sensor is duff or main board.
Here are ther readings from Tech Service sheet as to values at certain temps.
Genuine Whirlpool is like 50 quid plus but there are very similar ones online for far less.
Only issue is they are listed as 2K, 2.1, 2.4, 5 or 10K Ohms.
Anyone know which would be applicable given my tech sheet chart?
Thanks in advance.

[electrofix]

well from what your saying its time to scrap it

if the compressor is running then that means any sensors have done their job so they cant cause this

you problem now is either a failed compressor or lack of refrigerant

if its lack of gas there must be a leak somewhere to lose and if its a compressor its going to cost and its not a DIY job

Dave

[nickhenderson]

Nice, didnt see the link that if compressor is running, sensors have signaled it to run. Thanks for pointing that one out!

[nickhenderson]

In reply to Dave, had a local tech come out to look at re gassing. He cut the lines and there was still pressure inside.
Did a leak down test for 30 mins anyway and all was good.
Re gassed and 24hrs later all is great. Cooling very well, error codes gone and appears all back to normal.
I guess after 18 yrs it’s not bad.
Cost to re gas was equivalent of 50 quid.
Fingers crossed I get another 18 yrs out of this charge.

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