Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

[sucksbie]

Hey there,

I was looking at an old cooker (Tricity Bendix SB421, mid 90s) in the hope of fixing a loose grill dial. When I took the thermostat out, I took off the case though I also accidentally dropped it in doing this! In any case, I got a nut placed on the spindle which cured the problem.

The only thing is, it no longer works! When turned to all positions, no electricy is passing through (if that makes any sense). Apart from the obvious elements not heating up and no pilot light, the continuity tester shows this.

But looking inside at the bimetallic strip and the cam mechanism that’s attached to the dial spindle, I can’t figure out how it ever worked. The “cam” and dial adjusts the distance from the copper strip which is connected to Line, to the section conencted to Load A. This section appears to have a safety thermal overload cutout along with a bimetallic strip.

The part number is 33ER3MHT, made by Diamond H controls. They no longer make this part.

What I can’t get is that at no point does the Line copper strip come close to connecting with the Load A section. And as the grill setting is turned to full power, the distance between Load A and Line is even greater!

I’m not sure if I had damaged the part in a particular way or if something has fallen out etc but everything I’ve inspected appears to be fully intact and the dial and cam are turning normally. The Load B switch works properly and makes contact only when the dial is turned to the “both elements” part.

As replacement parts appear to have pinouts and the details from Diamond H are limited to say the least (the schematics are not drawn like any others I’ve worked with either from the US or UK symbols) can anyone tell me what I’m missing here?

I’ll post photographs if needed though it’ll take some time to get access to it again and it’s also hard to take a photograph of the moving parts inside the energy regulator.

[electrofix]

Re: Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

the replacement part differs in looks but works ok the main difference is the wiring codes “live” on old part “L1” on new etc
can get cross ref list for fitting purposes

Dave

[sucksbie]

Re: Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

Ah that’s great to know, will save me the expense of buying and paying for delivery on a useless part.

Aside from the usual wiring precautions and safety measures, is there anything in particular that needs to be done with a new thermostat to get it working? i.e. calibration, adjustment etc.

The internet tells me :rolls: that 43ER101C1 is the swap-in replacement but of course it’s not a great source of information. Still, more than Diamond H themselves offer in details…

Would you have any idea on what’s gone wrong with the old part btw? It’s as if I’m missing out on something very obvious.

[electrofix]

Re: Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

you need to understand how these parts work to figure out whats wrong

1 you turn the knob on say 90 degrees
2 the ring comes on but also a small heater inside the switch that warms up a bi-metal strip
3 this strip bends until it meets the cam that was turned by the knob
4 when the strip presses against the cam it turns off the main contact
5 the ring switches off and so does the heater
6 as the heater cools the pressure against the cam relaxes and the main switch closes again turning on the ring and the heater
7 the process continues

if you turn the knob half way the ring is on 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time approx turn it higher and its more turn it lower and its less

hope this helps

Dave

[sucksbie]

Re: Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

This is the thing, the cam has a copper contact resting on it and this copper bar moves closer or furtherto the bimetallic strip and heater above it (as you move the dial). But at no point does the strip (which is connected to line) ever come next or near to connecting to the bar above it. In other words, there’s no way for electricity to flow from the bar resting on the cam to the “Load A” assembly above. There is only continuity between the “Line” and “Load A” terminals when I bend the bimetallic strip with my finger to force it to make contact with the copper strip resting on the cam.

Thanks for the description anyway! It seems strange that the part does the opposite of what you say, in that it will only switch on when the bimetallic strip makes contact with the strip resting on the cam. What you said is how I figured energy regulators in general should work, but there you go.

I’m figuring one of the moveable parts has fallen out or somesuch so either way, the part is a write-off. Is that 43ER101C1 part a swap in replacement, ignoring the changed names for the contacts, for the 33ER3MHT like what the online parts shops tell me? I may email Diamond H too, assuming they still have their factory in Coventry…

Thanks again dave.

[electrofix]

Re: Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

the copper contact is just the switch activator work like a microswitch
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miniature_ … ion_switch

i would ignor Diamond H

order switch and if it fits mechanically we can sort out connections

Dave

[sucksbie]

Re: Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

I finally have my hands on the new regulator!

I now see what you mean by the “microswitch” comparison. In the old one, where the “line” blade connector enters the housing to form this flexible copper strip, it never ever makes contact with the “load” bimetallic strip assembly and contacts. The new one does move and is in contact whenever the dial is turned away from “off”.

Now, for the connections. The labelling of the blade connectors is confusing at best, as is the wiring diagram/schematic and I’m not unfamiliar with schematics either. Only the signal contact is obvious to me. By the push to make/break hybrid nature of it, I cannot work out continuities between contacts unless I can supply electricity to heat the damn bimetallic strip in the first place! A bit of a catch-22.

For what it’s worth, here’s the wiring diagrams in one PDF: http://www.diamond-h-controls.com/image … ators1.pdf

I have one of the 43ER series energy regulators.

[electrofix]

Re: Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

from schematic

live is P1 old unit prob line
neutral is 4 old one prob neut

s1 and s2 are the pilot light only if you cooker has on to say when ring switched on. on old uniot will be labled pilot. to get it working you will have to add a link wire from live to s1 or s2 from P1 then you pilot goes to the other

2 is load A on old unit when one single element comes on
P2 is load b the second element

hope this helps

Dave

[sucksbie]

Re: Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

So I finally got the chance to wire in the part! Everything went smoothly and the rather unconventional-looking schematic (especially for Load A and B) got me there in the end. Thanks especially for your last post on the equivalents between the old and new energy regulator!

It’s very much appreciated and it means we have a grill in time for Christmas!

[DAR01]

Re: Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

All you need here http://www.timms.biz/tech/43er105b1.php

MIKE
😀 😀 😀

[scrutchley]

Re: Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

The Diamond H Energy reg part number 33ER3MHT is available ex stock from Peerless Gas Controls Ltd 0844 8000052
Peerless as well as being the last Uk manufacturer of Gas Valves for cookers and fires are also the exclusive agent for all Diamond H Controls for the UK and Ireland. Technical information and help about Diamond H parts is also available from Peerless.
http://www.peerlesscontrols.com

Wiring diagrams are also shown on the web by the sister company to Peerless
Tech Control Ltd
http://www.techcontrol.co.uk

Hope this is of help, please also be aware all Diamond H parts supplied by Peerless are genuine parts produced by Diamond H or by Peerless under licence
There are many inferior copy parts on the market many of Chinese origin being passed off as original parts.

[bmck]

Re: Electric Grill Thermostat/Energy Regulator

Hey Dave
I just wanted to say Thank you for this post!
I bought a replacement dual-control unit for my Zce7700x, and it came this morning. Unfortunately, none of the terminal markings were the same as those on my 1999 cooker. The leaflet which came with it referred to A,B & C terminals? There are no such markings on the part, so I was totally lost.
After many hours of searching the web, I found this single post which solved my problem!! A simple explanation of old markings -> new markings.
Thank you so much!

electrofix wrote:from schematic

live is P1 old unit prob line
neutral is 4 old one prob neut

s1 and s2 are the pilot light only if you cooker has on to say when ring switched on. on old uniot will be labled pilot. to get it working you will have to add a link wire from live to s1 or s2 from P1 then you pilot goes to the other

2 is load A on old unit when one single element comes on
P2 is load b the second element

hope this helps

Dave

[Author]

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