FAULT – Indesit ID60E Electric Cooker Hob completely not working …

[UKWGoodsy]

Hello
I am an electronics technician, but I do not do Electric Repairs and I have this cooker sometimes the ‘whole’ hob stops working and Electronic Timer also disappear.

Both ovens work fine.

I did have this problem sometime ago and I taken it out and lifted top hob to check wiring, which were all OK. I also checked all TOCs and all fine!

Timer is not connected with hob, as it does not need to.

In my view it could be to do with one of the TOCs intermittently not working and switching Hob off if it believes it is too hot and it is not.

After 30-45 minutes all is fine again!

I tried to find its diagram, could not find it as this is NOT any more Italian, but US owned now and they keep all info tight to their chest!

Any one expert on cookers and especially this one, can actually help?

I have instructed our family NOT to use top Grill/Oven to see if it has to do with top heat as the hob does not have ‘any’ insulation in between hob and top oven – very strange indeed!

If not wrong it is not very old – maybe 5 years?
My last one lasted 20 years!

Thank you for your time.

PS it seems this time I have both oven lights on – but ovens are off, no timer, hob not working. If using oven they are fine!

[UKWGoodsy]

Updated… now it has been with:

– Both oven lights on
– no timer
– NONE of the top plates work at all – no light too
– Both ovens do work fine and always worked fine
– TOCs are fine as oven works and both fans work
– disconnected top hob elements – same!
– I have not managed to find a diagram I could follow yet
– grandson needs food! ;p]
– re- opened this morning, no obvious problems, checked continuity on Mains inputs throughout and also TOPs

I just got no idea, it is not my field

Anyone?
Should I register as business -as I am one – but in lockdown – forced to close as non essential!

Thanks
M

[electrofix]

have you checked the terminal block ?

Dave

[UKWGoodsy]

electrofix wrote:have you checked the terminal block ?

Dave

Hi Dave – yes twice – that was my first thought too – really nice tight connections, but one thing I noticed since purchased it [~5-6 years ago] the block coming slightly off – even with the 2 screws on!

Then yesterday I re-opened the back cover and noticed [after] while putting back cover on – as it started to work – the block was forcibly pushing over the back main oven chamber – on the insulation!

mmm a thought I always had – THAT might be a problem, but no scorching marks – nothing obvious and never tripped Consumer Unit.

Now it is working again, but next time it happens I will [disconnect mains!] take the block off and insulate it internally and it might works! Then re-screw it on and leave it a bit off the back cover.

If anyone can get a wiring diagram, it will make my day – thanks for the valuable input.

[electrofix]

its really odd the whole hob goes off

neutral and lives are fed seperatly from the block, no cutouts
so i could see one or two rings going off but the whole lot is almost impossible

Dave

[UKWGoodsy]

I totally agree, that is why I do not understand it and in my view that is why this cooker has disappeared from market!

If anyone can find a diagram … that will help to solve this mystery… it possibly have wrong wiring somewhere from factory.

[electrofix]

there are 2 daigrams depending on serial number would need all the rest of the numbers off the unit to see if i can find correct one

Dave

[UKWGoodsy]

Please Check DM

Thank you

ID60E2(W) S
S/N 302017504 25812300000

[electrofix]

[electrofix]

you may be able to see why it makes no sense

left ring on diagram fed live 3
2nd fed live 2
3rd and 4th fed off live 1

so if live was at fault it would only affect 1 or 2 rings

neutral well dont know you will have to check it

Dave

[UKWGoodsy]

The plates are connected in pairs, therefore it would certainly affect 2 of them.
mmm

Would be nice to see full connections or full connections of plates + cooker thermostat at least – if possible.

Thanks again to take your time for me.

[UKWGoodsy]

I believe I found the problem!

Although I did check the external connection block before and saw nothing strange, this time I found the N cable slightly melted – just a bit and the N LINK slightly scorched!

I went to check the ID60EWS connection block and ‘reminded’ me that this cooker had link pins you take off [just the L1, L2, L3 two pins] when you have a 3 phase connection – i.e. this cooker can be converted to a 3 phase.

Now, the connector also has ‘strangely’ a N link pin which you DO NOT remove when in 3 phase!

This BLOODY pin is actually NOT connected properly – that is why I had this sporadic problem and it made me think it is to do with the connection block when [now remembered] last night I put cooker back onto the wall – after it was working when I disconnected right side plates … thinking I found the problem.

i.e. that BLOODY connector ‘is’ the problem

The original LINK PIN was connected the other way around – one side is about 10mm shorter – the shorter side must go WITH the N cable and not the other way around.
So there was a connection, but just barely – good job I did connect cables very tightly from when bought.

SOLVED … I sincerely hope – as I thought it was to do with L or N not properly connected as I did all resistance checks = all fine twice!

PS I hope this helps another family and technicians – this felt nice, since 1990s when I used to do Airport radio racks – the military way using military grade huge connectors and racks – loads of internal wiring and even telephonic central connections – you know those 3m high racks with loads of multi-connections for 100 ‘pairs’ each connection?

[UKWGoodsy]

1. Can anyone supply FULL circuitry via DM?

2. How do I change Post Title to [SOLVED] ?

[electrofix]

glad you sorted it

Dave

[Author]

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