DI6013D-1 SMEG dishwasher overfilling

[Tidysailor]

So our d/w was leaking into the base and cutting out and it looked like the bottom door seal was leaking so I replaced the seal. Still leaking and cutting out so I replaced the level switch. Have now seen it is overfilling past the bottom door seal with water pouring into the bottom tray and cutting out the d/w. Have tried both the rinse program and the short wash program with same result on both. The fill valve switches off when I change programs so don’t think it’s that. Can anyone suggest what I should try next please preferably before my wife kicks me out!!!

[kwatt]

Probably an issue with the air break chamber on the left side, looking from the front. Either blocked or the small counter faulty that’s in it.

K.

[Tidysailor]

Thanks K……….will take a look!!!

[electrofix]

also check the wiring loom as it leaves the bottom of the door for broken wires

Dave

[Tidysailor]

Well I found the plastic air break chamber but can’t see a counter and there’s no electrical connections anywhere? When I run a cycle the d/w pumps out the sump first then starts filling. The clean water runs down through the centre one of the three round pipes at the bottom of the ABC and through what I think is the softener unit? D/W still overfilling and I can’t see anything unusual but I don’t know what to look for!!!

[kwatt]

On most, there is a little magnetic reed switch that “counts” the water into the chamber. But I’m not sure how it’s done on that exact model and the imagery I can access isn’t great but in the end, there’s the fill chamber and the pressure switch and that’s all that controls water level far as I am aware.

K.

[electrofix]

unplug dishwasher
remove pipe from level switch

open door and put about a pint of water in the unit

then put your mouth on the pipe you have taken off the level switch and blow. you should hear bubbles inside the machine. If you can blow through the tube but cant hear bubbles add a bit more water . then suck a little of the water up the tube and blow it back out again. by doing this you trying to clear the pressure chamber of debris

then mop the water out before replacing the level switch tube and try it

Dave

[Tidysailor]

Dave, we got progress!!! Blew through the pipe and got bubbles and some little specs of dirt last night. Tried to run the d/w this morning and its running through the rinse program. Still some water leaking into the bottom tray from the door I think. Can’t see any evidence of where it’s from though??

[electrofix]

well it cant be overfilling

check the holes in the bars for blockages and give door seal a good clean including under the bottom of the door inside and see where you go from there

Dave

[Tidysailor]

So now I’ve taken the galv metal door front off so I can look down onto the ends of the bottom seal whilst dw is running. DW fills, open door check level is ok. Restart and wash arms start – can hear them. Water now leaking out between end of the bottom seal and the rubber corner plugs, I already fitted new ones. No play in door hinges so door seems to be fitting properly. Removed and cleaned the top door seal, 3 sides, and replaced. Water still leaking at the bottom. Should I try some sort of sealant? Not sure what would be waterproof at dw temperature, I think we’re talking some sort of auto gasket goo which would be ridiculous!!

[electrofix]

check the bars, make sure all the holes are clear and the bars are in good condition with no splits in the sides

Dave

[Tidysailor]

So Dave you were right!! I eventually found a split in the bottom spray arm that I have now replaced. During the course of this saga have also replaced the noisy drain pump, the broken level switch, the bottom door seal and the corner seals. The seals were not really the problem but they’re done now. Once I’d fitted the new spray arm I watched the m/c through a cycle and discovered, surprise surprise, that the bottom door seal is not intended to be completely waterproof!! Water can get behind it but not enough to flood the m/c as it then drains back through the two half inch cutaways in the rubber. I wondered what they were for? So it’s cost me some time but still cheaper than getting the engineer in and I’ve learned some lessons for next time!! Thanks Dave.

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