Hisense washer dryer inlet solenoid – WDBL1014V

[PeteBest]

Hi All,

I’m having real problems tracking down a part for my Hisense washer dryer, just over one year old and I’ve started getting F17 errors on dryer cycles. Cleaned out the condensor and still getting the error. On further inspection no water is going into the chamber and the coil on the top of that solenoid is getting real hot, so suspecting that as the dead part.

The inlet is a 3-way type, that looks very similar to the one available at https://spares2repair.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29147_29395_29593_31354&products_id=293431 but my sub-model isn’t listed and it’s a bit of a expensive gamble if that part isn’t the right one

If I continue to have no luck in replacing the whole inlet assembly, can someone advise if I can just replace the coil (assuming I can find a part number after removing it) Looks like parts for hisense stuff is really hard to come by, even the “official” spare parts supplier said they can’t supply this item

Will try linking a pic of the inlet solenoids and kick-plate (quota is full for standard usergroup to directly upload anything here), any help would be appreciated!

Pete

[don]

Give our shop a try they should be able to help, send an email to spares@ukwhitegoods.co.uk. Don’t forget the all important model and serial number.

Don

[PeteBest]

Thanks for the uber-quick reply Don, email sent. Fingers crossed they have more luck than some other stores

Pete

[tubafan]

Are you sure it only has a 12 month warranty as some sites I looked at say it is 24 months – eg – AO.com

[Newsplash]

Peter

Did you ever get this error resolved ?

We have the exact same machine eg Hisense WDBL 1014 VT washer dryer .

Ours displays F17 exactly 40 mins into the program then stops . I noticed that the drum is cold as are the cloths so I’m assuming that it never got up to temperature .

We had a local independent engineer clean out the condenser and he told my wife he replaced the inlet valve you describe but the machine is still faulty.
Ill seeif I can get the part number for you .

[PeteBest]

Hi,

Yes, the ukwhitegoods people found the part number and added it to their store here – https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/k191…er-water-valve

Replacing this did solve my issue but your symptoms are different from mine, based on your description and my limited knowledge I wouldn’t have thought it was this valve causing your issue. Mine was getting the clothes boiling hot but all steamy. I disconnected the feed from the triple valve to the condenser and there wasn’t any water being fed into the condenser during the drying cycle. If there’s no temperature at all I wouldn’t be suspecting the condenser part of the drying process, probably more likely to be the heater element/thermostatic trip

I’m normally better with taking lots of photos, but doesn’t look like I took too many of this, link to imgur below. First image is of the right hand side of the machine, I can’t remember if they’ve got the reset button, but in between where the spade connectors go into the heating element there may be a small button, pushing this resets it if it’s reached a thermal cut off. Should be a nice audible click if it had tripped and needed to be reset

Problem is that this would almost certainly have been the first thing your repair guy should have checked for.

2nd picture is after I’ve removed the shroud and heating element/fan, so you can get to the condenser, I plonked the pipe into a bottle to see if it actually drew water like it should (but if you’re not heating I suspect it wouldn’t bother drawing water)

https://imgur.com/a/DMQKJj3

Best of luck! I’ve pretty much given up with mine. If it’s not one thing it’s another, so I just use it as a washer now. Personally believe these washer/dryers to have very large design flaws that will cause this sort of issue continually

Pete

[Newsplash]

Peter

Thank you so much for your very extensive reply .

I will certainly be following up your advice tonight and testing the heater element etc as you describe.

For the record, within a year of purchasing this machine around the end of 2019 just before the Covid restrictions we had a similar fault and had it repaired under warranty . The “engineers” came on numerous occasions and appeared to swap components willy nilly including the control panel . On one of these visits they actually broke the front panel .

It has worked until now then this issue re emerged . To give the local independent guy credit he came twice and change a few bits but threw in the towel .
I considered using the company Hisense provides links to but having read the small print a visit appeared to cost circa £200 with no guarantee of solving the problem unless you paid more for parts .Plus you would be tied to some form of insurance costing nearly £10 per month. At that rate you may as well buy a new machine.

