E15 / E09 on Bosch Logixx SMS69L22GB/43

[ukwg]

The other night I set the Boschen Washen going and tried to head to bed. A couple of minutes later, I was called back by the double beep, usually associated with mission accomplished. Sadly, this time I was met by an E15 error. I went to bed. The next morning I looked up E15 and it suggested a flood in the bottom of the machine. Helpfully, the genius designers at Bosch arranged it so that all of the plant was in the bottom and one has to remove the sides, top and door to get at it. The mind boggles. Once reaching the bottom, I can indeed confirm that there was a flood. It wasn’t biblical level or anything and there was no Arc but there was sufficient water to activate the float sensor. I mopped up and dried everything off and ran a test wash. The dish washer came back to life and I was smug. It was short lived. The program appeared to end around 20 minutes earlier than I had expected and when I opened to door, I was met with semi clean dishes and an E09. Also, it was uncharacteristically cold in the dish washer. I powered off for a while and ran another test result with the same E09 and coldness. On a positive note, there was no water in the bottom. Reading up on E09, I understand it indicates an issue with the head pump. Around six years ago, I had a similar issue with the water being cold and an error code that was fixed by replacing the heat pump. I don’t recall the error code just having to strip the entire dish washer to get at it.

I’m fairly confident that the heat pump is indeed cream crackered. I’m just posting out of curiosity to see if anyone has seen this sort of thing before. Particularly I’m curious if the E15 and E09 are linked in any way. They seem unrelated to me but that the same time, I can’t help but think it’s a strange coincidence. Also, I am curious as to where the water came from. After mopping it up, I haven’t seem any more and in my (albeit limited) experience, leaks aren’t in the habit of fixing themselves. I am also reminded of the famous Oscar Wilde quote “to get one E code might be considered a misfortune but to get two looks like carelessness”.

[electrofix]

always a hard one when it wont leak

to check heat pump remove the outer door and lower kick striip

you should then be able to get at the heater connection and check the heater with a meter

Dave

[ukwg]

Thanks for the info. How does one go about checking the heating element? Can it be done with the pump in situ or does it need removing? I’ve had a look and I see three connectors. One with two fairly beefy red wires and a CPC, which I assume is power to the unit. One connector to the end with three purple wires (I’m assuming is C&C to the motor (I think Bosch parlance may be D-Bus) and three grey wires next to the assumed power in, which I assume is C&C for the heater. One assumes one needs to dig a little deeper to find the contacts for the heating element?

[electrofix]

can be done in situe

beefy wires on the side

multimeter on low ohm should read well under 100 ohms if its higher its gone

Dave

[ukwg]

Thanks for the info. I removed the power connector and suck a meter on it. I got around 10 MegaOhms. My initial reaction was that this could be overcome with a really high voltage power supply but they seemed a little pricey, so I opted to purchase a replacement heat pump instead.

[electrofix]

at least these pump are not too hard to fit

just wish they still used the old design which was good for 10 years plus

Dave

[ukwg]

How long do they last these days? I got the dish washer around 14 years ago and the first pump lasted 8 years, I think I’ve got just under six out of this one. I’ve fitted a replacement pump and the water is now getting hot. Trouble is, it’s also leaking. It looks like it’s coming from the sump seal, which I’ve heard they do tend to fail. I noticed there was a sheen around the exposed rubber and sticking a paper towel to it soaked up some water. It’s left me wondering if the water had dripped onto the heat pump and knackered it. Does one need to buy a new sump, as I’ve heard or is there someone that does replacement seals or knows of any clever workarounds?

[electrofix]

dont know if it will fit your model but lots of utube videos on it

looks like part no is 12005744

but check with suppler its ok for your model

Dave

[kaibart]

It will be the sump that’s leaked on the heat pump there is a sump seal kit that dave has posted but good luck fitting it as this is very easy to snap/break trying to fit s better option is to change the sump completely

[ukwg]

Perhaps a little late for that advice, I’m afraid. I had already ordered a replacement gasket. It arrived on Saturday, although I haven’t had a chance to tackle fitting it. Do you have any advice? The video I’ve seen on FaceTube seemed to suggest unscrewing the sump and teasing it into place from the inside. Would it be better to turn the machine upside down, remove the bottom and then remove the sump entirely?

[electrofix]

I have not fitted one but from the videos it looks very fiddly

Dave

[matrixresonator]

Loosen the screws and let the sump drop a little. There’s a couple of tabs to break off and the new seal needs lifting over 2 areas.
As kaibart says it can be very fiddly and the seals can break just from looking at them.

I put some rinse aid on the new seal which helps massively. Also watch out the the metal base, it will try to remove your fingers at every opportunity.

[matrixresonator]

Not in English but this video will give you an idea.

Where he shows lifting the seal over with the tool, that’s where the rinse aid helps. The video doesn’t show it, but it needs lifting over the other pin the same way.

Bosch / Siemens Geschirrspüler Fehler E15 – Pumpentopfdichtung tauschen – YouTube

[ukwg]

I saw a video the other day that showed both the trimming of the tabs and the feeding/teasing/forcing/cursing of the gasket around the sump. Is there a reason it’s done this way? I’m not a Bosch / Appliance engineer so I have no idea but just from looking it seems that it would be easier to remove the bottom of the machine and then seperate the sump and one should in theory be free to lay in the new gasket? Are people installing it from inside the machine and teasing it around it avoid having to strip down the rest of the machine or is there a reason that removing the sump altogether would be a bad idea?

[matrixresonator]

If you buy a genuine seal, the instructions show to fit it from inside, but that could be for the benefit of the consumer rather than engineers.

[Author]

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