Help – Flashing tap light on NEFF S51E50X3GB/46

[BarryD]

Yes it looks like it has a display to the left of the water LED with 3 digits labelled h:mm, and another 2 digits to the right of the water LED. I guess the errors would appear in the left display. Neither of these ever shows any number or code. I would have expected these to all illminate during startup as part of its self test.

It also looks like the various buttons all have an associated LED – again they never illuminate.

In order to get any further I need to pull the unit out – it turns out this is not easy as the kickboard fits very snugly all round, and one end can’t come out because of the skirting board fitted after the kitchen units, while the other end can’t come out as another section of kick board at right angles would have to come out first.

I’m going to get hold of a glass suction lifter to see if I can pull the 2nd section off without damaging anything which would then give access to the section I need to remove under the dishwasher.

I will reply again in a few days if all goes well.

Thanks for your help so far,

Barry

[BarryD]

Well, I got the machine out and had a look around. No water in the base, but I did notice some charring on the power module case.

I got that out eventually and found the the PCB has an area with a burnt look about it and smoke damage on some components. So it’s a pretty good bet that has to be fixed as the first thing, and then hope that that fault hasn’t damaged anything else.

Barry

[electrofix]

soot around the high voltage components is normal and not a problem

if the case is melted well that could be a problem

Dave

[BarryD]

In case anyone else has the same problem, getting a new power module did sort the problem out and it doesn’t look like anything else was damaged when the board went pop.

With the aid of the new board I did fix the old board eventually – at least 2 large capaictors, and a transistor had blown. I also replaced an IC in the main damaged area. However the main problem is a melted track under one of the capacitors which from the track size looks like it was designed to act as a fuse.

The board works again with the track bridged with thin wire, but I suspect it would not be safe to use since it will not longer be acting as a fuse of the right value. I’ll put the old board away in the loft just in case the machine fails again it could come in handy for fault finding.

Barry

[Neffmike]

Tap flashing fixed – my pump heater had failed which burnt out tracks the components on the main board, the high voltage had jumped across onto the grey wires and damage the main board. Repaired all the burn out resistors but no luck. Checked the front control panel and a diode had exploded. Ordered new front control panel and main board. Flashing red tap – I checked float switch and wiring. Checked flow wheel and reed switch clicking. No voltage to Aqualock hose.
Tap still flashing – checked inlet filter at tap ok, checked resistance of Aqualock which was about 3k ( this ok because it works In the end)
Went right back to basics and traced all the wires including the door switch expecting it to be a reed switch – it’s not ! It’s massively over engineered, It’s a tiny circuit board about 12mm wide with a Hall effect chip on it ! – guess what it’s connected to the blown components on the main board. Ordered new door sensor which fixed the Flashing tap – the machine started to work

[Author]

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