I will keep you posted on how I get on

Thanks you so much for your help.

Ron

[Newsplash]

Hisense WDBL1014V Washer-dryer Error Code 17 solved

Peter

My wife and I are thrilled thanks to you and your post I have managed to fix it.
The sensor that you mentioned had tripped and gone open circuit .

I reset the sensor and run the dryer for half an hour and it all seems ok
Later today will will run it for longer but I’m sure it will be ok

Thanks also for the link to the photos in particular how to access the condenser to remove the fluff .

I owe you a couple of pints so if ever you are near Canterbury, Folkestone or Dover let me know.

Regards

[andyjawa]

“cost circa £200 with no guarantee of solving the problem unless you paid more for parts” WHAT! 200 quid plus cost of any parts, that is a rip off even by this trade`s standards. Hisense spares are by the way expensive as are TCL spares and the Chinese made free standing washer dryer sold as a Siemens.
Washer dryers, in general, and used as a washer dryer are notorious for drying problems so if it is not one thing, next it is another. So we`ll have a look at the symptons / causes and possible cures.
1) clothes come out hot and steamy and when they cool down just ending up warm and soggy. Could be a solenoid valve problem – the dryer`s water valve`s coil usually just goes open circuit i.e. a break in its coil. This can happen at anytime or may never be a problem ever. If goes o/circuit the machine will not take in cold water to condense the steam ( the fan and heating element are obviously working) in the plastic condenser chamber in other words the fan is blowing steam all the time to either a fault code stopping the machine or you find out the problem at the end. Which leads us on to problem 2) hot and steamy clothes yet again but for another reason: a condenser blockage which is very common on well used machines. This is a plastic chamber though some use a tank moulding as the condenser (e.g. Hoover and Candy) which get blocked up with lint – soggy fluff – which stops the hot air from circulating = same outcome as 1 above = you have to physically dismantle the fan blower manifold to get at the condenser. Also note that on some machines where the bottom of the condenser attaches to the tank there can be a metal mesh screen which are well known trouble spots. 3) no heat at all: can be duff a heater – they usually go open circuit but not always, you can get the affect of still working but working poorly though the latter is not that common***, can be an over load stat clicked out due to overheating due too large a load or the fan has stopped err..fanning or due to a blockage such as point 2. 4) a temperature cycling stat has failed or the wire/s leading to it – not overly common that one.
*** The Zanussi Electrolux blank digital display no go problem that gives you the impression the digital display (actually the main board) is at fault when it uaually isn`t!. One day the display works next day it doesn`t and so the machine is a no go. This one is usually very common and concerns the dryer element going to earth. Can happen if the dryer function is used a lot or only twice a year and there is a very good chance that the house trip might not ping off. There are a possible two culprits a) the dryer element b) the over load stat ( the small stat with a reset button) to earth or both. If you do not have a megger tester so after turning the power off and pulling out the machine, removal of the work top metal plate top. If you trace the heater wires usually 2 black wires and 2 white wires from the rear of the element so 2 white wires go to a connector block near the water valve – disconnect that c/block and the double black wires go to the over load stat so disconnect that too. Then turn on the power to machine, set to any programme, suggest spin, and the display should come back to life. If not, power off and disconnect the single white wire off the o/load stat and try again, if now ok you`ll either need the dryer element only or / and the o/load stat. I used to change both watch you don`t lose the rubber o ring seal on the o/load stat! All you then have to do is decide to leave as is with the wires disconnected and use as a washing machine only or buy the required heater or o/load or preferably both. I should think Zanussi and Co have done a roaring trade in pcboard sales at 160 quid a shot which will not cure the problem and which cannot be returned either so this is all worth knowing. Other machines can suffer the same fate too.

[Author]

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