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Hi all,
In have these older model Hoover 9 kgs washing DXOA 49C3/1-80 that has been a nightmare right from the beginning! It literally walks around the room when spinning with cloths in it. This could be at pretty much any RPM, but more excessive from 800 and up.
Back story:
We have had this washing machine since 2017 in it’s original packaging since 2018, but we did ended up not using because the old one got fixed and decided to keep this one as well.
Back in August 2023 the old one packed in completely so we decided to open unwrap Hoover DXOA 49C3/1-80 from it’s original packaging and finally use it.
NOTE: It has been moved around a couple of times as we have moved twice since it’s original purchase.When I removed the transit bolts/screws I noticed two of them slightly bent, but didn’t think much of it at the time.
….anyways, as the subject states, the bloody thing is a nightmare!!! It washes okay, no leaks, but the wobble on the drum is out of this world!! See videos below.
https://youtube.com/shorts/X3NC3pnLF…pI9J5IcqRawDVr
https://youtube.com/shorts/Krjsdva2g…Q2uhHltfXRJvUc
https://youtube.com/shorts/wvC4J_I3v…uIWyBdjYKnQk1D
https://youtube.com/shorts/3TyuhU7eH…qNrSpH63SwlfldTrying to fix the issue, what I have done so far:
– I made sure it is placed on solid floor;
– I made sure the machine is level and not rocking, all 4 nuts done up;
– I have replaced the springs and shock absorbers;
– I have checked the spindle and belt, all looks good;
– I have checked the concrete slab on top in order to make sure it is done up tightly;
– I have gently turned the drum, listened for any loose parts inside, i.e. broken spider, all quiet there.What am I missing here??!!
Thank you in advance for any advise!!
you have missed nothing as far as i can see
thats an out of balance load and some loads will do that. have you tried putting more washing in ?Dave
Hi Dave,
it does it with any type of load. It seems that the inner drum has a lot of play when pushed around by hand. I plan on taking the drum out completely and inspect the drum shaft.
There isn’t anything else I can think of that can cause this aggressive wobble.
Adi
well you can forget that it will be a sealed drum assembly and cannot be taken apart
and a little bit of play in the drum might make a noise but it wont make it bounce
Dave
You haven`t noticed any polystrenne foating about under the machine or on the inside of the chassis side panels when you changed the damper legs?
Have a look at the front weight too – common cause of problems
“slightly bent transit bolts” not normally a problem BUT a possible tank`s damper plastic moulded brackets to hair line crack is a thought though that is rare.
With the lid removed if you press down hard on the top concrete weight and then release the pressure immediately should cause the whole tank unit to rise fairly slowly or rather if it springs back up and is all bouncy something would be wrong there – there should be a plastic pin on each of the the dampers at the top and a corresponding 2 at the bottom, so 4 in total.
Shouldn`t be a chassis fault. So that leaves a fault with the sealed tank which is unusual. UNLESS
“It seems that the inner drum has a lot of play when pushed around by hand.” do you mean the inner drum ONLY has a lot of play relative to the tank? Not to be confused with the drum moves and so the tank unit moves a lot too. The Ist senario is a fault with the drum/spider/bearing housing the 2nd would be something to do with suspension / damper legs though front to back movement is normal as is a bit of resistace movement to the left or right. What was the part number of the dampers you changed please? Did the new dampers come with the lower plastic brackets that is screwed to the chassis also note from memory there are several sets of chassis holes so presume u marked which went where otherwise you could`ve ended up with the whole plot being on the squew either leaning too far back, too far forward or too far on the twist relative to the top springs setting in other words the plot has to sit straight down and inline – i`ve had that one before on a new machine where the bottom dampers were inline and just dandy but the top springs were misset on the wrong pair of tank holes. Above all you don`t normally get worn out or faulty dampers in 7 months, 7 years yes but not in 7 months.
What to look for with these damper legs just for interest: If you kept the old dampers the piston top part of the leg if you were to pull it out from the bottom tube bit (not recommended that you do that) is just 2 or 3 rows of greased felt on the piston and when this gets worn out instead of being able to compress both parts with a fair amount of resistance and by also pulling the faulty/worn out ones will just, more or less, drop down unassisted and the piston part will flap about within the tube part plus there is usually a load of deposits of felt around too having been spat out of the tube and it is plainly obvious it is either ok or nuked.Video 1 shows that the drum is running in line with the door seal which is connected to the tank so no buckled bicycle wheel type of affair.
