Fisher and Paykel dishwasher dead

[mclinch]

Problem with a Fisher & Paykel DD60DH17 double drawer dishwasher if you can help? I think it’s 10 years old or so – maybe a bit more.
It packed up and the top drawer LEDs indicated fault code E4. Bottom drawer indicated fault U4.
E4 means heater element fault
U4 means the bottom drawer won’t function due to a fault in the other drawer.
Took out the top drawer and got to the heater plate which looked clean as a whistle. Disconnected the 7 pin connector and tested the resistances. The main large element (pins 1&2 starting from the left tested as 6 Ohms. Then there’s a smaller element in the middle that leads to pins 4 & 5 on the connectors and that read 10 Ohms. That all seemed reasonable.
Then I found a youtube video that said how to test from the control panel inside the front panel of the top drawer so I disconnected the 7 pin connector from the control board and tested from there. It says to read the pins from right to left – so I did. It said testing temperature sensor, measure between pins 1 & 2 and I should get about 10 K Ohms – note the K Ohms. I got 10.68 so near enough. Then testing dropper resistor (whatever that is??) between pins 4 & 5 the video said I should get about 24 Ohms – I got 97.4. Then testing Element track – video said I should get 25 Ohms and I got 52.5. Bear in mind the video was a USA video so for a 110V model and this is a UK model so 220v which might explain some discrepancies, these results all seem OK in my limited experience. So I have a feeling it’s not the heat plate element and don’t want to spend £113 on a new one without being sure.
But – the plot thickens. Between testing the actual plate element and the second round of tests from the panel, I put it all back together to keep the kitchen tidy then watched the video and prepared for testing from the front. After I reassembled everything the first time, I took the front panel off and found several little wires burned badly – these wires feed the various valves or servos that power the salt and rinse aid dispensers and their LED. 2 were burned through and the other 4 or so were hanging by a thread so I left them for the night to return again with some repair stuff – refitting the front panel for neatness. I did turn the machine on and off several times before I left just to check it hadn’t miraculously fixed itself – no change, the same fault lights.
I returned tonight and before anything else, turned it on at the wall switch and there was a small pop that sounded like it came from the back of the machine – but I can’t be sure. The machine then showed no lights at all. But I checked the power sockets and plug and all was OK and there is a very faint ticking noise coming from the rear of the machine – very faint. But this indicates power is getting to the machine from the mains. I then turned it off, unplugged it and did the resistance tests at the control board connectors as described above.
Now I’m stumped and have reassembled it for neatness but am out of ideas. Research seems to indicate there is no fuse or breaker in the machine and I’m not sure if the power goes in and straight to the control board or if there is a weak / breaking point in between. A control board here is about £200 so don’t want to but that either if that’s unlikely to be the issue.
Any ideas please?
Thanks
Mark

[electrofix]

I would take out the lower draw and check where the power comes in and is distributed to both draws.

its under a plastic cover on the floor of the chassis at the rear. From memory it goes through a board so look for board damage and check power is getting to each unit

Dave

[Author]

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