DW686 stopped mid cycle – hasn’t drained – all lights on

[richonlybyname]

Model: BEKO DW686
Stock No: 7691433842
Serial No: 13-511237-09

As per the thread title – my dishwasher greeted me this morning with a sticky mess of dishes. The dishwasher appears to have stopped part way through the cycle (with water still inside).

Switching it on and off and pressing the buttons on the panel seems to have no effect.

All the lights on the LCD panel are on (program number, salt, rinse aid, time numbers etc).

I couldn’t see an explantation for this when looking for error codes, which mine isn’t displaying! Please could somebody advise first steps?

Thanks!

Richard

[electrofix]

first thing to check is the pump is not blocked with glass etc

most Beko pumps can be got to through the panel under the door. the pump probably have a plastic locking clip and it twists and comes off. you can then check for bits of glass crockery etc. Drain all the water out by hand before removing pump and make sure the plug is out

Dave

[richonlybyname]

Thanks Dave,

I’ve removed the panel – do I need to remove the pump to check for blockages? Guessing it’s this (see link) I would need to remove and check white impeller is doing its job?

https://www.bekospares.co.uk/dishwasher/dw686-7691433842/drain-pump/product.pl?pid=1113285&path=61208&model_ref=2506690

Thanks, Richard

[electrofix]

correct remove pump. the picture you found does not show clips

go to https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/1740301000-beko-other-dishwasher-drain-pump

picture 3 you can see the slots on the back of the pump which has plastic clips to stop pump falling off. you have to push these clips out of the way to unclip it

by the way gen part no of pump is 1748200100

the website you found purposely hides the numbers to stop comparison

Dave

[richonlybyname]

Hi Dave

Thanks, managed to get it off. Looks as clean as a whistle, the impeller turns freely but seems to have a bit of bounce in it.

Richard

[electrofix]

should have a bounce to it that’s normal. carefully put you finger where it came out (in case of glass) and check its clear

Dave

[richonlybyname]

Hi Dave,

Nothing in there that I can find. Fingers still intact!

However, running a continuity test on the pump using the 2 terminals I unplugged the power from shows an open circuit. So I guess it’s faulty.

Also, I can see some fluid in the plastic housing behind the impeller, not sure if that’s meant to be there to lubrica the shaft for the imepller or it’s water getting where it shouldn’t be?

What next, replace the pump?

Richard

[electrofix]

when you test pump continuity make sure you meter is not on the bottom scale as it may be too low. according to tech should be 168 ohms

if its still open. take a close look at the windings see if they look burnt.

what your trying to find out is did it burn out or just break a wire. if it burnt out there is a chance its damaged the board

Dave

[richonlybyname]

I just tested my kettle and that showed 20 ohms which Google suggests is right. Still showing open circuit for the pump.

I think probably burnt out. There is a broken wire on the coil I can see now, but I’m pretty sure I did that trying to prise the plastic section away! Also, I do remember an electrical burning smell coming from the vicinity of the dishwasher when it was running the night prior to the breakdown. Which now makes sense..

Does the ‘all lights on’ situation suggest a circuit board failure? Can I test, should I switch the machine on without pump to see if I get an error code?

Richard

[electrofix]

not necessarily but maybe

you could strip the timer and look for track and component damage

Dave

[richonlybyname]

I’ve taken the front off the door. It seems like the unit has been leaking rinse aid from the rinse aid reservoir (that explains why the light has been flickering on and off for the past six months or so and it’s been gobbling rinse aid!).

Not had a chance to look at the boards yet. Been a very long day and not much in the mood for playing around with dishwashers any longer, but will investigate further tomorrow!

Could the rinse aid issue be enough to destroy the PCB or is there not enough current going through the sensor to cause damage?

[richonlybyname]

PS. Are those plastic tubes (coming from just below the power switch and from the PCB meant to be connected to anything – or are they attached to pressure switches to kill the power if the door starts filling up with water? i.e. to prevent water coming into contact with the electrics

[electrofix]

they are just drain hoses in case water gets in the switches at the top. if it does water will dribble down the tube and leak out in the bottom half of the door where is away from electrics

Dave

[richonlybyname]

Hi Dave

OK – I’ve checked the timer board. It looks intact. However, the other board looks like it has some burning on it, can’t tell how recent though. Here are the pics- of the board and the plastic backing plate which seems to have got burnt too:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SBi1dy1ltPrAk3zH69O-OhD2gpg8DAvf/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DUgxKayy8vHmivgkPI5Eeud3qUZP9mfj/view?usp=sharing

Reckon that’s it?

Richard

[electrofix]

well that’s a serious bang. its blown those resistors up

those 3 plugs on that side on goes the other panel, one goes the temp sender and the other goes to a sensor in the base called a turbidity sensor

don’t know what has caused the resistors to blow. could be water ingress or another component causing it

at the very least you need that board but you need to find out why it blew

board part no 1755700400 but cant see any stock online quickly

Dave

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