Video 2 ditto but an awful dinn
Video 3
Video 4 God Almighty!Beginning to think that is more front weight problem least on vid 4 with the noise
Other than that a cracked bearing tube or cracked plastic around the bearing tube in the tank which would or a least could give you the senario 1
Do not, despite the tank bouncing up and down that it is the actual suspension legs since you changed them nor are misset either.Hey guys,
A big thank you to all of your input!
Just to clear a few things up, the machine has had this issue from day one and it was not caused over the 7 months period.
I live on my own, I do 1-2 cycles a week, so no heavy use of the machine.I still believe something was damaged in transit, but still trying to figure out what.
I am starting to believe that it is something to do with the front weight balance as it is the only thing I have to addressed yet.Another note is that when it starts turning the laundry, the inner drum seems to be bouncing all over the place in an elliptical motion.
I have tried to make a video when it spins at 1400 RPM, however, I have deemed it unsafe and had to lean on it in, otherwise I could see the whole thing disintegrating itself.
Will try post some more videos.
THANK YOU AGAIN!!
Conducting further investigations based on your feedback.
Top concrete weight and door removed.
I found this spring tensioner off the seal. See video:
https://youtube.com/shorts/NkZVMlW7RrU?si=f68YtEzlb1tyVYOS
Video 3 Not a sealed tank problem. The top weight being moved by hand going front to back is normal but Noticed 2 things 1) difficult to see but I think you have the top springs miss set too far back on the top chassis rail. And what is worse the top spring is going into the front hanging point rather than the rear one least the soap box side. Judging by the way the rear of the concrete weight tappers relative to the chassis back rail the tank is also on the twist. As per above yesterday 21st at 11.03am- i`ve had that one before on a new machine where the bottom dampers were inline and just dandy but the top springs were misset on the wrong pair of tank holes and or on the wrong chassis rail 1 of 2 positions..You have to get this right otherwise being on I`m sure the twist the tanks`s front weight is going to hit the chassis hence your noise or at least throw the tank assembly out of line.
To test where the top springs go both the l/h/side and r/h/s of the tank you have to copy each other both where the springs sit on the one of the 2 positions on the top chassis rail AND the 2 choices on the tank`s spring hanging points.Suggest you go for the settings nearest the front of the machine
There`s a hard way to do it and an easier way to do this. Turn the power off1st! Then remove the top weight`s 3 bolts using an extension bar ratchet and socket 13mm from memory lift off the weight away from the machine and do not drop it!!! put it somewhere previously figured a safe place. mark the the bolts and mark the concrete weight with a marker pen, 1,2 and 3. Removing the weight makes your life easier. Get a pile of books ready and build a tower of large books under the motor to raise the tank up about 3″or 4″ higher this will allow you to disconnect each spring from the chassis rail NOTE there should be a piece of plastic that acts as a bearing for the spring so you might have to repostion in its new location on the chassis to then reset them in the corresponding 1) correct corresponding tank`s hole spring hanging point as necessary 2) do exactly the same position/s for the other spring. Important to get this right everything has to be equal otherwise it`ll be a cock-up. Refit the top weight making sure the 3 bolts are done up well (there`s no torque settings published) You should end up with a gap between the rear rectangle black foam that is glued to the rear rail area. If you used the the same holes as the factory used when refitting the bottom dampers everything should now be inline and the thing should work without sounding like a traction engine with a dodgy flywheel bearing!!I have replaced the springs exactly as they were fit by the factory. I thought they looked a bit weird, but though…what do I know.
You should find it ok now. The other noise in the background is the motor, that`ll be just annoying, loads make that noise and that does not mean impending gloom and doom.
The door seal ref video 1 you`ll need to put right suggest that you get one of those old coat hangers cut it, bend it straight, bend one end into loop to act as a handle and the other end put a small bend shape. Use the small bend to carefully get under the wire where it has started to peel off the tank and re-seat it with help from other hand.
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